Colorado B.S. Thread

Technical Safety Bulletins always go to everyone at same time, doesn't mean info made it to everyone at dealership yet.

 

Has anyone here replaced steering rack lately? I have a safari rack and it only lasted 2 years. Granted I was pretty tough on it. I need a new one and plan just to get an OEM. Anyone have experience with another that they are confident in and happy with price? TIA

 

Go way back in my build thread and read about AAE/Safari racks. They're new manufactured units and several members including myself had horrible luck with them. Surprised you got two years out of it.

Best way to go is a rebuilt OEM unit, unless you want to pay for a new OEM. I'm currently running a rack doctor, but would also look into CVJ in denver. Hope you have an OEM rack still to use as a core.

 

New lights, bumper, RAT skid and winch on the 99. Also new suspension last week. Cant wait for the weekend to hit some dirt.

 

Good lookin' rigs there, bud

 

So I'm noob at off-roading with 4 wheels under me. Going up Mt. Princeton Rd last weekend I went into 4-lo when I creeped through a spot and left it in there since I wasn't going very fast anyway and I don't have to slip my clutch pretty much ever in 4-lo. A bit later I came up on a switchback and the front end did the binding thing when I turned sharply to come around the tight switchback.

Would it potentially cause less damage to the differentials if I stopped and went 4-hi? It was moderately loose and I don't think I would've been able to creep up in 2-hi due to the incline without carrying any significant momentum around the switchback corner which in a truck sounds sketchy (compared to my dirt bike anyway). The road was moderately loose but with some exposed rock I don't think the outside wheel was slipping as much as it should, causing the binding I felt.

Should I worry about the binding in those situations?

 

No, not at all. Stay in 4-lo. The "wheel walk" or side to side tug is normal in an open diff on a tight corner. Guys do it all the time in Moab on the slick rock, not a problem.

 

Cool beans I figured it wasn't a big deal (and if it broke it'd give me an excuse to upgrade...)

 

The damage potential is more likely with larger tires (over 35") and a heavy foot on the gas pedal.
Trying something in 4-hi or 2wd that requires more momentum than the finesse of 4-lo will actually break things easier too.
Rock offers much more traction than dirt, but much, much less than actual pavement.
4-lo or hi on the asphalt will break something pretty damn quick. Concrete might get a few more turns before shit snaps.
Rocks will wear down and allow slippage... and some species have a naturally slick surface that will be a real eye opener when you slide off it.

 

WICKED!

 

My 78 year old neighbor is outside, standing on the top of a cedar fence, painting the exterior of a kids playhouse. I went out to check the mail and damn near had a heart attack when he teetered back and forth and made a wild grab for the edge of the roof.

 

That's a young mans game. Can you offer him a ladder to use?

 

He's got one, he used it to get up on the fence. And yes, it's tall enough he doesn't need the fence. His wife is out there right now, I think she just chewed his butt.

 

I was wrong, she was pointing out the spots he missed.

http://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news...07-toyota-tundra/ar-BButwMe?li=BBnbfcL#page=1

 

Alright CO peeps, I may be crazy or just have ADD but I need honest feedback no bs.

Pulling a trigger to get a 2014 Taco SuperCharged tomorrow - what concerns should I be worried about with OEM supercharger?

• What is a typical shelf life for a supercharger?
• Any additional maintenance needed?
• when I go test drive the vehicle, what should I be looking for under the hood besides the normal knick knacks?

 

Anyone here running ST MAXX in 255/85/16 AND source them locally? I'm trying to get an idea of whether they are even available locally and if so, whether it's cost effective.

 

Are you getting rid of the 16?


Superchargers need oil changes every 60-100k miles. The technically should last as long as a well maintained engine. As with any moving part, failure could happen at any time or it could last longer then the engine it is mounted to. I would expect a supercharged truck with good oil change history to make it over 250k miles, really more then that though.

If you are not very mechanically inclined, always pay for a inspection by a professional.

 

I heard head gaskets every 100k, due to cylinder #6 blowing the gasket, supposedly aftermarket head studs fix the issue. S/C rotor packs every 75-100k.

For a manual trans they tend to burn clutches if the PO floors it with boost all the time unless the URD beefy clutch is installed.

 

If my buyer pulls through for my 16 than yes I will get rid of it. CARFAX shows the turbocharger was installed at Stevenson Toyota so hopefully some warranty will apply. I will take your advice about the inspection...great idea! Groove is the closest from this truck sale. Are S.C generally oil or water cooled?

Thank you for all the feedback Mr. Fatkid and Banana Nut!

 

Super, not turbo