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HO alternator/Dual Battery/Battery Separator/"Big 3 Upgrade

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by chazjb, Mar 3, 2011.

  1. Apr 19, 2016 at 8:31 PM
    #21
    LogCabins

    LogCabins Well-Known Member

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    Well there you go I guess it can't hurt :notsure: but do you "need" it, who's to say...but the big difference in what @Digiratus said is a Circuit Breaker not an in-line fuse
     
    Digiratus[QUOTED] likes this.
  2. Apr 20, 2016 at 3:12 PM
    #22
    Mikerocosms

    Mikerocosms Well-Known Member

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    Circuit breaker is ok but a slow-blow mega-fuse is a better match to what oem uses (fuse-able links).

    A fused alt wire however you do it via circuit breaker, slow-blow mega-fuse or fuse-able link are there for a purpose. If your alt goes haywire and starts putting out more amps than it should it could really heat up your wire. If your wire gets hot enough it could burn through its own insulation and possibly start a fire. Having a fuse of any of the three sorts above will prevent that.
     
  3. Apr 20, 2016 at 3:19 PM
    #23
    TrickyRicky

    TrickyRicky New Member

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    I was going to put in a 250 amp ANL fuse for a 200 amp alt. What would classify it as a "slow-blow"?
     
  4. Apr 20, 2016 at 3:23 PM
    #24
    Mikerocosms

    Mikerocosms Well-Known Member

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    It is advertised on the fuse makers description. Here is what is found via Oreilly's Auto Parts web page:

    Code:
    Littelfuse - MEGA Fuse
    Line: LIT | Part # MEG250
    [LIST]
    [*]Manufacturer's Defect Warranty
    [*]UPC: 79458016864
    [*]250 Amp
    [*]Amperage (A): 250 Amp
    [/LIST]
    
    
    DETAILED DESCRIPTION
    Aftermarket - 298 Series - MEGA(R) Slo-Blo(R) Automotive Bolt-Down Fuse (Boxed) The MEGA(R) Fuse is designed for high current circuit protection up to 250 amperes with Diffusion Pill Technology. The MEGA(R) Fuse also provides time delay characteristics. Designed and patented by Littelfuse, the MEGA(R) Fuse is ideal for battery and alternator protection application and other heavy gauge cables requiring ultra-high current protection.
    
    

    http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d....oap?ck=Search_N1175_-1_-1&pt=N1175&ppt=C0172
     
  5. Jul 19, 2016 at 8:14 PM
    #25
    smirk

    smirk Well-Known Member

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    I'm interested in your battery tray. I am trying to fab one up, or modify an existing one.. no welder on hand. I was thinking of starting with an existing tray (or similar), and figuring out how to mount it on the fender and make it work. I like what I can see of your setup. Any more info or details? Thanks.
     
  6. Jul 19, 2016 at 8:21 PM
    #26
    Mikerocosms

    Mikerocosms Well-Known Member

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    My tray is factory/stock, but your linked tray should work. It seems to have raised ridges so when you bolt it down the heads of the bolts wont rub on the bottom of the battery. Should be pretty straightforward and no welding necessary. Just watch the tops of those j-bolts so they don't hit the bottom of your hood. Good luck.
     
  7. Jul 19, 2016 at 8:25 PM
    #27
    smirk

    smirk Well-Known Member

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    Sorry I should have specified, @chazjb s the tray for the passenger side battery
     
  8. Jul 19, 2016 at 8:28 PM
    #28
    Mikerocosms

    Mikerocosms Well-Known Member

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    Oh for a side mount like that, I wouldn't trust that particular tray. I would personally look into more of a box type tray.
     

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