northwesttaco's SOLD LT Build w/ 35's and BS

@northwesttaco jist got caught up on your thread and saw that you are planning to use 2" wheel spacers. Any specific reason for that ? You don't actually need any rear spacers technically just because you are going wider in the front and you only need a 1 1/4" spacer to cover the OE studs if you do want to go a bit wider in the rear. You also don't want your rear track width to be wider than the front and although you are getting a +2 kit don't forget that for every little bit you " lift " the front end your tires actually tuck in and narrow the front track width a bit. Long story short version - the truck handles better with the rear track width a bit narrower. I would say to install the entire front kit first, set the ride height then measure your WMS to WMS ( wheel mount surface ) in the front and then compare it to the OE rear width to evaluate.

 

Wow you do have a lot left.
So does the race kit use the same coil over as the non race kit? Looks like people run the same longer lower rod end for both kits

 

To get as close to possible as the front track width. I'm planning to hardly have any pre load on it, cut the fenders to make it look level with the rear. My OCD would go crazy if I didn't (knowing I (practically) gain 2" per side I want to match the rear).

Also because I rub my rear shocks at full stuff so I need some spacer.

 

Make sense, I would just reiterate what I mentioned previously about doing the front first and measuring just to make sure you do not end up wider in the rear.

 

Yeah I will, thanks for the advice! I did order them but not sure if they'll be ready by the time I install it.

 

When you put your straps on make sure to set them about a 1/2" above where the CV binds because the straps stretch a lot even 4 ply's stretch.

I'm not sure but I would think because of the big difference in the LCA position in relation to the axle on the non race that the non race would need a much taller lower rod end. I'm digging for pics and if I find the. I will post for ya'...

 

Perfect, makes sense.

I was looking at this pic of Relentless fabs runner and looks like the same extended lower rod as @dakotasyota has on his non race kit.. Could be bad memory though.

 

Here is a side by side or 4wd vs 2wd CO differences on the non race kit but the same principle would apply with the race kit too.

4wd needs the 2" extended lower rod end to get the spring away from the axle

2wd has the much shorter standard rod end because there are no clearance issues with the axle.

 

Ohh okay that makes sense then

 

Yup that sure does look the same with the extended lower rod end.

 

Does he not have a mid travel setup?

 

I think the LT guys say the +2 is MT where 3.5+ is LT.
Where we are just ext travel up front.

 

Anything w/ stock arms = stock ...yes even with the spacer removed from the CO. Approx 7" travel

Aftermarket arms w/ uniballs = mid travel approx 9" travel

Anything with arms over stock length = long travel, +2 gets you 11" travel 4wd / 12" 2wd with the right CO

Even Jberry agreed with those definitions...

 

I can see it from both ways. Yes with a +2 you aren't getting the most out of IFS, but you are still extending the track width.

This:

 

Sweet thanks for the info guys

 

Im not here to argue with the LT gods of TW. Im just here for Brian's build

 

Jon, do you have commitment issues ?

Avatar - changed

Name - changed

Mid travel thread name - changed weekly

 

Everyone can have their own opinion, just don't bash either way because they are both badass kits and way better than stock

 

I haven't changed the MT thread in weeks, but i was having fun doing it in May.

Avatar changes quite a bit.

Name, yea. I has IG now to support Avid

 

They are.