Trailer brakes help

has anyone wired a brake controller? My instructions say the stop light switch taps in to the wire where voltage is only present when brakes are applied. Everything I find from Toyota says tap in to green wire with white tracer. This has 12v constantly. I am making a 400 mile trip to pick up a new camper and do not want to get up there with a cluster. Any ideas?

 

What year Tacoma and what model brake controller? If it is a newer Tacoma and you have the tow package then there should be a prewired controller connector in your truck. There was in my 2013 DCLB with the tow package. It was in amongst the wiring harness above the emergency brake.

 

15 no factory towing. Controller is a tekonsha

 

Does the Taco have a tow package? If so do you have the Toyota harness that came with the truck? If not you'll need to do some wiring. Common controller wiring is blue= trailer brake, red= brake light switch, black= 12 volt power, white= ground. I have no clue if Toyota is pre wired to the rear if it does not have a tow package, with the package the connection is under the dash on the left hand side and the harness is in the compartment with the jack or in the glove box.

 

What type of hitch do you have and what kind of camper are you picking up. Try calling Tekonsha as they are very helpful with installations. Or just go to a trailer dealer and have them install and let you test it.

 

No tow package. I have wired everything but not sure about the stop switch.

 

On the service prints that I have for a 2012 Tacoma it shows the 12 VDC to the brake lamp switch as Green with a white stripe and coming out of the switch is Lavender going to the brake lamps.

So the Lavender Wire only has 12 VDC when the brake is applied.

It also shows the Lavender wire connected to the brake input on the brake controller.

 

I know it doesn't have the tow package, but look for the brake controller connector above the left side kickpanel anyway - my '06 BASE model without tow package still had the 4 pin brake controller connector, and I used the brake wire from there to signal my brake controller.

 

Thanks a lot.

 

Try to get a trailer hooked up to it and controller tested before you leave.
always a chance of an issue.
Not going to start another thread on your limited towing capacity.
Drive safe....

 

Camper is pop up style @ 2000lbs.

 

Ok so the lavender wire has 12v on it when NO brakes then 0v when brakes are applied

 

The controller needs to see 12 volts + from the brake switch so does the brake lights. The signal must be on the output side of the brake switch check it with a test light or volt meter it has to go on and off with the brake pedal. You will need a 7 pin connector for the rear the the output from the controller (blue wire) needs to be on pin #2. At 2000# you will want brakes. Some one posted that their non tow package has wiring if you can find the connector on yours this will make life a lot easier for you https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NZQIF..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=6VJKRYVYDTYX4SRJSD1B the rear harness is also available.

 

That's not super heavy. I pull a hardside travel trailer that's a little over a ton.

What kind of terrain/traffic will you be towing in? The reason I ask is that trailer brakes on a trailer that light can be considered optional. I wouldn't not have a brake controller, but FYI, last weekend's towing experience was interesting.

I pulled my trailer from Salida where I live to the other side of Molas Pass in SW CO. I went over Monarch (11,300 feet, 2000+ climb/descent), Blue Mesa summit (about 9K, maybe 1000 feet of steep on either side), Cerro Summit (similar to Blue Mesa), and then the pizza of the resistance, Red Mountain Pass. From the town of Ouray to the top of the pass is 13 miles from 7700 feet to 11000. Over 3000 vertical and pretty steep.

Here's the interesting part: my brake/light connector to the trail worked itself loose because of the way I had it layed out on my way home. So I had no trailer brakes most of the way home. I just assumed something was wrong with them (I suspected pads because the drums are a little warpy, and I assume the PO rode his brakes down our long descents like everyone else does). I did the descents (four of them, combined nearly 7000 feet of steep downhill) using engine braking and keeping my speed under control. It can be done.

Now, if you're going to be driving in heavy fast traffic, I probably wouldn't compromise on having the controller working. But if it's a cluster as you say, just drive home carefully and get it going when you can.

But obviously your plan A is to get them working first. Go with that, but I'm saying that if you get there and they don't work, don't blow an O-ring. For a 2000 lb trailer you can do OK without.

 

No the lavender wire has no voltage on it until the brake is applied and then it has 12 VDC.

 

My lavender has 12v. I finally found the tow harnes. It was under the right side of the steering wheel

 

Many states require trailer brakes over 1000# It would be a good ideal to check I don't think he would be going to all this trouble if the camper had no brakes.

 

Good then it's plug and play just connect it to the harness if you buy the proper whip it's as simple as plugging in both ends.

 

No one had the harness so I just made it work.

 

I see now you must have the Hydraulic Brake Booster as it makes a difference. With the hydraulic booster you have to come off the Skid Control ECU Lavender Wire and not the one from the brake pedal.