over head console switches group buy

Using standard 2-LED rockers like the OTRATTW ones (getting them from STV Motorsports off Amazon, though).

Currently looking like I'd have 7 wires assuming I can get switched power and ground in the upper console (or 8 if I need to run a dash-light power feed up the harness); plan is to run 18ga for most, maybe 16 ga for some since they'll only be running enough amps to feed relays, but I'll probably also run a phone mic for my bluetooth HU in the same loom while I've got the trim pulled off. I'd prefer the overheads to dim with the dash if possible, although now I'm wondering how dimmable the backlight LED's may or may not be.

Yah if you run a ground down in total if they are all on off switches you will only have 9 wires.

Catch is I haven't actually bought all the gear that'll be running off these yet and I'm trying to keep all the lines different colors since most of them will end up run through the firewall along with some other wires for a couple additional switches/circuits I'm running from knockouts in the dash as well and I don't want to be chasing wires to remember what's what as I get the outside circuits set up.

If you do like the ones I make you can set the whole set up and mount it then when you add an accessory on you just conect the positive wire to an out going wire and then ground the negative. If you want I can rather make you a loom with different colors and label them for you or I could sell you different colored wires in 16 awg to build your own.

On top of that, I'm now wondering about where I might be able to mount an additional switch (again, OTRATTW size) for engine bay lights. for this one, I've got the lights all put in and wired up, but no switch to power them, and probably won't be using a relay for them since they're all LED and shouldn't draw a full amp all told and it only needs one wire at most through the firewall since there's plenty of spots to ground in the engine bay; thought about putting the switch under the hood, but don't want its backside sticking into the wheel-well and I'm hesitant to punch a hole in one of the crumple-beams along the sides which don't look deep enough anyway.

I have mine mounted on a pressure switch in the engine bay on the inner fender pinch seam and It works fine. That way if you some how accidentally you hit the switch when getting out you don't have the lights on all day. Not that is a huge draw but still.

Finally, is it safe to run a loom down the A-pillar without interfering with the airbag? I've got an Access cab (no permanent B-pillar), so the alternative is to go to the Y-pillar, which is possible but a little more annoying.

Yes as far as I know there is no air bags in the pillar so you can run it right down that just fine.

 

I love mine sitting in my truck. Cannot wait to get it all wired up and lit up at night!

 

Thanks again Jake!

 

No problem! Hope you like it! You can allways get me some more business for more of these!!

 

I might know a few firefighters that would like this idea. Would be a great idea for this market with all those lights!

 

I just transferred my 6 switch panel over to my overhead console and noticed the fitment isn't too great at the moment. As in the switch panel fits a bit loose so it sort of hangs out of the cutout with a bit of an uneven gap on either side. I haven't plugged in my switchback harness yet, so not sure if that will help but wondering if anyone else had an issue with this?

@3378jakesr5

I was thinking about epoxying it in from the back though if all else fails.

 

Hmm I have not had that happen yet. Did you by any chance put the panel in there and try to get it out before this one? You can epoxy it or maybe some double sticky tape to fill the distance. If you use epoxy I recommend something of a puddy like jb weld. That way it does not run into the switches.

 

So I've decided to first try and bend the plastic retention tabs of my switch holder panel out more since they may have been possibly bent a little coming out of their previous panel setup. Then if that doesn't work I'm going to epoxy it in place. I've got a bunch of plastic epoxy on hand from previous projects.

I'm more posting this just so people don't get the wrong idea and think there is an issue, since it is MOST LIKELY my switch insert tabs that have been mangled up by my own doing.

The console itself is awesome!

 

I figured out which wires on the temp/compass harness are which (at least as far as power, ground and dash-lights), but either I've got some loose connections, or the circuit isn't set up for enough juice to run all the lights in the switches I put in (got a little flicker in the switches at first, then nothing). Looks like I've gotta run a few more wires up my A-pillar. I did find some 4-conductor shielded cable that's going to make part of that easier, though (I've got my CB antenna on a hinge bracket on the drivers side hood, so I've got above-average RF interference potential in that area.

 

if it flickered and then went out you might have blown a fuse. did you check that out? also what wires are what? i am going to mod my lights so that the map lights come on too when the doors are open and want to know what wire is what if you have it all figured out.

 

The rest of the console that I tapped into (compass/temp LED display) is still lit up and working normally, can't be a fuse. Not impossible there's something screwy in my wiring, the back ends of some of the crimp connectors are pressed against the top of the sunglass compartment and I tried crimping a bunch of connectors onto midline bends on a small-gauge wire.

Also, the harness running up to the factory connector in there looks to only be 20-22ga stranded wire (might be losing too much voltage by increasing the draw). I figure it's better to run a clean line up there anyway to be sure, although I may stick with the ground on the map lights since it's gotta be able to handle more amps and I've swapped in LED bulbs for those so I've definitely got an extra amp in that ground (especially once the cable shielding gets tied in at both ends...)

 

Just pulled the console off to fix things, noticed I had the harness turned around in my head and tapped all the wrong wires. Not even sure how I got the flickering I saw with the wiring as is.

 

Fixed my gap problem! Took the switch insert back out and bent all tabs out and fit very good. One side still a little bit of a gap so I epoxied that side in and now no gap! Just need more switches now lol.

Oh and from the camera angle it makes it look like it blocks the rear view a ton but I only see a 1/4 sliver in the rear view when driving

 

Rewired the lower switch leds onto the overhead panel and it works fine now that I'm tapping into the right pins.

Now I'm only going to run a switched power feed up from the dash, all the rest will be coming off the switches to the relays.

 

Fwiw, here's the plug that goes to the compass/temp display (5 wires) along with the one for the map lights (2 wires).
On the map light plug, the one with the stripe (middle pin on the connector) is ground, the other is full time hot, not switched on ignition our dash.
On the console harness, the light green on the right is switched power, the dark green is dash light power and the white with black stripe (2nd from right) is ground. Other two are some kind of signal, not sure what exactly.

 

Still making these??

 

I can. I have had a few people ask for them so if i get a list of people that would be in for one that would be awesome

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Holy revival

 

@Cali007 these are awesome