What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Are we still talking factory LCA's? If so, I don't know how you can tell the difference between factory and after market.

As near as I can tell, the factory LCA's may have thicker paint. Its a pretty basic part. It has nothing that moves except the bushings.

One advantage of aftermarket LCA's, the bolt and bushing kit has grease zerks. Factory LCA's have no way to grease them, hence the problem of the bolts freezing up inside the bushings.

 

How did you block the top portion of the projector off to get that angled look

 

I like the idea of greasing them every couple thousand miles

 

No, he was being a smart ass because he knows that stock length aftermarket LCA don't exist, at least in the sense he thought Fernando was thinking.... Make sense?

 

Did you get a copy from @what road ?

This site can no longer host or post a link to the FSM. Every time a public forum does this, Toyota sends them a cease and desist notice so they end up complying and taking down the link(s).

 

I have an 03 FSM. PM me if that works for you.

 

I have a copy of both the 96 FSM and the 2002 FSM if you need me to send you one. Good to see you back Doug!

 

i sent an email but i was tired from work i forgot to send the file. im doing it now as we speak

 

@Fernando I replaced my LCA bushings a few months ago with Whiteline 53377A poly bushings for about $65 off summit racing. This might be an option.

I was one of the lucky few who didn't have seized cam bolts or seized OEM bushings. I was able to press the old bushings out using the small bottle jack that comes with our trucks. The new bushings were easy to press in with a ballpoint press you can rent at autozone or oreillys. So far no squeaks. Some one did a write up on his Whiteline bushing swap on here, a quick Google search should get you there. The hardest part of the install is lining up the washers and bolt holes once it comes time to install the LCA.

I know @Squeaky Penguin is also running these bushings.

As far as aftermarket greaseable camber bolts, e.g. From Moog, I have heard they are junk compared to OEM bolts. Hopefully you don't have any seized bolts. When I priced them out at the dealership, they wanted about $200 for all four bolts and camber sleeves.

 

What's leaking

 

Most likely axle seals but hopefully not lol

 

How should we know? Take the drum off and have a look see, could be the brake piston or the axle seal.

 

Your axle seal. Might be time for a new axle seal and rear wheel bearing.

 

plasti dip

 

Well check your brake fluid res if it's low it could be your brakes. If the fluid has a terrible smell it's your axle seal. The seals are usually really good. If it's leaking I would bet you have a bad wheel bearing or a stuck breather. But in my experience a stuck breather makes the pinion leak.

 

I just figured most of you know more about this stuff then me and had maybe seen it before.

I still have the same about of brake fluid.

Thank you.

 

I wonder if people associate the size of the bolts with being "junk". The bolts are a mm or 2 smaller in diameter vs. the original. I can't see how that would mater. The hardened bolts really only need to with stand shearing forces. Those bolts are many times stronger than they need to be.

Do you know how many times I wished these were just a standard bolt? These hardened fuckers laugh at sawzall blades. They just round the teeth right off, hence the need for thin disk cutting wheels for the fastest method to cut them out.

 

Here is the link, it takes a little while to load but it has all the FSMs. Just right click each link and click save target as and save it where ever you want to save it.
http://web.archive.org/web/20110102225436/http://www.ncttora.com/FSM/

 

As an FYI if you need a new wheel bearing. It will save you a couple hundred bucks or so to remove the shaft and bring it to a machine shop have them install the new bearing. I would call your local Toyota dealer and ask them where they have their bearings done.(it won't be in house). I brought my shaft to my local shop it cost about $300 all said and done.

It's actually super easy to do an axle shaft in these trucks. The hardest part is the brake cylinder if your brake line is seized. So if your comfortable with trying rear brakes you can change the axle shaft. The shaft only has 4 studs and even if you shear one off its super easy. Pound it out and through bolt it with a m10x1.5x40 bolt from the local autozone and your good to go.

 

My closest "local" shop is about 2 1/2 hours away. I'm just gonna take it to a local shop and have them look at it.