A/C not up to standard

It's easy to check pressures with a manifold gauge set. It is not always easy to know what the pressure readings mean, if you are not an HVAC guy. I've been doing refrigeration since 1979, and I still get stumped sometimes. Hire a good shop. And for Gods sake, just don't buy a can of R134A and put it in the AC. It won't end well.

The condenser is in front of the radiator.

 

What he said, while I was typing.

 

IMO, if you are checking the 134a level you also need to fix the source of the leak. The pressure has to be just right on the suction side of the compressor (40-45 lbs I think but don't quote me). If it's too high, liquid coolant will return to the compressor and hydro-lock it and ruin the compressor. If it's too low then you get reduced cooling. My 2010 is working fine in 102 degree weather this week and my truck in black. It sits in a sunny parking lot so it will take awhile to notice cabin temp change. Also, I think I get about 60% "coolness" when just idling. It is almost immediately colder when the engine is maybe 1,500+ RPM and moving air through the condenser in front of the radiator. I would have the system checked. A shop by my house just checked and refilled my son's 1997 4Runner for $68 with 134a + dye. I see the dye and it's repairable. I'll have system vacuumed and refilled for another $68.

 

Hmn, okay. So I did a bit more reading. My truck is a '14, MGM, and sits in 100* heat all day.

I have a :30-45 commute home, all city (SLOW), so maybe it just doesn't have enough time to really cool down?

It pretty much just lives on max speed & max cool constantly.

 

ill check mine out...

Mine is a 15' SW and sits in 100* heat I have a 30 min commute at highway speeds 90% of the time and its usually on level 2 max cool constantly

 

AC Pro doesn't give you enough data. All you can see is the suction side pressure. The liquid side pressure is just as important to prevent over-charging...

 

i say that because it still works. Just not up to what i think is par. the "new enough" thing meant it's not a 20 year old vehicle that maybe need a recharge ot something like that. it get cold just after a LONG time. the system is sealed. when there is a leak you don't get much time before no cold air comes out. and i should of said it's been like this since day one(when it was brand new)

 

FIVE years is not an uncommon period of time to need a recharge. Leaks come in many sizes, big and small. One of the more common is a tiny leak at one of the two schrader valves, and these leaks can be tiny indeed. But a leak is a leak. If it has been this way since brand new, it could have been undercharged from the factory, or you could have a weak compressor or a malfunctioning Tx valve among other things.

But "age" is not one of the diagnostic criteria one uses, generally.

 

Wedgemoose, I knew what you meant and how you were saying it. I saw your build and can tell you know what your doing mechanically. My truck is the same. I always thought it should be colder but they do the job I guess.
I also thought mine was weak from brand new. If I remember correctly my older Tacoma was similar. So maybe it's just you and I thinking they are weak but in all reality they aren't. Good luck. Keep Cold.....

 

I have been having similar issues that a lot of people here have complained about too, however my truck has had 3 expansion valves replaced, a new condensor and dryer and has been recharged 6 times in three yrs, on top of the times with attempted repairs, all goodwill by the dealer. The dealer finally hit a roadblock and said they just cant start replacing parts without a diognosis. They cant find a leak anywhere and theres nothing more for them to do. So, I called Toyota and forced a case opened on my truck regarding the ac unit. Today, 3 field reps met me at the dealer and put me in a loaner and said they are instructing the technician to start tearing apart the ac system piece by piece until the problem is found. At this point they are expecting to find a leak under where the compressor mounts, something regarding a small leak in a seal or something directly from the compressor. They expressed similar problems found with other Tacomas and feel, based on my particular problem, that is where they will most likely find a small leak which evedentally doesnt really show up unless the compressor is actually removed.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_em9lm69HQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ey7Vhm9ZI_U

 

A\C leaks can be a bastard! to find but.........Most of the problems i see at my shop tend to be service port leaks and occasionally air flow into condensers and the most evil of them all......Wait......The leak in the evaporator behind the dash and under the dash and between the firewall. It is so hard to diagnose because its major tear down to even get to it! If it leaks good luck seeing the dye because its in the dash\firewall area. I wont even do the repair anymore. It's absolutely not an easy job by any means. The last one i did was in fact on a 1st gen Tacoma and that sucker puts outs 41 degrees out of the vents!! Like a fridge man. In fact i just did my 1st gen today after 14 YEARS! and it was 3\4 lbs low and it would still cool at 67 out the vent on freeway and 69 in town. Now im getting 51 in town and 48-49 on freeway. I tested my condenser with a spurt of water and man it got ice cold in the cab. My huge lift kit blocks some of the air flow into it so im going to add a small electric fan to it and add a trigger switch to activate it thermostatically. should really bring the temps down......I wish these trucks this year had a cabin air filter so much crap blows through the vents. My favorite is when people use that a\c pro crap in a can from the auto store. I fixed 12 vehicles this summer already because of that stuff. I had on compressor literally blow up because some idiot had 3.8 lbs in system. Watch this video in fast time on a Toyota Camry and see how hard it is to change let alone change one out!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJM-VXKQNRE