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BRAKES BRAKES BRAKES!!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by hueman562, Jun 29, 2016.

  1. Jul 23, 2016 at 11:40 AM
    #41
    Pigpen

    Pigpen My truck is never clean

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    I've driven big trucks. The general rule for descending mountain roads is, "If you're using your brakes, you're in the wrong gear." If you find youreslef needing to brake on long descents, you don't ride the brakes. You let off frequently to let them cool. Brake drums can expand enough from heat that the shoes don't contact them enough to have proper effect - that's why there are runaway truck ramps.
     
    wsurunner likes this.
  2. Jul 23, 2016 at 11:55 AM
    #42
    Seastar

    Seastar Member

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    Found her 7-28-16! little dream Taco Trk BëBë, very simple, white 2014, V6 SR5 a beauty
    #1 anti-theft CAT rebar weld, #2 McGard lock on tailgate, have floor trays & dash topper ordered.... wanna put some Michelins on instead of stupid dumb laps, just me...
    Jake Brake, mighty fine also! My dad was teamster, he taught me to use the accelerator and gears for slowing down... gotta lift the foot off the accelerator & approach downgrades slowly to start with. On dangerous curvy grades (Hwy 50 over Sierra Summit) he would say "reach up and grab that bar, cause you will grab for it a million times if we go over!" puts your mind right to the issue!
     
  3. Jul 23, 2016 at 7:14 PM
    #43
    outxider

    outxider Never stop exploring. Rest in Paradise Big Bro.

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    A few mods here and there and counting....
    Just ordered Bosch QuiteCast rotors/pads off Amazon for $123 shipped. Reviews looks solid and as close to oem as it gets.
     
  4. Jul 24, 2016 at 10:54 AM
    #44
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    I am glad you like your new brakes, but the statement above is incorrect. Tacoma's have always rated at the top of their class in braking performance.
     
    TacoJova likes this.
  5. Jul 25, 2016 at 7:29 AM
    #45
    Westside

    Westside Southbound

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    Ratings don't mean much. I've owned first and Second Gen's and they both have been under-braked compared to any of my previous trucks. Silverado, Nissan. Both trucks had confidence inspiring brakes.

    If I have 4 adults in my DC or a few hundred lbs in the bed, I better stay on top of things when driving or I'll find myself quickly up on the cars in front of me should they slow or stop. And I'm a fairly conservative driver. The new pads and rotors have improved braking on my truck
     
  6. Jul 25, 2016 at 10:54 AM
    #46
    PackCon

    PackCon Well-Known Member

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    I have not noticed any problems on mine. I love my 2013. My rear view mirror is the coolest in town!
     
    Seastar[QUOTED] likes this.
  7. Jul 25, 2016 at 11:35 AM
    #47
    WebberLander

    WebberLander Well-Known Member

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    First few posts on page one made me laugh enough that I had to post about it.

    "WHY ARE WE YELLING?" ........ seriously I laughed so hard reading that as I scrolled this thread. :rofl:
     
  8. Jul 25, 2016 at 2:20 PM
    #48
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    If you say so.......
     
  9. Jul 25, 2016 at 3:35 PM
    #49
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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  10. Jul 25, 2016 at 3:46 PM
    #50
    o0oSHADOWo0o

    o0oSHADOWo0o Just lurking in the darkness

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    Just a few LEDs...
    Hmmmm...I like the glowing brake rotor look. Maybe I'll just drive around with my foot on the gas and brake pedal at the same time so mine will glow too. It'll match my grille. :rolleyes:

    upload_2016-7-25_18-45-35.jpg
     
  11. Jul 25, 2016 at 5:13 PM
    #51
    TnShooter

    TnShooter The TacomaWorld Stray

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    I went with AdvancedAuto Semi-Metallic.
    Also went with their in house rotors.
    I've been well pleased so far.
    Stopping seems about as good.
    And they don't seem to throw brake dust.

    Honestly don't see them lasting as long as OEM.
    But we'll see.....
     
  12. Jul 31, 2016 at 9:55 PM
    #52
    Seastar

    Seastar Member

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    #1 anti-theft CAT rebar weld, #2 McGard lock on tailgate, have floor trays & dash topper ordered.... wanna put some Michelins on instead of stupid dumb laps, just me...
    thanks PacCon appreciate the information.
     
  13. Jul 31, 2016 at 10:06 PM
    #53
    Nirvana

    Nirvana Tesla Auto

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    Icon ext. travel 2.5RR in front, Icon ext. travel 2.0RR in rear, BuiltRight uniball UCAs, Wheelers Superbumps, Goodridge steel braided brake lines, BruteForce front plate bumper w/ Warn M9000+synth line, American Auto Horns ACDF, Pelfrey Bussman mount+Sandman bussman fuse block (soon), 255/75R16s on painted stockers...because I'm not paying $800 to rock rash new wheels you scrubs. Shok Industries 2/0 big 4 upgrade and sound deadener.
    Not sure if it's been mentioned, but "warping" isn't caused by your braking habits. It's uneven wear and it's caused by poor installation (uneven lug nut torquing/debris on the rotor/hub face) or installation of already of out true rotors. OP are you installing or a shop?

    Nevermind, just saw @Jimmyh got it before me as usual.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2016
  14. Aug 2, 2016 at 7:39 AM
    #54
    tgear.shead

    tgear.shead Well-Known Member

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    http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

    In a nutshell, your rotors aren't "warping". The problem is that material from the pads are being transferred unevenly to the surface of the rotor, causing differences in the friction over the surface of the rotors.
    The cause is actually in the driver, and a potentially contributing factor, is the type of transmission.
    From braking hard, the rotor gets very hot. With an automatic transmission, you then need to clamp the brake to hold the vehicle in place. During this time while the brake is clamped hard on a hot-but-cooling rotor, the pad material gets fused to the rotor.

    In order to avoid having this happen, you want to let off the brakes just before you completely stop, and keep it with as little braking force as possible. You could potentially use the e-brake or put it in neutral or park to keep. Doing this is a lot easier with a manual since it isn't trying to pull ahead while the clutch is released.

    I've got 120,000 km on my 4x4 MT. The rotors, drums, pads, and shoes are **ALL ORIGINAL**, and the braking is absolutely smooth like it was the day I bought it. I do have a few lines of rust on the inside surface of the rotors, so its getting to be about time to have them turned. I am *very* confident in the OEM parts and will NOT be seeking any aftermarket substitutes.
     
    Nirvana likes this.

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