The Getaway...Crom's build and adventures

It might be causing your take off vibes, but if the bearing itself is good, then I wouldn't stress about it too much. Maybe put it on your "to do list" just because it's fun.

In my case, after changing the support bearing 2 or 3 times, it didn't have any effect in the clunk I have, but it was fun.

I'm now leaning toward motor mounts, ball joints (upper and lower), and cab mount bushings.

I've been having tons of fun lately with my clutch pedal and hydraulics. I need to update my thread with that.

 

The LCA's look pretty! That's in my future, hope not for a while though. My issue was with the front shocks, and the new 6112's rock. Sorry to hear about the UCA issue. Makes me glad my OEM's are still working fine for me. I guess if it aint broke """". Good luck with the Take off shutter. Like the CV bearing vibe did it as soon as I added the AAL's. I tried all hieghts with the carrier bearing and just went with the least vibe 1/4". I think the 2/3 degree shim may be be trick.

 

Thanks Sam. I look forward to your updates.

Thanks Curt.

I just picked up what I think is a very high quality digital angle finder and I just got educated on how to measure and calculate drive line angles. Going to do that soon. Was going to do it today but it was thermonuclear hot.

 

Brand new redesigned

$23 Moog K80827 Front Lower Suspension Ball Joint for Toyota Tacoma

Moog K80827 Lower Ball Joints pressed in!

Amazon delivered Moog LBJ around 1pm, and I immediately drove straight over to E&M auto in El Cajon, CA.



Shops like this are classic, and I love them. They can do almost anything for reasonable cost, if you bring it to them.

They pressed perfectly, two LJB in 20 minutes, for $22.50.

New LBJ


New LBJ

 

Also, I found out from Moog today that they did in fact redesign the LBJ.

• It no longer has a big umbrella style dust boot. (What you see in the photo below is complete!) Here is the marketing speak behind it. "A patent-pending dust boot with encapsulated Belleville washer design is combined with a powdered-metal gusher bearing to maintain long life and controlled axial and radial movement."
  
• They also threaded the hole for the zerk fitting.
  
• The top of the ball joint (head), is also different, more shallow than before, which may help with zerk fitting and not hitting CV.

After studying the new joint for a while, I decided it would be even better if I moved the dust boot from the older design LBJ (still new), to the new designed one.

Now the LBJ has two layers of defense! lol

 

Damn i wish we had shops like that in MD, everything over here are either Shady ripoff's or uber expensive $300/hr places that do mediocre work.

 

I hate it when it's like that... I'll admit it was a journey to get all the work done on the LCA's. I painted them today, flat black, they look soo good now.

for the LBJ, I had to make 4 phone calls before I found E&M. I started with the mechanics that work on the car...

Me: Can you press BJ?
car mechanic: Years ago... now we unbolt and replace the whole arms.
Me: mmm kay, where would you go to get this work done?
car mechanic: I don't know, call xyz.

I talked to three different shops before I found E&M. Best resource was the phone book, and making phone calls.

 

Today I also picked up a new grease gun for a brand new 14oz tube of Prothane Super Grease that's on its way.

It's expensive grease! $41.53 for the tube. I know of no other market alternatives that have the same incredible waterproof ultra-tacky adhesion qualities, and also PTFE based.

It's necessary for the poly bushings. It should last a very long time, so I'm okay with it.

 

Yeah, around here they would have gone "LBJ? WTF is that, they dont make cars with those anymore. sorry we cant help you *click*"........ its DIY or die in MD, outside of one forum members place they are all crap.

After having my face covered in grease, i highly recommend you take all those fitting apart and seal them with something... otherwise grease leaks from everywhere..... or it might be my POS grease gun. YMMV

 

I like that gun. So much better than the lever style. Need to get my hand on one of those.

 

Lubrimatic is all you had to say!
Sounds like marketing from the 50's. I like it.

 

What's a "phone book"? LOL

 

Where did you find the Prothane grease? I should probably get some for my UCAs.

And the grease gun - I looked on Amazon and they didn't list it.

 

Hey Nick, does your angle finder look like this? Lol. This has a spirt level on the other side and can be very accurate, but not digital.

 

Starett for the win.

 

@Crom next time you need a press yell at me. I have a small one that I can deliver or access (el Cajon) to a big floor mounted 20ton or what ever it is lol

 

I'll count my blessings then!

San Diego east county, has a long rich history with automobile racing. As I understand that tradition still exists in some form today. One of the reasons there are so many great shops around.

--Source ​

The Green Dragon with Barney at the wheel


The smooth track surface was state-of-the-art in 1907.The Lakeside Inn appears in the background at the top left and the historic church at the top right.The church is now the home of the Lakeside Historical Society.

@Chuy Did you know there used to be a racetrack where you lived?

When I was a kid there was a racetrack in El Cajon called Cajon Speedway. I would go there with my friends and it was awesome.

You hear the cars racing for miles around on Saturday nights.

CAJON SPEEDWAY
Fastest 3/8 Mile Paved oval on the west Coast
Originally ¼ Mile Dirt Oval & 3/8 Mile Dirt Oval
El Cajon Ca,

First night for SDRA Modified cars was July 15 1961.

Last race of a full race season was on Oct 9th 2004.

There were a few go cat races & some testing after that ,Track officially closed on Aug 8th 2005​

Today I would have to guess, that most auto racing is Baja related. It's not something I follow, but it is interesting to know about.

And thanks for the tips on the grease gun.

This will be my first pistol style gun. My other one is a lever one, and it works, but it can be cumbersome at times. For the Tacoma, I can't see any issues with the pistol grip one. Some guys say they don't fit into tight places.

Lubrimatic - For more than 40 years, LubriMatic has been developing and distributing superior lubrication products. Part of the Plews & Edelmann family of products, LubriMatic serves the industrial, hardware, marine, automotive and agricultural markets, as well as many industries requiring professional grade lubricants and penetrants.

Haha! It's what the Terminator used in 1984 to find Sarah Connor when she was 19 years old working as a waitress at Big Jeff's Family restaurant.

Bought from Amazon, on Amazon,

$72 Prothane 19-1751 Super Grease Tube - 14 oz.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JMEC0E/

Best price I could find.

The gun I found at Wally world in the automotive section, and was mostly an impulse buy. I figured I'd try it and if it holds up I'll keep it.

Honestly, I took it completely apart and all the threads are cut clean on the fittings and has some heavy duty rubber seals, which I greased with PTFE. I can't find anything I don't like about it. The hose is rated to 5K PSI, which is better than some others.

That's a really nice tool right there, and it will probably last forever.

Thanks a bunch Chris!

 

This is the angle finder I bought to measure my drive line angles. So far, I like it.

AccuRemote Angle Finder.

• magnetic on three sides, (Bottom and sides)
  
• Display will automatically invert if turned upside down, very nice.
  
• All aluminum case, four screws hold the back on, and came with small screwdriver and carry case
  
• Weighs 7.4oz with 9v battery. It's dense for its size.
• Measure range: 360 degrees (4 x 90)
• Resolution: 0.05 degrees
• Accuracy: +/- 0.2°
• Standard 9V battery (250hrs) included
  
• Displays relative/absolute angles in degrees or tilt percent. Measure range: 360 degrees (4 x 90)
• Dimensions: 2-3/8" x 2-3/8" x 1-3/8".
• Assembled in China, Designed in California.

My work desk is level.

Slipped a quarter under one side, and angle of measurement is 2.15°


So far it looks like it's going to work beautifully.

Here is a really solid source for how to measure drive line angles.

Note to self:

1. Zero reference point on the transmission output. Will be zero. (slope A)
   
2. Measure slope of coupling shaft, (slope B)
   
3. Measure slope of drive shaft. (Slope C)
4. Measure slope of axle off bearing cap (Slope D).

The rule is, look at slopes from the front of the vehicle, to the back, slope can be up or down, and must be noted. If two adjacent slopes are in the same direction (both up, or both down), then subtract the smaller from the larger to calculate the operating angle. If adjacent slopes are in different directions (up-down, or down-up), then add the slopes together to calculate operating angle. Simple.

Since the Tacoma rear drive line has 3 u-joints, I'm after those three angles.

Spicer says that u-joint angles should be 3° or less for max service life of joint.

 

Your on the right track. What is your net lift now? ie loaded normally. I went through that some time ago and noted all the angles. Have it buried in the garage somewhere. Standing by for your detailed report.

 

Excited to see u do this and what u find
Take lot aid pictures where u found ur angles from so I can follow ur recipe!