What oil filter is on your 2.7?

Thanks for the link. Just backed up my feeling that Frams are crap and OEM is best bang for your buck.

 

Fram Ultra XG8A. I keep it on for two 7500 mile oil changes.
Comparing synthetic media to traditional gauze based on area is not much of a comparison. I go with the (way) oversized filter to get more filtering area and to reduce the pressure drop so it doesn't bypass as long during cold startups.
Short of a catastrophic failure of the filter or a big leak, I don't think it will affect engine life with reasonable replacement frequencies. Some are more prone to startup noise too.

 

Just to make sure. That filter works on the 2.7? I have wondered if there was a bigger filter that would work on the 4cyl. I know this post is in the 4cyl section but want to make sure you don't have something other than a 2.7.

 

I've been using a Mobil 1-102 and don't go over 7500 miles with Amsoil Signature. I'm going to look into the Fram XG8A in a Mobil 1 though. I have wanted to find a bigger filter that would work. With that I could feel very safe running to 10,000 with the Amsoil. Maybe even 15,000. I'll be getting an oil analysis done at 7500 this next time around to get a feel for how the current oil and filter are working. I know they say 15,000 for this filter and 25,000 for this oil under normal circumstances but I don't have the balls to go the limit.
I also installed a Fumoto oil valve this last oil change. It should make changing the oil a FAR less messy experience. I was quite skeptical of putting a "valve" in place of my oil plug but after months of reading and thinking about the Fumoto I bought one. I also got the locking clip and a snap in nipple so I can attach a hose to it so I can "aim" the stream plus the "cap" to go over the nipple outlet.
Once I actually looked at the valve I could understand that there is no way that thing could really ever malfunction and with the clip no way it could ever be opened in any off-road situation. With the cap it wouldn't leak even if the valve miraculously opened somehow. Now I never have to worry about stripping the threads on the plug after many uses and I won't have a mess. I can also drain out samples far easier with more control.

 

Frams, also known as "the orange can of death" aren't bad filters but you have to buy their top of the line. If you buy their top of the line they are very good filters. Even the oil gurus who hate Fram over on BITOG admit that. The problem is that after Fram filters ruined so many engines no one wants to take the chance anymore. I didn't find out about the Fram debalce until about 5 years ago and used Fram Tough Guards on an old Caddy I owned for at least 10 years and never had a problem. It was a daily driver and my only car for 18 years until I bought this Taco from my dad two years ago. I still miss it. Once I heard about it I changed over to WIX with that car.

 

$35 shipped

 

I've used Purolator Pure One series filter on all of my vehicles for the past 15 years. IMHO they are the best bang for the buck high quality media and efficiency along with a silicone nitrile drain back valve (the burnt orange looking one) and also IMHO Fram filters are made from feces

 

LOL early oil changes don't promote or cause more wear. The lack of detergent in keeping the oil in longer does, along with build up in the intake.

 

I run a Motorcraft filter. 30 micron absolute and it's working fine. They are a whopping 4 bucks at the local Walmart and have a tighter micron rating than the OEM filter which is 40 micron absolute.

 

Only way to truly know is to monitor TAN and TBN values with an oil sample sent to a lab.

Running 5k-7k is not a problem as long as your engine isn't burning off what you put in.

 

This is true for 5 to 7k, but the statement made it seem like oil should add lubrication with age, it doesnt. Thermal breakdown and oil degradation causes it to become acidic, full of particles(detergent depletion), and begins to become less lubricative

 

Kinda.

Lubrication priority remains. The loss of detergent and several other ingredients in the additive package during normal use show up like I mentioned above. Reduction in TBN (Total Base Number the activity of the additive package) and TAN (Oil Acidity).
Particulates in the oil can be from many different things such as normal wear I.e. bearing metals, block wear, cam lobe wear, piston rings, outside sources such as dirt and many more.

I've got an old oil sample report from an old truck I'd post showing all of this but a quick visit to Bob Is The Oil Guy or Black Stone Labs page and most of this can be explained.

Take care.

 

OEM All Day!

 

Interesting information for those doing or considering extended oil change intervals - the Motorcraft FL-910s oil filter is the only one that O'Reilly Auto Parts carries that has with a 2-year warranty... it is also one of the least expensive and highest-rated oil filters available for the 2TR-FE:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...model=Tacoma&vi=1433241&year=2006&make=Toyota

 

The FL-910 is the shorty. I run the FL-400S perfect fit and no issues here.
Local Walmart has them as does the majority of parts stores. I believe I paid 3.89 plus tax or something like that.

 

I have read in some places that it does cause more engine wear to change the oil too soon. I know it sounds absurd but that type of thinking is out there. It could be true but I have no way of knowing how or why. The best thing to do if anyone wants to extend their oil change intervals is to have analysis done. I run Amsoil signature and this next change at 7500 miles I'll send off for an analysis. Up until now I have for the most part gone 5000-7500 miles with Mobil 1 extended and then switched to Amsoil where I have gone only 5000 miles as per the factory change intervals. I want to go 10,000 miles with an oil filter change at every 5000 on my 2.7. If I can't then fine but I'll do the analysis to decide. Amsoil signature is rated for 25,000 miles depending on the engine and the use. I think 10,000 with an oil filter change at 5000 will work but I'll see.

 

Actually that is pretty true. The reason is there is more chance to introduce contaminants into the crankcase. Extended OCI helps reduce that chance. At the same time if you have contamination and you leave it in longer you have a higher risk of greater damage.

 

x2 on this, i only run Toyota filters on mine now

 

$15 Mobil 1 M1-102 / M1-102A Extended Performance Oil Filter

https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-M1-102...413&sr=8-1&keywords=mobil+1+M1-102+oil+filter

 

OEM all the way.90915-YZZD3.dealer sells for the same as online and gives me a free drain plug washer.