Long Travel BS Thread

Either you got the wrong plastic or the way it's mounted caused it to warp. If it's 1/8" thick and more than likely Kydex and I t will warp. The 1/4" abs plastics seem to do better.

Also if the plastic has any gap between it and your tube it will warp. I've been working in the desert in 120+ degree heat with zero warp, but I started using different tabs that allowed zero gap between the main hoop and the plastic. Unless you modified them, the style tabs you're using put the plastic Atleast an 1/8" off the tube.

 

I'd also put the mounts a little closer together. The distance In between bolts isn't helping your cause either

 

This. I had 1/8 and it warped bad. Went to 1/4 zero warp

 

On the rear of mine I used fiber reinforced 1/4" rubber, since I scrape the ass on the ground all the time

 

as in carpet races?

 

I did the same too and also a stick of 1.5 for gussets and splices for my 1.75

 

Yea that's what I'm thinkin, I have some 1.25 layin around too for corner gussets and seat rails too, just tryin to think of an easy way to drop the cage to weld it 360.... Do the pillars need to be one continuous hoop? Or can I build the roof and then the pillars after?

 

I cut up an old conveyer drive belt, it was like 20 feet long and a foot wide, smooth on both sides

Edit: haha no not carpet races with the dog

 

Flexin the crane out at work right now lol

 

I know 2 ways to drop a cage without cutting the roof off.

Build top and c pillar. Splice A pillar behind dash and rock forward. I'm also splicing B pillar near the floor. This is how I'm doing mine. Hope to drop mine in a few weeks when I get back from my business trip.

Second way drop the whole thing straight down. The attachment to the frame would need to be to the side of the frame. Kinda hard to explain this.

There is probably a few other ways too. Like build the roof line and pull it out through the front windshield to weld the top and stuff it back in the truck.

 

I'm trying to avoid taking the Windows out

 

To properly tie everything into the pillars of the cab and weld everything, the front and rear windows have to come out. If you're looking to build a cage that looks like it was professionally done. If your just looking to build a roll bar or jeep style 6 point you could probably get away with out it. But if you're trying to build something like the guys in this thread, windows are getting pulled. And to be honest their is a good chance they will be cracked if you don't. Roof does not need to come off. You can just drop the cage down thru the floor.

On a unibody you would just build boxes to weld the cage to the floor, pull them out, drop the cage to finish weld, insert boxes back in and weld them in place.

 

Might just do a half cage with seats n belts.... It's not a race car....it's a truck still

 

Never mind fuck that full cage I drive like an asshole

 

Don't do harness if you don't fully cage it

 

Yea I need to just man up and cage the whole thing.... Can't be that hard

 

Or do something like the allpro black Betty cage that's what I'm gonna do. No downtime from having the entire interior torn out for a few weeks.

 

Nah, I got goggles and a milk crate if I need to drive it lol

 

man im kicking myself for not ordering fiberglass bedsides sooner... would be nice if they kept stock of them

 

Who'd you order through? Tim had mine in about 2-3 weeks