2016 BBP audio build

It could but honestly I think it would be more trouble that it would be worth.

 

Got it, I figured that would be the case which is no big deal, I'll just run in parallel to the stock wiring in case I go back one day.

What is the best kit to use to provide power and ground to the LC7i? I think this is the last piece I am missing to complete the design in my mind

 

Even if you do use the factory speaker wiring, you'll have to overcome a couple of obstacles.

1) Factory wiring to the rear door comes out on top of the inner door panel, while your new speakers will need to have the wiring connect to the back of the speaker under the door panel and behind the adapters. You can use the adapters and some speaker wire to run back into the door and attach.

2) Factory speaker wiring to the fronts is all routed through the stock tweeter. Factory wiring goes in to tweeter which has a crossover built in to it. From the factory dash tweeter, you'll have 2 wires going down to the door.

I agree with 1sttruckguy78. You might as well just run new wiring from the amp's speaker outputs since you'll be doing roughly the same amount of rewiring either way.

 

I didn't use a kit to wire the power, ground and remote to my signal processor. I used some 16 guage wire that I had laying around from past installs. I piggybacked the power and remote from my sub amp connections and it works just fine.

 

You ran

16 gauge from the battery to your amp?

 

No, I just ran the power and remote right off my sub amp

 

Got it. Same here.

I was thinking for a minute that you had run the power to your sub amp on 16 gauge wire. That would make bad things happen.

 

How did you make the actual connection? Did you use a distribution block?

 

If it's just a 16ga wire, you can just run it alongside the 4ga wire in the amp, and insert the other end into the LOC.

 

Yup that's exactly how I did it.

 

Sorry for tangeting here, but I am looking to do similarly... Use the factory speaker wire if possible. I will be sending the output from a Rockford Fosgate P400X4 amp to the door speakers. I understand that the fronts have the tweeter and door speaker in parallel, and based on you comment above the factory tweeter "has a crossover built in to it"...

So will either of these two options work for the front speakers?

1) Leave the factory tweeter wired in and add a 3-way Rockford Fosgate P1675 to the door (it has built in crossover, no separate box).
a) Will the factory tweeter mess up the signal to the new door speaker?
b) Will this produce too much tweet? Kind of like too much cowbell.


2) Completely disconnect the factory tweeter and just have the 3-way in the door.
a) Since the wiring diagram for the 2016 Entune (Non-JBL) shows the tweeter and door speakers are in parallel I would assume the door speaker will still get signal with the tweeter disconnected.

Any thoughts you have will be appreciated.

 

2 speakers playing the same frequencies on the same side at different distances will cause even more phase issues than already in a mobile audio system ie it won't sound as good as it could with the factory "tweeter" (more like a mini midrange) disconnected. The drag is if you just disconnect the factory tweeter at the plug the mid wire loses power due to how Toyota wired everything so the easiest way I have found is to cut the black/red wire going to the tweeter and connecting that to the new mid (leave the gray plug connected)

 

As always, Mr. Marv is spot on.

I thought about going that route, but opted to just run new speaker wire from the amp to a crossover located above each kick panel. There is no room to work at all in that factory tweeter location. If you opt to cut the wire there, it's going to be tricky to reconnect it if you opt to go back to factory when you trade or whatever.

I dropped wire down from factory tweeter to crossover, and fished a wire to the door from the crossover. Took no time at all, and nothing is cut. My system sounds great.

 

Should have mentioned I'm with you as I would just run new speaker wire which is not too difficult nor expensive!

 

Lastly, a good set of components is going to sound a lot better than 2-ways.

 

Awesome build

 

Yeah, I am just avoiding that in my mind for some reason I can't comprehend..... i.e. - I am being an irrational twit.....

I have been intent on the idea of making a harness using the Meta

$12 71-1761 87-94 Toyota Vehicle Harness

71-1761 /

$8 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness Fits Select 1987-UP Toyota Vehicles Power + 4 Speaker (Packaging May Vary)

70-1761 that would run from the back of the head unit ---> to a Recurve and amp ---> then back into the original factory plugs to the speakers..

But I think I am getting closer to accepting new speaker wire as the best and right choice. It's kind of hard to ignore the recommendations of somebody as knowledgeable as you.

 

Hey Dug, that's exactly what I did. Where the harness taps back in to the factory wiring to the speakers, I cut the leads for the front speakers (in the metra harness), and just wired directly to the crossovers. It's really just a tweak on the plan that you have in your mind, and it's the right way to do it.

 

@hookembevo could you give a little more detail on this?

Did you keep the factory tweeter? I was planning on not have a separate tweeter at all, so if I go with new speaker wires from the amp to the doors and leave the factory speaker wire untouched I would not have any need to get near the in dash tweeter right?

Plus I get from you other post that you recommend component speakers (with a separate crossover box) to a 2-way or 3-way speaker, is that a correct assumption?

If I go with component speakers then I have to get into the dash and remove the old tweeter and run wire up there and back over to the door, right?

 

Do you have your build detailed anywhere on the forum? Cause now I am really confused with what you did.