What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

since we are talking about wheels, what do you guys think of these? Id probably paint them a dark matte bronze if I could. The only thing that I don't like are the fake bolt looking things around the rim and the fact that they only come in 4.5 bs, but whats everyone elses opinions on them

 

You hit the nail on the head about the bolts IMO. I like em in this color, but bronze would probably look good too

 

Looks like SCS F5...

 

Was just going to say look like my F5's

 

Long time lurker. Just picked up a double cab for 600 dollars. Frame is shot but i knew that in advance. not a problem I own a nice mig setup and I'm pulling the body and box off to completely redo the frame rails that have the rot. I've got a question for you guys, where can i get some replacement cab corners. That it the only rust on the body and when i tear this thing down, i'm sending it in to get blasted. I know they are shot but i can't find any online. My old fords had two hundred sites selling replacement panels but i can't find anything for my tacomas. I can spend the hours redoing them myself but cutting and popping in new steel was my first choice.

 

Think I broke my spider gears at the offroad park in the front diff. Cut one of my cv's in half to get home the 2 hour drive. (Theory behind this was afraid the diff would lock up on the highway since cv's still spin.) Had to do the work in a downpour so that wasn't fun. I can't afford new gears gears for a bit so I am going to disconnect the front drive shaft, change the oil in it and run it like that for a while.

 

Sorry to hear that, man. What sort of obstacle were you on when you busted the spiders?

 

This but going the opposite direction.



Got up that first ledge and bumped the rears on it and spun to try to get it up, couldn't and backed out.

Went to go on a tighter trail and hard turns made a popping sound in the front end. CV's are fine so assumption is front diff.

 

Strange but not unheard of. If you put an Aussie or lock rite in you won't need to worry about spiders. Just buy CV joints with lifetime warranties.

Edit: you inspected both CVs? If you blew apart the bearing cage in the hub end the boot would probably be attached still. With an open diff you wouldn't really hear much noise.

 

The perfect excuse for an arb!

 

Planning on going ARB front. Just trying to figure out what I need to do to be able to drive for a couple months while I get the cash for the regear and front locker.

Anyone with more experience please chime in.

I am thinking leaving the passenger side CV in and in tact. Since ADD tube is disengaged it shouldn't turn the gears in the diff. Since I have no shaft connecting the drivers side nothing is spinning the diff there either. And since both of those are disconnected the front drive shaft shouldn't spin either, correct? I can confirm that by trying to spin it by hand now, or video it and see if it moves when I move the truck.

 

Your fine. As long as the outer stub shafts are in the hub and axle end you will have zero problems. I have run mine with one or both of the CV shafts missing numerous times.

 

I just want to make sure that I can DD the bitch without risk of the front diff locking up on me is all at this point.

 

Can you explain why running those lockers helps with the spiders? I'm not the most knowledgeable person when it comes to gears, but I know the basics. Thanks!

 

You pulled the driver shaft, assuming your disconnect is working your correct there is no issue.

The only thing I would be curious of is you broke the hub side bearing cage on your passenger CV. The boot would likely stay attached. Most of the CVs I have broken the boot doesn't disconnect and the CV looks fine it grinds and the boot simply spins on the outer stub. Once in 2wd the sounds would be light and possibly not noticeable. Iv heard of open front guys wearing spiders out on larger tires but pretty rare. In my personal experience I blew a rear ring gear on 33s after abuse for a few year but no issues with the front. I have since referred and ditched the front spiders so I may not have abused the front enough to have that type of failure.

 

The Aussie and lock rite replace spider gears with a ratcheting locker mechanism. They use big pins and a funky mechanism I can't really explain. The stock spider gears are weaker and more prone to failure due to contact patch.
The ARB has spider gears and a sliding pin that locks the diff when engaged.

I'm not great at explaining things but this video explains how an open diff works with spider gears.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yYAw79386WI

 

I actually thought it was my passenger CV and replaced it first. CV was fine actually. So both sides of CV's have been accounted for and essentially eliminated.

 

Thanks! I'll dig around a little more, but you explained it well enough to satisfy my curiosity. I have a clamshell with 5.29s and an ARB waiting to get swapped in, so I'm glad to hear that the locker helps strengthen things. I'd much rather have the CVs be the fuses on the trail.

 

A video that kind of shows how a auto locker works and sort of how it replaces the weak spider gears. And demonstrates why they are easier to turn or drive at speed than a locked ARB.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kL0hPEOStGk

Darn that sucks. Your probably right I can't think of what else would be possible. Any metal bits in the fluid?

 

Yea I love the fuseable link. The ARB is a great improvement for everything. Plus when you start driving it it's like night and day.