Closed (for now): Group Buy: IEDLS Polyurethane Carrier Bearing

I bought it used with 75k on the clock so it was an unseen issue.
Even if I took a screwdriver and moved it inbetween the yokes of the un-joint, there wasn't any movement.
Yes, I agree on the greasing but if you look closely, that shaft hole is completely filled with debris, I took a pick to unclog it.
No grease was going to make it thru there!

 

I know this is KINDA off topic, but it's another option now that the bearing s full price.

I'm also going to be putting my shaft and bearing in the classifieds soon. First shot to those reading this thread Send me a PM though. Don't want this to turn into a for sale thread...

I picked up the new one piece driveshaft and threw it in. $573 all new.




The shaft is 1/8 inch thick steel. Look at the difference in the slip joint diameter. I didn't measure, but it's noticeable.

I also had them use a slip joint that was splined the entire length instead if the normal couple of inches. Hopefully this will keep any high speed wobbles at bay.



The slip joint is also greasable



Installed


Here's the shops info for anyone who's local. I also saw a bunch of shafts ready to ship...

 

Looks great

 

Hey Guys, my carrier bearing (center support bearing) is pretty shot, I've been looking at this bearing for awhile now. But in searching around online I came across another bearing for a Ranger that's very similar, made by Spicer and much less expensive. It looks like the bearing ID is correct. Has anyone tried this bearing?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Spicer/094/21...193344547511&gclid=COa0q6TEoM4CFVKEfgodcn4G4w

 

I believe the CB that this thread is about is actually one from a Ranger anyway. So I'd imagine they are very similar if not identical.

 

I think mine will be up for sale soon just want what I paid for it

 

I would assume so as well, figured I'd ask to see if anyone else came across this one. It appears to be rubber, not polyurethane like the IEDLS bearing. I caved and ordered a stock replacement which means I'll need to replace it again soon

I'll be waiting

 

Also have three new U Joints with zerks if interested

 

watch out for these though, alot of the stock replacement CBs for the ranger that are the same as the IELDS ones are NOT SEALED, hence why they come with slingers. Thing is, those slingers will NOT fit onto our driveshaft properly, NOR will the stock slingers properly cover the ranger CB.

You want a sealed bearing ranger CB if you are going to do this, IEDLS is one of them, i am sure there are more out there.

I am still trying to get my driveline angles right for my install, just have not had time to figure it out.


@HolyHandGrenade how did the one piece help with vibes?

 

It's much better. I did notice this weekend on the way to the Take Over that I get vibes at around 80 MPH. But, I don't need to be going that fast anyway...

 

yeah its a constant battle.

The biggest thing i am dealing with now is axle wrap which is quite bad with my single leaf AAL. Loaded down the overload acts like a traction bar and limits axle wrap, but unloaded the axle can swing alot more making it problematic.

I just put some 2deg shims in to tilt the pinion up tonight, and it didnt help, BUT i am going to raise the CB quite a bit to see if i can get angles better.


So far the best was the ranger CB mounted like it would be in the ranger (so lowest position), problem with this was i got some higher speed vibes now due to the pretty extreme angle out of the tcase.

almost tempted to say eff it and get some dakars or all pro springs.

 

Trying to solve vibes when you are getting axle wrap is almost impossible because your u joint angles will be constantly changing. I have multiple aals right now, but one is stiffer, so less axle wrap.

What I ended up doing was what was best in my mind. After measuring all my angles a few times to confirm, I added a 2.5° steel shim to angle the rear axle flange down. This made the transmission flange and rear flange very close to parallel. I then dropped the carrier bearing to make the driveshaft almost a straight line, trans to rear axle. This makes the first and las u joint cancel eachother out vibe wise. The middle u joint has very minimal angle, meaning it won't cause large vibes.

Theres other ways to do this, but this made the working angle on the u joints much less than any other method.

I have barely any vibes now except at 30 ish and 60ish, which I think I need to drop the shaft another 1/8" or so

 

Anyone interested in my bearing and 3 U Joints as I am not going to use them?

 

Just want what I paid for it shipped 73.00

 

Also have 3 new in the box U Joints for 20.00 each. Want to sell it as a set.

 

ALL PARTS ARE SOLD

 

ALL PIECES ARE SOLD

 

For those of you who have done the install, have you experienced any fine vibrations or buzzing from the driveshaft? I figure if you install a more dense material in a system with some small vibration, that it would resonate into the frame of the truck.

 

None but then again, my u-joint was toast...

 

Just FYI - the CB was added to their catalog in the Online Store - so anyone can buy it from their website and get the $75 GB price.
https://www.iedls.com/?a=Our_Difference#Online_Store|3|12

Look at the Part # too - TGB = Toyota Group Buy (???)