ICON Stage 4 Tubular UCA's and 285/70/17 Install Query

Gathering all the components, pieces and parts to install my ICON stage 4 Tubular kit, ICON Progressive AAL with overload, Cooper STT Pro 285/70/17's on Method NV's

16 TRDOR DCSB 4wd. (I have seen some 2wd and xcab report no issues as well as a few 4wd misc but I am skeptical about fully stuffed conditions with those)

Looking for feedback from those who have installed this or a similar kit. I do not forsee any issues except for possible tire rubbing, I am confident I can get my caster where it needs to be and get the right lift height. What I am concerned about is any rubbing.

I am sure there are a few that have made his happen and would like to get your feedback as I do not want to CMC or any other cuts. It would be nice to root out any thing specific to ICON installation, + tips tricks etc...

It also would be great to see your build page of you have one. Still waiting on a few piece parts them time to get down and dirty.

 

Super easy install. Toughest part is hammering and bending the sheet metal out of the way for the UCA bolts to slide forward. Remove the small splash guards off the frame first, the I used a rubber mallet and channel loccks to bend the metal a bit. I had to unbolt a few electrical connectors to let the bolt move forward on the driver side, but that was easy as well. Once you slide the bolts back down though the new arms, the metal easily bent back and was covered by the splash guards.

I also removed the skidplate and entire sway bar to make the coilover install much easier. Less stuff in the way, and only takes 2 more min to undo the swaybar ends.

You'll love the kit.

My BFG's rub a bit though. Only when hitting a bump and steering. It's just the plastic and not the cab mount. Maybe one day i'll bust out the knife and start cutting a bit. I have 275/70/17's

 

Looks good, hate to hear all about the rub, maybe no way around it without a CMC, this seemed to be the consensus of those who have done a few installs.

On the UCA bolts I am just gonna cut the passenger side and if need be both sides..
Did you install the 1.5" progressive AAL with the overload in or take it out? any other adjustments post install...

Looking forward to getting my mine going...

 

Bigger tires will rub on this kit, cause it's not a true lift. You're stuffing a bigger tire into the same size hole. Maybe your offset will help a bit, the TRD rims are a bit narrower with less backspacing.

I didn't install the add a leafs yet, cause I'm still waiting on the spanner wrench from ICON. Been a frigging month..... I'll end up taking out the overload leaf and cranking the front up 3/4 of an inch or so.

And cut the upper arm bolt?? how you gonna get it back in? you still have to bend the metal back a bit to slide a new one in.

 

You slide the new bolt back in the opposite direction and locktite them. They won't slide out that way.

Are you worried about rake? Just curious why you had to wait to install the AAL because of not having the spanner...

 

Did you have any trouble getting the UCA bolts out? I'm about to tackle a lift with new UCA's. Same truck here.

 

Oh and I just ordered the same kit! Was going to ask...did it come with new ubolts? I'm going to most likely run my overload anyways which will cause me to purchase much longer ubolts, but was curious if they came with them

 

Have not got mine in yet, still waiting, but yes I thing it does come with extended ubolts to accommodate the progressive AAL and if your gonna keep your overload.

 

That'd be awesome. I've got another two weeks until mine arrives, so I'll just wait and focus on getting the new bumpers painted and mounted up. My Toytec boss 2.0 setup will be for sale shortly!

 

Good to see a few installs, but it would be great to see more with detailed pics and seeing how much you HAD TO TRIM WITH 275's or 285's....if any...

Although not racing shocks per se, as a dd and off-road setup I have heard nothinbut good things besides getting documentation for rebuilds out of Icon....I think they will provide it on request but they will not post publicly...

I am still out 3-4 weeks due to backlog of CO's, hope it's worth the wait...

 

sub'd because we are going Stage 3 or 4

 

So I finally got the rear leafs in, and cranked the front coils 3 turns on the passenger, and 4 turns on the driver. Much of the tire rubbing went away, and I'm sitting up about 1 3/4" up front and 1 1/2 in the back.

Do yourself, and the public, a favor and don't half ass the UCA bolt by sliding it in from the rear. The write up that's on the suspension page here is dangerous advice. It takes 10 minutes to bend the metal out of the way to clear the bolts, so you can slide them in from the front.

 

Can you elaborate why this is not a real lift? or is it a real lift now that you got your spanner wrench and your not rubbing? better yet why is it dangerous to put the bolt in the other way? Red loctite and torqued, it has been done over and over in the 16 lift threads.

 

To clarify just a bit...
To be politically correct which I can tell those believers to go, ICON is a "performance suspension system" but its also a performance suspension that provides lift, a real lift is not a hockey puck above or below your existing suspension, I would be willing to debate that to the extent that its worth.....the UCA bolts that have been cut, one side or the other or both has been going on way back into the second gen years....I would venture to say of it were a dangerous thing to do it would have been voiced loud and clear through the voices of TW members...

 

I'll bump it myself...lol

 

Agreed. If you take the proper precautions to secure that "backwards" UCA bolt, it's not coming out under normal, even extreme conditions. The forces just aren't working against it that way. That being said, I like to do things the "right" way the first time, but it takes much more than "just ten minutes" to bend the body metal out of the way to remove the stock UCA bolts.

I just received my full Stage 4 kit. Inspected it and all looks well. I wish they would have wrapped the leaves before they slid them in the box (that sounds bad, don't it?), because the bolts punctured the box and marred up the threads pretty good. A little die work and they're good as new. I'll post up pictures of before/during/after for all of your picture whores!

 

I have a '16 AC TRD OR that I installed a Icon Stage 5 in, 3 months ago. I'm running 285 BFG KO2 AT's. From my experience, expect it to rub the inner fender plastic, without trimming. I also did a Cab Mount Chop just to ensure I had plenty of room to stuff the tires w/o rubbing. I'd recommend doing both. I haven't cranked up the front springs at all. They are set as they came from ICON.

 

Still gathering misc tools and such so I can allocate 2 days for the install, ordered tri-flo and super lube for the UCA's and am gonna try Boeshield T9 on the shock bodies to see how that works out. Have 2 flange bolts on the side in case I do not feel like bending. My old jack and jack stands have seen better days so I have had to fork out a bit more for a 3 ton 19" aluminum low profile jack and some decent stands. My ole torque wrench goes to the bottom drawer in lieu of a new decent one, bought a new grinder/ cutter for this job instead of the small time pneumatic....

Still better than forking out 600-900 bones to have some one do the wrenching, gives me an opportunity to re-tool a bit. Looking at next weekend to drop the hammer,

have my 285/70/17's mounted and balanced with TPMS's installed on Method 17" NV's....Hope to degrease my hands a couple times during the install to get some pics to post....

 

^are you cutting the UCA bolts for easier removal?

 

Doesnt Icon state this to be a 2.5 inch lift? wondering why noone seems to be lifting the fronts to the full 2.5 to help alleviate some of the rubbing concerns.