0W20 Oil?

The real question is what the hell is a 2 year warranty on an oil filter and why DGXR is advertising it. All motorcraft parts come with a 2 year warranty and that is just something generic that I guess their site shows for motorcraft made items. The warranty says it excludes "parts that are replaced as a part of normal maintenance" so pretty much no warranty on this, unless the oil filter through some bizarre situation has a premature failure. Just throw an OEM filter on the truck and be done with it. You can buy OEM filters in packs of 10 for like 44 bucks shipped. Thats 4.40 per filter and it excludes time and money going out to buy filters.

 

Motorcraft filters are built by Purolator. Difference is a thicker media and top mounted by-pass valve. I'm running the FL-400S which filters better than the USA OEM (Champion Labs) filters and way better than the Toyota Thailand filters. Only OEM worth the money is the original DENSO filter from Japan that looks like sponge media.

Mobil 1 and K&N are the same oil filters just different paint.
Toyota Thailand is 50% efficient at 40 microns.
Toyota (Champion Labs) 40 micron absolute (absolute is equal to 98% efficient) Wichita is a little better.
Motorcraft is rated at 30 micron absolute as per Ford's requirements.

30 microns = .00117"
40 microns = .00156"

This may not seem like much of a difference but it is world's of difference when it comes to bearing clearances. One particle could slip past while the other could collide with the bearing and cause accelerated wear.

 

I wouldn't loose sleep over 0.00039". It's a little 4 cyl truck engine, it's not a high tolerance racing motor revving a 14000k rpm. As long as there's some oil, a filter and no "chunks of metal with part numbers on them" floating around, i'm pretty sure she'll keep on chugging along. On the other side of things, a lower micron filter will restrict flow for longer on cold starts leaving the relief valve open for longer and letting unfiltered oil through the engine. Engine reliability has never been a huge problem with Toyotas so i'm sure their filter is just fine but then again maybe I've been drinking too much of the "kool-aid"

 

Lots of "kool-aid" lol.

Bearing clearances update in about 20 min. Yes they are tighter than you think.

Update.

Crankshaft journal oil clearance:
STD NO. 3: 0.00012" to 0.0022"
STD OTHERS: 0.0009 to 0.0019
Maximum: 0.0039"

So 40 microns = 0.00156"
30 microns = 0.00117"

Toyota has been slacking in the oil filtration department if you ask me.

A 30 micron filter element keeps you within the nominal window for wear. The 40 micron places you on the outer limit.
Any larger and it will embed itself into the bearing metals or begin removing them.

40 micron factory filter is not very efficient at capturing particulates either.

I'll stick with the Motorcraft FL-400S.

 

A tighter media doesn't necessarily translate instantly to a better filter. If the mesh is TOO tight, it will just plug up and send EVERYTHING through the bypass.

 

This is true but chances of this happening within a typical 5000 mile oil change intervals is fairly slim. Of course if it did happen I'd be more concerned with needing an R&R soon because the amount of particulates floating in the system would be absolutely ridiculous.
Some thing would definitely be wrong if you plugged a filter in 5000 miles.

 

2TR-FE has (finally) been upped to 10,000 miles on synthetic 0w20.
They made this change for the 2016+, but worded it in a way that makes it retroactive.
There haven't been any changes made to the 2TR-FE for 2016 that have any impact on this.

 

It may have been but with the TBN depletion at 7000 miles with Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic bordering additive package inactivity I'll stay below the 10,000 mile counter. My 2TR-FE is a 2005 production and even though I could run 0W-20 I would never stretch to 10k miles without an oil analysis. As for recommendations from several shop techs they still prefer a 5W-20 over a 0W-20. Also 0W-20 is for new CAFE requirements nothing more and only nets a marginal 1.5% gain or less in fuel efficiency. Most people never see the gains.

 

Mobile1 is crap oil.
And while you might not see any fuel efficiency improvement on 0w20 vs 5w20, you might just see a small difference with cold weather cranking.

 

How is Mobil 1 Synthetic crap oil?

5W-30 cold rating is down to -40 degrees and as an example 15W-40 is rated at 0 degrees.

 

Let me flip that around and ask you how it is any good....?

As for how its crap... the only time on any vehicles that I've seen the oil level drop below the "E" line on a dipstick, has been with mobile 1. Their other oils with the same branding are also garbage -- don't even think about putting mobile 1 MT gear oil in a manual transmission -- it will stop your synchros from working. Mobile 1 is, unfortunately, the most recognized BRAND NAME, but that's all it is -- a name. They cheapened down on the actual oil quality dramatically.

 

My engine internals are spotless after 120k miles of Mobil 1 Synthetic uses and the wear metal values are low. That's my proof.

Any lab samples to prove this?(asking open minded)

My oil level drop is due to consumption based on age and wear on my engine can't fault the oil in my case.

If I wanted better oil I'd fork over about 60 dollars for 6 quarts but it would still vanish due to consumption.
I do plan on trying out the new SOPUS 5W-30 and see where that leads. I've heard good stuff.

 

I'm providing you with observations, if you want to look more into it, that should be on your own time. Simply put, mobile1 oil has, in my experience, never met the requirements. As a result, I'll never use it again.
I'm currently using a store-brand 0w20 synthetic that costs about HALF of mobile1, and it's working just fine.

 

so the OCI for the 2016 2.7l has been extended to 10k miles? this great I was going to ask here if anyone uses the Mobil1 EP oil 0w20 for these 10k-15k OCIs? I have a 2013 and it seems changing the oil at 5k is way too early using full synthetic 0w20 and a pain in the ass too if you use the truck as a DDriver.

 

Yep, specifically, they have it printed in the 2016 *warranty* manual, in case you want to look it up.

 

Sorry you have been burned in the past. What house brand oil are you running? I'd like to check with the Petroleum Quality Institute to see if it met the API requirements or even Engine Manufacturers Association.

 

if you buy the Mobil1 at Walmart and use a rebate which are often available at times then you can buy 2 5qt. jugs for about $13N a piece , I actually talked a Walmart sales associate into reducing the price of the Mobil1 EP which is a few bucks more down to the reg. Mobil1 price.

 

cool im going 10k on mine from now own using Mobil1 EP

 

Yes, OCI has been extended to 10k. I'd recommend an oil analysis at 5k then 7500 to see where you stand before going the distance though. My engine sees high amounts of abuse so the TBN is usually wiped out or nearing inactivity with 7000 miles.
Never ran Mobil EP so I can't comment on it.

 

Nice move. My local clerks are jack wagons no such luck. Oil is cheap though so I'm not too worried.