JAKE's 06 SOLID AXLE SWAPPED DCLB EAF & BS build

Why. Why must you do this to me.

 

welp that was easy way to spend 460$

 

but now i will have a 320 amp alternator!!!!!! and i was promised that it will plug right in and run the exact same just with more power!! @thefatkid what would it take for youy to help me with the last half of the install? i mean if i took the old one out and mounted the new one can you tension it and all that or is it easy to do? also been thinking about spare parts resonantly, have you had any belts fail? would it be smart to get spare belts

 

I have not heard of a belt failing but I carry a spare anyways. That's an easy part to store.

I did witness at Rock Therapy the All Pro truck "Black Betty" somehow starting slipping the belt. Tyler the Canadian noticed it. Another day and it would have shredded completely.

 

i assume you picked one up from brian? what other spare parts do you carry? after kayla's problem with the fj driveshaft i think i should go get drive shaft and knuckle parts for every thing

 

Being a short bed I don't worry about the driveshaft so much but I do carry a spare U joint. Also I carry:

• 2 spare CV's
• Bamabuilt spare hub
  
• 1 inner tie rod and 2 outer tie rods
• lugnuts
• spare tire
  
• various key bolts and nuts
• lots of fluids some of which I need to replenish still

That's it off the top of my head. I am sure there is more I can carry but where exactly do you draw the line you know?

 

never draw the line!!!! hahah jk

for me it kinda depends on where i am going and how many is in the group,

like for moab i bring everything short of the welder and plasma just because i dont know what would brake or what some one else might need. and a lot of the things i carry most people dont so it is nice to know that some one has it.

 

Ok @thefatkid checked it an advanced auto. And the voltage on and off did not change once so ever. It read no voltage and flat on the graph. He said that was weird and normaly it says bad alternator or damaged or something. So i started looking at things and the black with blue 2-4 gauge wire that goes to the bent stud on the outside part of the fuse block looks burnt/ melted a few things around it and looks like its arced off a plate that the altenator fuse is on. The fuse is not popped and nothing afterwords looks burnt. Any ideas on that?

And when i put the 320amp alternator in i assume its just going to trip that alternator fuse? Is there a way around that? Can i bypass it and add my own inline fuse or is that incharge of telling it when to cycle the alternator? I would assume thats seperate but dont know.

 

What are you going to achieve with that monster alternator? Isn't it possible to over-amp a system?

 

From all the things I have read, no. The alternator cycles on and off when needed. It just puts out more faster so when the winch is running or the compressor is running it does not cycle the battery it can be supplied by the alternator instead. In theory putting fewer duty cycles on the battery's.

 

The tester might not pick up bad brushes....... But it looks like you might have found a connection issue. Tell me more (get pictures) of what you are talking about.


Alternator theory, follow along fellas.

The primary goal of an alternator is to hold 14 volts (about). It does this by an internal regulator that changes the electromagnetic field increasing or decreasing to get to the desired voltage. Strong magnetic field more amperage, weak is less amperage. A discharged battery or load on the system will request more from the alternator in the way of lower voltage causing the regulator to increase the amperage output that in turn raises the voltage back to nominal.

Could a alternator that has an output rated higher then stock blow the rated fuseable link, very much so. I think most people bypass that circuit when installing a heavy duty alternator. Not sure as I have never done this. I'm not sure I would trust the main alternator wire to handle more then double the rated current as the factory alternator can output. I have current test my alternator in the 4runner and it slams out 140 amps so I'm not too worried about an upgrade, I have not tested the Tundra yet.

 

I'll swing by tomorrow if that's ok and show you real fast. If you can tell me that I can bypass the fuse in the block then I will be doing so and I will be checking my amp charts on the welding cable that I have and upgrade if need be. But I don't know if that fuse in the block is by its self or has anything hooked to it for the voltage or cycling the alternator

 

You will definitely need a larger conductor going from an 130A (assuming you have tow package) to a 320A alternator unless the conductor was grossly oversized in the first place which I highly doubt.

 

I am planning on going to 0 wire, never even thought about keeping stock. I JUST NEED TO KNOW IF I CAN DO MY OWN INLINE FUSE OR IF I HAVE TO KEEP IT IN THE FUSE BLOCK!!

 

Honestly 1/0 wire might not even be large enough. I can tell you it wouldn't meet code for continuous use at 320A in a house for example. And yes, I know alternators don't run continuously. I must admit, I'm not sure what convention is used for alternator wire sizing. I would err on the side of caution though so you don't burn your truck down.

 

I think it will be more then enough but will check tomorrow. The 256 amp welder uses 0 wire at 25 foot lead. So i think I can use it at 320 for 2-3 feet. But again I'll check tomorrow

 

Not sure about your specific welder but most have a duty cycle less than 100%, that's all I'm saying. Also, length affects voltage more than amperage.

 

That is way more than enough. 12v not 110or220v