CBI Bolt on install instructions?

I swear ive seen something on here about it. I've emailed CBI a few days ago about obtaining some and hope to hear back soon.

I'm sure it's a simple afair however there are some smaller bolts and some square "shims"? included. Maybe for relocation of something on the frame?

I'd like to be 100% sure before I start so I can minimize my time in the 100+ degree heat here in Dallas.

Any insight or known threads I may have missed?

Thanks guys!

 

I purchased a CBI rear bumper a few years ago.
It bolted on exactly like the stock bumper.

 

CBI bolt on _____ ?

Bumper or sliders?

 

Sliders....

 

Why is it that so many thread starters think we can read their minds?

We have to ASS-UM-E significant details and spin our wheels needlessly.
This is why I rarely assist thread-starters who are too lazy to give complete information.

This post should be required reading for all those seeking help:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/suggestions-before-posting-for-help-in-tech-chat.291471/

 

Lol, no worries it happens.

I have CBI bolt on sliders on my truck (the kind that have u-shaped brackets (two bolt holes per bracket) that slide up under the frame and bolts that run on top of the frame ie no drilling holes required) , however I bought mine second hand so I I'd not receive any smaller bolts or shims as you mentioned.

If your truck is like mine, The passenger side should be very straightforward, I installed by myself, using a large floor jack and about a foot long piece of 4"x4" wooden post to jack up underneath the brackets shoving them over the frame (its a tight fit). I positioned the jack in the center of the slider, positioned the slider where I wanted along the frame then start lifting with the jack, eventually alternating under each of the four brackets to make sure each one is fully seated. Then its as simple as sliding the bolts through and tighten up the nuts.

Drivers side gets a little more interesting. On mine, the brake hard lines run along the frame, and are secured to the frame by plastic clips. There was some interference between the slider brackets and these brake lines/clips. I simply removed one or two of the brake line clips so the hard lines could be shifted out of the way so I could slide the brackets up and the bolts through. Also, near the gas tank you will have the same problem where the brake lines are in the way and also you may have trouble getting both bolts through the slider bracket closest to the gas tank. I only put one of the two bolts through that bracket and have bashed the crap out of my sliders with no problems.

It's not really that bad, and since you have those extra parts maybe installation might go easier for you. A second set of hands would go a long way, and I'd recommend safety glasses to keep the dirt that will inevitably fall in your eyes while working underneath.

Good luck! They're great quality sliders

 

Dude, please just point out the simple error and remain constructive. I want to bite, but I don't want to assume anything about ya and spin my wheels wasting my time.

That said I do appreciate you trying to help initially. Stay cool man.

 

Perfect! Thank you for the time it took to type all that. I am grateful. I'll follow up if I have anything else to add that can help someone else in my shoes...

 

No problem bud, hope it helps (that was all from memory from a couple years ago lol) and make sure to post up a picture of them after they're installed!

 

Ok, so it went about like you said although I'll add a few things. I'd start with the drivers side. Because of the hard lines and numerous things bolted to the frame there isn't much choice in the placement of the sliders here. So when you go to do the passenger side, you will have way more flexibility to be sure they are symmetrical on both sides as there is absolutely nothing bolted on the frame to limit you here.

Position the sliders just as stated above on the drivers side then crawl under and look at what is there. You'll see where everything should be aligned. If you look at the front of the frame where the forward most bracket will slide up the frame there is a small spot between a bolt for the fuel lines and the cross member. That's where the sliders need to be positioned. Mine just missed that bolt by 1/8 inch. The square "tabs" I got along with the longer bolts will relocate a few of these hard line retainers for the fuel lines, and allow the slider some room to live in. I'd remove the bolts and put the tabs in after the install. You'll want a second set of eyes and hands to move things out of the way as you press them up the frame. I installed mine alone and had a few hiccups because I didn't see some things happening.

When you crawl up under the truck be sure to watch the wiring harness that runs along the top of the frame rail. There are some plastic retainers that are secured into the top of the frame between the body and the frame that will interfere with the bolts on the middle two brackets, maybe the back two? They will not pop out, it's too tight to remove w/o removing the bed. I just pried the harness out of the tab and had to figure out how to get those plastic "retainers" out of the way. They are taped into the harness and the harness can be removed from them with some careful prying/cutting the electrical tape. If you don't remove or move the harness the sliders will pinch between the bracket and the body. Ask me how I know. Using the jack technique to "press" the brackets onto the frame...well lets just say the bolts are almost not necessary as it is a very tight fit and simply moving the bracket down by lowering the jack is NOT going to happen. You will need a pry bar and a shit ton of work. Ask me how I know. (This was because I was trying to get the passenger side to match the drivers and missed the mark by 1/2 inch or more. So off they came... There has to be a BFH smiley.

So with the passenger side I'd say measure 5 times from a spot on the drivers that can be used on the passenger side for placement (I used the cross member). Then mark a line up the frame where the bracket is supposed to be and use that as a reference as you start to press the slider up the frame. Go slow, the slider likes to shift. Press each bracket up a little at a time watching your mark. Stop and now measure all the other brackets for comparison if you can. If possible use two jacks on the end brackets and go up at the same time. I didn't do any of this and I got it within 1/4 inch, but only after pressing them all the way on, realizing that I was 1/2 to 3/4 inch off the first time. Out came the pry bar...on freshly painted sliders. Luckly I didn't mar them up too badly, but it was a lot of work. Oh, the front bracket on the passenger side required bolts that were 1/2 inch longer as they would not protrude out the other side. I failed to notice the slight difference in length of a few bolts. I had to go and remove a couple that I used in the wrong place, and switch some stuff around. So mark the longer ones before you start and use them as needed. Luckily tightening the bolts are the easy part. I had no issues with the back bracket by the gas tank. It's tight but not terrible.

That's about it. Alone it took 3 hours. Could have been less w/o the snafu's.