TRD supercharger

Checked the oil too?

 

Drained the oil before I even attempted to purge water via pulling the plugs. Got and I'm not exaggerating, close to 4 gallons of water outta the oil drain plug BEFORE I even started to see oil come out. Turned engine over, oil/water shot out of plug holes, then refilled with oil. After electronics dry, I will try to get it running for an hour, then change oil again till I get non milky results

 

4 gallons is astounding! Smart man. Keep us updated and I truly hope all goes well.

To reduce the chance of bearing wear during first start up, I will suggest this if you haven't yet thought of it.

Keep the spark plugs out, remove the fuel pump relay, remove the oil filter, and crank by hand until oil starts to come out of the oil filter plate. Install filter, and crank by hand a little while longer. That should get it into the heads and back to the crank.

With fuel pump relay and spark plugs still removed, then crank with key. After a few seconds of cranking, your engine should be primed.

However, I have a strong hunch that those notes are redundant and you know what you are doing.

 

I cranked it by hand after the oil change to help lube up the internals already. I'll crank it by hand again tomorrow till I get to the oil filler plate though. Today I just turned it about 30 full turns of the crank shaft. Didn't really have an idea how much to turn it but that was the number I picked. Do you mean to pull the fuel pump relay itself or the efi relay?

 

The fuel pump relay itself. If it is like my 06, then it will be a brown relay. This will prevent load from the combustion process off of the rotating assembly until lubricated.

One method to determine when it is primed, is when after extended cranking, the Oil pressure light goes off.

Then add plugs and relay, and start it up.

 

On my 09, the fuel pump relay is a tall brown relay too so ya, its the same as your 06. I'm cranking it over with the supercharger right off the truck that way the plugs on the drivers side are accessible.

 

That'll work.

 

It's running and sounds good. Had 6 codes I cleared and they haven't returned. Just the airbag light now and a blinker that won't shut off

 

With the 2.8 pulley, afe intake, urd headers, my afr is lower then 11 everytime at WOT. If this is the case would it be bad to move to the 2.7?

 

No? A smaller pulley is gonna get more air in there and probably pop you up in to the 11s

 

Yeah Im aware but maybe there is something that someone knows that I dont.

 

Uhhh. You'll get more horsepower. TBH once you move past the 2.85 pulley and start popping the horsepower up more its highly recommended you get some sort of tuning software involved. Otherwise you can run the risk of blowing an engine up or doing some sort of damage because you're trying to up the horsepower without adjusting the Air/fuel/timing/whatevs and that can lead to boom.

 

Hey jeff
Did you find what was leaking at ur gas tank?

 

No, Im killing my gas tank this week so I can drop it next week on vacation and find out what the fuck is up lol

 

Maybe i can save you a little work b4 u go crazy droppin the tank. Double check the fill & vent hose's where the clamps are by the rear wheel, maybe ull get lucky.

 

When u said that it started leaking when the nozzle clicked, it was the first thing i thought of.

 

As I said, all visible connections are leak free. I checked everything I could reach, its something up on top of the tank

 

Have you lifted the bed to work on the tank?
I think its easier than droppin the tank. I wish i could have when i did my fuel pump but i had 3 full size bed boxes attached. Big pain in the ass. I did it twice cause the float arm came of the switch after 2 weeks.
I feel ur pain.

 

Yeaaaahhh Long travel bed cage and relocated battery box in bed and RTT mounted on Bed means dropping the tank is like 1000x easier.

 

Yup
Like i said, big pain n the ass, those connections on top of the tank are just awkward.