Oregon and Washington BS thread

Handy Mike and his BEEFCAKE UCAS and LCA's

 

Looks good! Wish I could have made it out.

 

Mike, since you like to research the shit out of everything you put on your truck before putting it on, why did you decide on the dirt king LCA? Did you also do DK UCA too?

 

Yeah, been trying to navigate the river of life and my inner tube seems to have a leak.

I bought the

$70 VIAIR 85P - 00085 Tire Inflator Portable Air Compressor for Car, Truck & SUV 12V On/Offroad Tire Pump Air Compressor Portable Heavy Duty 60 PSI, Cigarette Plug, Twist Chuck

VIAIR 85P, which works just fine for me. I also made my own cigarette lighter extension, but here's a premade one.

I probably should have gotten the

$83 VIAIR 88P - 00088 Tire Inflator Portable On/Offroad Air Compressor for Car, Truck, SUV & RV | 12V Heavy Duty Pump 120 PSI, Alligator Clip, Twist Chuck

88P for just a few dollars more for the extra CFM. Also here's a VIAIR pressure gauge.

And - I missed Mike's Mod-day Meetup. Drat.

 

Hi guys new to this site, and im from Tillamook Oregon. Was wondering if that air compressor the (88p) can be hooked up to the outlet in the bed of truck? Heres a pic of my truck. Mines the blue one.

 

I'm looking at the 88p and in pretty certain it hooks to your battery. Not a dc outlet

 

Aren't they both blue? Or is the lifted one black? And our bed outlets can't really power up anything man. Need to charge your cell phone? Go for it. I tried hooking a hair dryer to it awhile ago with no luck.

Totally off topic but I'll have to be staying at Tillamook for atleast once a week come mid September through early November - cheapest motel I found was $80/night. Know of any place cheaper? I'll be there at the hospital Monday, Tuesday, and Fridays.

 

Hell yeah dude! You all signed up already for this year?

 

Lol no his is closer and gives the appearance of being higher but we both have 6" pro comp lift. He also has 35" tires to my 33". But mines blue and his is black anyway that sucks on the plug in pretty much useless then. As far as the hotel western royal is the cheapest and next cheapest would be econo lodge in Garibaldi which isn't to far from tillamook.

 

I have DK uppers as well, as you can see below.
I went with DK because:

• the price was better than most
• I liked that they re-used the ball joint cup, while others do not. Seems like Toyota added that as a safety feature for our gens, why would I want to remove it?
• I could have done heimed uppers, but I was intimidated by the maintenance and the possible issues with alignment shops not knowing what they were doing with it. If I were really concerned, I would buy the ICON billet arms since they are capable of on-vehicle adjustments. Everyone else requires you to dismount the UCA to adjust the heim. However, the ICON arms are literally double the cost. I can live with poly and just make sure to grease the zerk.
• I originally thought the delrin lower bushings would be a great thing, but I've heard mixed stories - some say they are very hard and can cause a lot of transfer of energy (you feel those hard bumps if you are launching), whereas others say they aren't a big deal and add longevity. I think that I can always take them out for poly if I don't like it.
• I think they are purty.

So far, I've driven about 6 miles to the grocery store and back. The alignment is goofy as hell (expected), the steering tightened up a lot (probably because I don't have puking BJs), and I have a funny bouncy feel in the front as if the valving is set too hard. I wonder if that last bit is the bad alignment or that I tried playing with preload - I did a quarter turn less on the driver, didn't set it back. Doesn't seem like that would be enough to change much. It's a super pain to change and I'm just played out on toying with it, so I'll be looking at what the cost is from LCNW.

I'm at about 3 threads on the shock and I need less preload or a near-pointless limit strap to just keep a smidgen of droop from maxing the uniball.
For uptravel, I wanted to take out the spring and test where the shock bottomed out so I could set the bump stop spacers, but I don't have the tools to get that spring off. Without setting the bump stomp height correct, I could damage the shocks. Yet another point for letting LCNW do the tough work.

The picture should be with me still on a jack stand. You can see where full droop is maxing the uppper uniball.

This. All units are going to be like that.

Hair dryers take a crap ton of power, so that's a pretty unfair thing to try, man.
There's a thread around here listing out what people have successfully tried. I know there's one guy who found a one-cup coffee maker that worked.

You could rent a yurt at Cape Lookout State Park for $45, that's the best I have for you.

 

Thanks for the help yesterday. I had Blair helping me today and it still took us about 4 hours even without removing the shock. I think it's almost easier without the shock in there because you can hook up to the spindle much easier.

I also beat the living hell out of my elbow on the tip of the slider, then later that day I got dirt in my eye while I smashed my head on the cab mount. Elbow still hurts. The joys of DIY sometimes are... immeasurable.

 

Chickenmunga couldn'the you just measure the amout of shock shaft you have at ride height. And the space between the bumpstop and pad?
I'm not saying that's the ultimate way but if you have let's say an inch more shaft then room on ur bump that would be more the enough to compensate for the bump squishing and put your mind at ease.

 

That's probably a better way than I was calculating; I was trying to do the whole assembly and subtract out the parts that had a fixed length. At one time I had the number written down for how much the bump squished down to as well.
For this weekend I was just done. For superbumps, you have to use a hex key wrench and loosen/tighten. You can't use a socket because it gets trapped up inside, and you can't get the hex key up in there with the arm in the way. The thought of having to drop the arm down again was just too much. It will be fine for pavement and I'll just have it done when the preload gets adjusted since they probably have to drop the arm anyway.


I should also add that I wasn't anticipating getting any time to do truck things today. I was supposed to be at work busting my brains, but our dev hadn't finished some key work. I will probably regret not having done more test work that was on my plate, but I kind of want my truck back on the road.

 

The 85 is designed to plug into the cigarette lighter inside the truck. The 88 like most others is designed to clamp directly onto the battery terminals. These are both designed to run on 12vdc power. Between those 2 compressors, I would highly suggest you look to the 88 or anything that clamps onto the battery terminals, not one the plugs in to the cigarette ligh. The outlet in the bed is 120vac and has dual output. The low output is 110 watt or about 1 amp of power. High output is 400 watt which is about 3.5 amps. Trying to run more than that will trip a breaker on the inverter and cause it to automatically shut off.

Not yet. My older brother started a team and I just heard from him that he is set to have a hernia surgery soon. I asked if he will be able to do TM, and he said e may be running with us, but walking around the obstacles.

Thanks Mike. I'm just thinking of using your research to my on ends because I am that lazy.

 

So I ordered a tv and wall mount from Amazon last week and its all cool and no problems. Amazon randomly refunded the order today and I didn't try to send it back or anything...free tv I guess?

Welcome! I swear that looks like the blimp hangar area...

 

yes I work at the sawmill and we use a part of the blimp hangar as our dry storage.

 

ok so I did some searching on this site for a retrofiy diy in 2nd gen tacomas and came up with nothing. Does anyone know of a thread that has diy of retrofits want to order what I need and try the install myself.Picture for reverence.

 

There's a bunch of stuff over in the lighting section but here are a couple places to start

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-retrofit-source-ongoing-gb-via-andrew-trs.262802/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-d2s-bi-xenon-projector-install-guide.373017/

I've thought about doing retrofits for a while... which I probably should've done the first time I took my lights apart to do the BHLM. But oh well what's another run through the oven with them going to hurt

 

Awesome thanks im ordering some cheap ebay headlights while I do this mod so I have time to do it right. Gonna be a fun project.

 

Haha I thought it looked familiar. I worked for Stimson as a forester for a bit and spent part of the time working out of the Tillamook office.