O2 simulator question

I'm thinking of getting some DT long tube headers on urd w/ the o2 simulator but it says only rear o2 simulator.

Do u only need the rear sim or is there and do u have to have a front sim?

 

That is all you need.

 

I have clogged cats and to replace with OEM, would be close to $800

 

With having the o2 sim, do your o2 sensors have to be in good working order?
Because mine r bad

 

Are you certain yours are bad? Yes they have to be in good order.

 

Just making sure, yes they are bad. All test show them to be shot

 

Yeah I know, I plan on buying new AF o2 sensors.

 

Front or upper o2 s are wide band and control what comes out of your engine.Rears are narrow band and fine tunes after cats and keep fronts in check.

 

I have some for sale if you are interested. Asking $300 for the pair. You would have to cap off the air injection nozzle or cut it off and weld it shut. Since mine are off of a 2013.

 

Just need the single O2 simulator. Since you have a 2006 you should be fine.

The Sim didn't work on my 2015. I'm talking with URD about replacing mine with one programmed differently. They basically told me, after I ordered it from them and had it installed, that it doesn't work on new models.

 

They need to work I'm pretty sure. The O2 Simulator just tricks the rear sensor into believing it's reading as if a front cat was in place. So the sensors stay in the truck. It just misleads it on the air results (my understanding anyhow).

 

What codes do the fronts and rears throw? And would bad cats and bad sensors throw the same codes?

 

If the front o2s are bad u will get code p0031 and or p0051.
The rear would throw a diff code.

 

@ktitty, do u have jba on a full stock exhaust system?
I can't find a sound clip any where.
I need it to prove to my wire that it's not going to be lond and sound like shit.
Can any one help?

 

Nope. I've got URD Spec-U with a Spintech 6000 Muffler, 12" Vibrant Resonator (because without it the sound was HORRIBLE), K&N CAI, and custom crossover.

 

In my case, without the front cats and using the URD O2 Simulator, I'm throwing:

P0139
P013A (Left)
P013C (Right)
P0159

All four report a "Slow" O2 Sensor or a slow Rich to Lean O2 reading. So basically, it's not calibrating the air readings properly between heavy throttle and low throttle (open fuel injectors vs closed). Gadget @ URD says it has to do with the way the newer Tacomas are programmed.

 

OK thx, I bought the jba and sim anyways.
I don't plan on going any further then that on the exhaust but it's cheaper then buying OEM replacements.

 

Has anyone moved the rear O2 sensors behind the rear cats? In theory it should fix the sim need/problems, right?