The JBL upgrade they didn't want you to have

That's what I figured

 

Thought I would add a little info as I wait for my gear to come in. I've got a plan to NOT cut or tap the factory wire harness. I got the two female plugs for the factor amp (90980-10801 10-pin and 90980-10803 12-pin). From the dealership they were roughly $10 a piece. Now I needed the wire/pins to put in the plug... $8/each from the dealership. OUCH!! Needing 20ish this would run upwards to $180+.

Checking out the Scion FR-S forums (working a stereo upgrade on my wife's car) I got an idea to try the

$12 Metra 71-1761 87-94 Toyota Vehicle Harness

Metra 71-1761 and

$8 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness Fits Select 1987-UP Toyota Vehicles Power + 4 Speaker (Packaging May Vary)

70-1761 harness. This comes with a 10-pin and 6-pin connectors. The 10 pin fits the Tacoma factory amp 10-pin. To test I wired these harnesses up and plugged into the 10-pin location on the factor amp and harness. It worked.



So that's half of my solutions. For the life of me, I have not been able to find the reverse 12-pin male connector to plug back into the factory harness. If you know of one I'd be interested.

I re-pinned the Metra female plug to match the output on the factory amp. I would have used the OEM 10-pin connector from the dealership but the wires were a little loose. For the 12-pin OEM connector I might use some silicone to hold them in tighter. Anyway... back to the 10-pin harness. I used the wire diagram but created a different color scheme for the wires... color for positive and color/black for the negative connections with red and yellow for the two 12V power wires.



My plan is to grab the audio signals post factory amp with the two home made harnesses (10-pin and 12-pin). Note nothing is needed from the 24-pin connector except maybe remote turn-on. For the two power wires coming to the amp on the 10-pin I plan to run new power (20 amp fuse). For the two grounds coming from the 12-pin I plan to run new ground. With new speaker wires all around, I shouldn't need to tie back into the factory harness.

That's my current plan subject to change... especially if I can find the reverse 12-pin male connector at which point I might decide not the run new speaker wire.

 

Would love to see that if you have any pics. Gonna check the previous pages in case I missed something.

 

Not sure if I posted a pic of that specifically but the amp sits flush behind that part of the enclosure, just used a few L-brackets and the screws that were on the amp

 

Forgive all the questions, did you also cut the stock amp brackets to retain the tabs that hold the circuit board? And did you attach the L-brackets the back of the amp rack or on the rear wall?

 

90980–10513 just might be the male connector for the 12 pin. Not having one to try, I'm not sure.

 

I remember having to unscrew some stuff so I had just the amp without the brackets. The L-brackets attach to the amp rack on the backside.

 

You got a source on that part number? I come up with "part not found" and "discontinued". I tried looking at www.toyotaparts.metro-toyota.com and www.toyotapartsdeal.com. Local dealership was a strike out as well.

I searched your part number and ran across a couple more part numbers that look like they may work but still no luck.
http://94supraturbos.synthasite.com/resources/95_TSRM_PDF_FILES/Wire Harness.pdf

Still looking but not the end of the world if I can't find it. It's probably starting to be more bull headed challenge.

 

I've contacted a company I use for connectors to see if they can get one. Also asked for a 90980-10803 specific male plug. I'll let you know.

 

You may can run these parts numbers when you talk to you source.... 90980-10864 and 90980-10802 (probably smaller wire?).

Also if they can cross reference then it might be worth it to know the 10 pin male connector for 90980-10801. The Metra harness for aftermarket stereo works but might be good to know the Toyota number.

Thanks for the help on this.

 

@kenrickv. Check pm.

 

I must have a different version of the stock amp than you. If i remove the brackets from the amp housing, the board world fall right out. You can see in the second pic, where my thumb is, there are two "ears" bent inward that hold that side of the board. Seemingly, my only option is to cut the legs off the brackets. Something i very much do not want to do.

 

I did have to slide the board out and take out some screws then put it back together. I don't quite remember the process but it was pretty simple. Throw up some more pics of the amp and I'll try to help

 

same, here... had to slide out one end to undo do a couple screws which attach the bracket directly to the board, but without it, the board isn't supported by anything on that end. I'm pretty certain, on some models, the brackets used to mount the amp to the sub box and the end plates are completely separate pieces. So you can remove the brackets without disturbing the integrity of the board.

Not my pic, but this is exactly what I have. You can see the plate that surrounds the plugs is one piece with the mounting bracket. I squared the screws that attach to the board.

 

My god I'm so glad my truck didn't have jbl....

 

Wish I could just find the end plates off another model. Looks like a direct replacemtn for the bracketed version and no more relocation issues.

 

Why in the hell would they have 2 different plates for the same thing?

 

@Denk what year is your truck?

 

2013. Hard to believe the design would be so different over a few years.

 

Yeah no shit. Maybe you could fab one up out of some thin steel?