*Official* Ask A Detailer Thread

well since I haven't really cared all to much, I use water sent through a water softener at our shop. I use the newest turtle wax soap with a generic car wash hand thing, I wash it after every time I clean the truck. Besides the point, I have all of the stuff such as compounds and wheels and orbitals, everything, it's just I don't want to burn through a clear coat or anything. Its never been through an automatic wash and dirt never sits on it for a long period of time. I took off a decal that was on the door since new and the paint is unbelievably nice there, I can get some pictures of the paint where the sticker was compared to the rest of the truck.

 

this is what I am talking about.

 

If real dirty I run through a manual spray wash with water only. Then when I get it home I soak/suds it down with Mequires soap through a Orkin hose end sprayer before I wash with a quality microfiber mitt. I do sectioning at a time, usually top down but wash only front to back direction, no circles (swirls). I wash in the shade only. I blow it off with a gas powdered leaf blower instead of wiping it down. Dab what little water if left with a quality microfiber towel. The reason for all this: It's a black truck so it shows more issues that other colors.

 

If using a DA or orbital it will be really hard to burn through clear. What equipment, polishes/compounds, pads do you have?

 

I have access to literally any 3m compound there is and polishes. Just a matter of what to use and how to use it.

 

3M only make polishes for rotary (that I am aware of)...if you never used one before... it's not for novice unless you want to risk burning paint. DA polisher will not get hot enough to make the 3M product work right. You use a rotary too long on one spot or use too much speed and you will burn paint from what I read...not from experience.

 

I wash every week but work at a steel mill and there tons of shit that comes from the smoke stacks and messes the paint up.
I noticed even with washing every week my windows had some harrrd stains on them. Vinigar n water didnt do a thing, I tried the razor on a small spot on my caps rear window. I DONT RECOMMEND THE RAZOR TECHNIQUE it leaves straight lined scratches. Good thing i used on a small area.
Stopped at canadian tire and picked up some BARKEEPERS FRIEND. tested it on half the rear window last night and checked it out today in the sun.
It worked very well, no scratches, the tinted window looks deep black again instead of white residue water spotted. I had to scrub a lil more than in this video, but I can even feel the smoothness compared to the unwashed side when ran my hand over.
So ya it worked for me, now i just have to do alllll the windows

 

i have used it just not with a deep cut or anything. no worries there, just any tips and tricks are welcome, thanks!

 

Hey All I need some serious help. I goofed up big time!

I had superglued a couple things yesterday and thought they were dry and left them on my passenger seat over night (cause I was taking them to work today). Well I guess they weren't?! Now I have what appear to be stains from the fumes (I don't see any shiny or whitish glue residue) on my seat. I have cloth seats.

How do I removed the stain without damaging the seat?!?! Any recommendations???

I am super upset cause it's my brand new truck and I seriously feel like an idiot for leaving it there.

Thank you!!!!

 

I googled and youtubed and suggestion is to use nail polish remove with acetone but not straight acetone. This sounds very harsh and most likely make it worse. If I was in your shoes I would do a few options...call a detailer and ask for help. Use a gentle all purpose cleaner and toothbrush and rinse with distilled water. Tap water may leave mineral stains. I wouldn't soak your seat, but damp and then pat dry. Another option is to try the nail polish remover with acetone, but risk removing the dyes from the fabric. Last option is to leave it as is. Best case is to test it on a spot of the seat that no one sees and see if it will damage your seat fabric and try the various options I mentioned...I never had glue on seat, so I can't help..I got paint on my shorts and using alcohol and acetone did lighten the fabric on my shorts.

 

Might check with the dealer to see if they can get just the material and replace the cover on the seat. If not check with upholstery shop.

 

Any tips on cleaning Wet Okole seat covers?

 

Quick question regarding claying and sealant - Do I need to remove the sealant on my vehicle before claying, or will the clay remove the sealant as well? I use Meguire's 2.1 sealant, and have purchased the recommended Meguire's Smooth Clay kit.

I'll also be taking care of my brand new Tacoma this weekend, is it generally necessary to clay it when it's brand new? Thanks!

 

Others more knowledgable than I will comment further but the clay should remove the old sealant.

Some claim the paint will get contaminants when shipped on rail and truck and not sure how long it sits at the plant before shipped. So its a good idea to clay. It shouldn't take long, maybe 45 minutes at the most for a new truck.

 

Great, Thank you!

 

Ok, another question - If I decide to add a wax for shine after my sealant, next time I want to wash and seal the truck do I need to clay bar and start over? Or can I just wash and seal same as if I'd never used the wax?

Thanks,
Chris

 

You will have to remove the old wax and sealant. You can do it with clay, some people do it with Dawn dish soap(some don't recommend this) and there are product made for this also.

 

Sealant needs bare paint to adhere. Really depends upon how often you want to wash and seal. Along with what sealant are you using. Most last around 6 months or longer.

 

Damn. I want the longer protection of the sealant and the look of a good wax, but I'm really hoping to only clay 1-2x a year.

Does this mean that if I seal my car, wash once or twice, then the third wash I want to reseal, I should clay again as well? Or in that case could I use sealant on sealant? Thanks for the info!

 

You can put wax on top of sealant for the wax look.

Why would you want to seal it after 3 washes? Unless you are only washing it once every 2 months then 3 washes would be 6 months and time for sealant again. After you apply the sealant you can wash and wax every week if you want. Here's what I do. Wash, clay, polish(optional), sealant and then wax if you want. If you wash it every week or 2 weeks you can still wax it once a month or once every 2 months. When its time for sealant again you will have to remove the old wax and sealant.