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Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Discussion in 'Solid Axle Suspension' started by Supra TT, Feb 20, 2012.

  1. Aug 8, 2016 at 5:34 AM
    #7441
    Large

    Large Red

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    what axles do you have?
     
  2. Aug 8, 2016 at 7:53 AM
    #7442
    rctoy

    rctoy It's about to get real!!!

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    konstantenos
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    First gen 4door monster in progress
    TRD super charger, URD fuel mods and 2.1 super grip pully, Headers, 2.5" glass pack, Dana 60 front 4 linked, 14bolt rears on chev 63's, 5.38 gears, ARB locker in the front, PSC full hydraulic steering, 18" SAW 2.5" triple rate coils overs, FOA 2.5 air bumps, B&M launch controls, B&M trans cooler, 4 alpine 6X8 type R's amped, Red led rock lights, CBI front and rear bumpers (my design) CBI sliders, 4 riggid dualys front 2 in the rear, custom track bar, ARB snorkle, warn VR8000 winch, Viair 480c twin compressers..
    It really depends on the track if the dirt is packed and hard I'll run like 15psi in the rear and 10 in the front but I'd it's soft I'll run 8 in the rear and 5 up front
     
  3. Aug 8, 2016 at 7:59 AM
    #7443
    Jerry311SD

    Jerry311SD Well-Known Member

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    Ramona Ca SAN DIEGO
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    2019 tacoma TRD Quicksand
    KDMaxx tune K&N drop in AFE catback Oil catch can Bill's 6112/5160 Dynomat whole inside of cab TRD skid plate

    Damm! Thats Bitchin!
     
    bayareataco[QUOTED] likes this.
  4. Aug 8, 2016 at 8:13 AM
    #7444
    rctoy

    rctoy It's about to get real!!!

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    konstantenos
    Pocatello Idaho
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    First gen 4door monster in progress
    TRD super charger, URD fuel mods and 2.1 super grip pully, Headers, 2.5" glass pack, Dana 60 front 4 linked, 14bolt rears on chev 63's, 5.38 gears, ARB locker in the front, PSC full hydraulic steering, 18" SAW 2.5" triple rate coils overs, FOA 2.5 air bumps, B&M launch controls, B&M trans cooler, 4 alpine 6X8 type R's amped, Red led rock lights, CBI front and rear bumpers (my design) CBI sliders, 4 riggid dualys front 2 in the rear, custom track bar, ARB snorkle, warn VR8000 winch, Viair 480c twin compressers..

    Finaly the rear 14 bolt arb
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2016
    Boomtacoma01, Ugly Betty and SMKYTXN like this.
  5. Aug 8, 2016 at 8:32 AM
    #7445
    bullaculla

    bullaculla IKA fabrications

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    Da big big island!
    Vehicle:
    2013 MGM DCSB Tacoma 4X4 TRD Off Road
    All pro 3 link SAS kit, Diamond axle, kings on 37" MTR/K
    Just the diamond up front and stock rear for now. Gotta recoop a little before I spend money on the rear.
     
    bayareataco and Large[QUOTED] like this.
  6. Aug 8, 2016 at 11:07 AM
    #7446
    Large

    Large Red

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    How much did the diamond run you if you don't mind me asking? And what options did you go with? Also what is the width? Sorry for the question bomb lol
     
  7. Aug 8, 2016 at 12:08 PM
    #7447
    bullaculla

    bullaculla IKA fabrications

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    Da big big island!
    Vehicle:
    2013 MGM DCSB Tacoma 4X4 TRD Off Road
    All pro 3 link SAS kit, Diamond axle, kings on 37" MTR/K
    No problem!
    With shipping to Hawaii, was around $6800. 4.88 gears, arb air locker, I'll be re using my factory rotors and calipers. Not sure on the exact width, It's about 4" wider than stock.
    image.jpg
     
  8. Aug 8, 2016 at 12:50 PM
    #7448
    Large

    Large Red

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    Sick. I like diamond axles really is why I asked.. Thx for info
     
    bullaculla[QUOTED] likes this.
  9. Aug 8, 2016 at 2:20 PM
    #7449
    bullaculla

    bullaculla IKA fabrications

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    Da big big island!
    Vehicle:
    2013 MGM DCSB Tacoma 4X4 TRD Off Road
    All pro 3 link SAS kit, Diamond axle, kings on 37" MTR/K
    Thanks! I think it's the standard Toyota gears so 8" diff. I'm not going over 37" tires, and mostly just dirt trails here.
     
  10. Aug 9, 2016 at 8:46 AM
    #7450
    rctoy

    rctoy It's about to get real!!!

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    konstantenos
    Pocatello Idaho
    Vehicle:
    First gen 4door monster in progress
    TRD super charger, URD fuel mods and 2.1 super grip pully, Headers, 2.5" glass pack, Dana 60 front 4 linked, 14bolt rears on chev 63's, 5.38 gears, ARB locker in the front, PSC full hydraulic steering, 18" SAW 2.5" triple rate coils overs, FOA 2.5 air bumps, B&M launch controls, B&M trans cooler, 4 alpine 6X8 type R's amped, Red led rock lights, CBI front and rear bumpers (my design) CBI sliders, 4 riggid dualys front 2 in the rear, custom track bar, ARB snorkle, warn VR8000 winch, Viair 480c twin compressers..
    :eek::eek: That's a lot of cheese. That's two fully built Dana 60's on the main land. I do understand you gotta do what you gotta do.

    this is all true stuff. Just putting this out there. I ran a mini truck axle with a 8" HP diff with 5.29's and never broke the diff just a chromo axle here and there while on 37's and wheeling like an asshole.
     
  11. Aug 10, 2016 at 10:23 PM
    #7451
    1999RegCab

    1999RegCab Well-Known Member

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    3-link SAS
    Two "fully" built D60s for that price? That's pushing it. Ok, maybe if you start off with free axles.

    But the average junk yard high pinion Ford kingping price seems around $800-1,200. People always say they can get them for 100 bux but I never ran across one that cheap (talking about the Ford ones)

    Add chromo shafts and joints and that's another grand...(make it 2 grand with RCVs). Add gears, install kit, ARB w/compressor and labor to set the gears and that's another two grand easily. Add steering, brakes, knuckles, hubs, etc....another grand.

    It adds up but a d60 will certainly cheaper than a diamond at the end.
     
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  12. Aug 11, 2016 at 10:50 AM
    #7452
    rctoy

    rctoy It's about to get real!!!

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    konstantenos
    Pocatello Idaho
    Vehicle:
    First gen 4door monster in progress
    TRD super charger, URD fuel mods and 2.1 super grip pully, Headers, 2.5" glass pack, Dana 60 front 4 linked, 14bolt rears on chev 63's, 5.38 gears, ARB locker in the front, PSC full hydraulic steering, 18" SAW 2.5" triple rate coils overs, FOA 2.5 air bumps, B&M launch controls, B&M trans cooler, 4 alpine 6X8 type R's amped, Red led rock lights, CBI front and rear bumpers (my design) CBI sliders, 4 riggid dualys front 2 in the rear, custom track bar, ARB snorkle, warn VR8000 winch, Viair 480c twin compressers..
    Well yeah if you're paying people to set shit up then yes it will be more but even assuming you bought an axle at $1200 you could still damn near build two.
    I bought:
    premium warn 35spline warn hubs for $100
    Arb for $1,100
    Dana gears with install kit $328
    Chromo axle's with joints from yukon for $1200

    So yeah not quite two but still that's a lot of cheese.
     
  13. Aug 11, 2016 at 4:54 PM
    #7453
    Boomtacoma01

    Boomtacoma01 Well-Known Member

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    It does add up quickly no matter what you build. I built my Chevy 60 for right at 4000 and my 14B for 1700. It's only money and you only live once.
     
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  14. Aug 11, 2016 at 5:40 PM
    #7454
    SGTCap

    SGTCap Well-Known Member

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    Summerville, SC
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    4x4 6-spd,
    37s, 4x4 6-spd, OME 886s, Allpro Expos, SOS sliders and front/rear bumpers,Rack,Skids, 4.56s, Lockers,Recon Winch, TJM RTT, Lots of tools, boxes and gear. Shaggy mutt behind the seat
    Is it really worth upgrading the axle shafts in a Dana 60/14 bolt combo? Are the stock shafts prone to breakage?
     
  15. Aug 11, 2016 at 8:25 PM
    #7455
    1999RegCab

    1999RegCab Well-Known Member

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    Yeah you can save money if you set your own gears, steering, etc. Lotsa cheese for the diamonds for sure.

    True words. If you build it "right", anything you build will cost money.

    For me, everything boils down to determining what gets me more axle for the same money. And after running the numbers, 1 tons win no matter how you look at it.

    I assume you are asking about the front D60 - no need to upgrade shafts on the 14bolt. Those things are massive beef in factory form.

    To answer your question about the stock shafts on a front D60; certainly a good idea to upgrade. They do break. You can get away with running stock shafts for a while with smaller tires tho.

    Now, if you are talking about 2005+ super duty D60s, then that's a whole different ball game. They come with 35 spline all around from factory. I would totally run those stock shafts without thinking about it twice.
     
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  16. Aug 12, 2016 at 6:48 PM
    #7456
    SGTCap

    SGTCap Well-Known Member

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    37s, 4x4 6-spd, OME 886s, Allpro Expos, SOS sliders and front/rear bumpers,Rack,Skids, 4.56s, Lockers,Recon Winch, TJM RTT, Lots of tools, boxes and gear. Shaggy mutt behind the seat

    I've got an old 79 HP Ford Dana 60 front. Guess I'll plan to change the shafts when I gear and lock it
     
  17. Aug 13, 2016 at 2:00 PM
    #7457
    Boomtacoma01

    Boomtacoma01 Well-Known Member

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    Yep upgrade those d60 shafts. The 14b stockers are tough. Just find you an extra set for spares since they are pretty cheap. My spares were free from a buddy.
     
  18. Aug 14, 2016 at 6:42 AM
    #7458
    1999RegCab

    1999RegCab Well-Known Member

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    The inner factory shafts are 35 spline I believe. However, they become narrower or "neck down". When u remove the shafts you'll see how they are not the same diameter all the way from side to side.

    The stock outter shafts and hubs are only 30 splines. You definitely want to upgrade those for big tires.

    Can't remember what the stock ujoints are but those need upgrades as well.

    You can probably run 37"s and be ok if you wheel lightly. I've seen some guys wheeling stock D60s until until something breaks and then upgrade from there.

    Personally, i would just go through the entire axle and build it right from the beginning instead of waiting for 37 year old stock parts to beging to break. You are looking at at least $1,000 for chromo shafts (inner and outters) and good joints. Make it $2,000 if you go all the way with RCV axles.

    To build a D60 "right" on the cheap you need at least $3,000 plus the price of the axle. But that's only if you can set your own gears, do the axle tear down/build up, keep stock knuckes and use cheap breaks and are able find cheap hubs and related parts as well as cheap steering parts.

    If you go with beef stuff like Reid knuckes, better brakes, air locker, better steering, etc....It snow balls very quickly if you go with beefy upgrades on a D60. But it's totally worth it, prob the last axle you'll ever build.

    The axle tear down can be a royal PITA if it's really rusty. Lots of grunt work. Removing the kingpin will probably require some heat; and to retorque the new one you need a tool capable of at least 600lbs of torque if i remember correctly. So building the axle yourself yourself will save $$$ but will not be without aggravation if you don't have the right tools and space to build it :D
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2016
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  19. Aug 15, 2016 at 6:07 AM
    #7459
    rctoy

    rctoy It's about to get real!!!

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    konstantenos
    Pocatello Idaho
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    First gen 4door monster in progress
    TRD super charger, URD fuel mods and 2.1 super grip pully, Headers, 2.5" glass pack, Dana 60 front 4 linked, 14bolt rears on chev 63's, 5.38 gears, ARB locker in the front, PSC full hydraulic steering, 18" SAW 2.5" triple rate coils overs, FOA 2.5 air bumps, B&M launch controls, B&M trans cooler, 4 alpine 6X8 type R's amped, Red led rock lights, CBI front and rear bumpers (my design) CBI sliders, 4 riggid dualys front 2 in the rear, custom track bar, ARB snorkle, warn VR8000 winch, Viair 480c twin compressers..
    :anonymous: I'm still running the stock front 60 axles with 42's and locked in the front. It's the last drive train upgrade on the list since i got my 14bolt arb installed over the weekend :yay:. Going to go with the yukon 35 spline chromo kit, it's $1,200 and comes with everything. I already have warn premium 35 spline hubs.
     
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  20. Aug 15, 2016 at 6:36 AM
    #7460
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    A toyota axle with longs is around the same strength as a stock 60 (axle shaft only not counting the ring gear), maybe a little bit stronger and people run those all day on 37s with low gearing with minimal breakage unless they are being a dumbass. You will be fine with stock 60 shafts and joints for a while. If you want to ensure they will last get some spare shafts and u joints, then they will never break!
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2016
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