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Lift it!

 

I destroyed my cavvie. Ripping the e brake and drifting around off road

 

The car was held together with duct tape and zipties

 

That's awesome that you have the Cavalier for a daily driver. I often find myself on Sunday afternoons rushing to put my Tacoma back together so I can drive it to work on Monday.

 

I daily a 2013 ford focus. I've got 60,000 miles on her now driving 2 hours a day m-f . I don't enjoy driving it but it keeps the miles off my truck.

 

sub'd
this is gonna be good.

 

I'd never be able to keep up with two "build ups".

 

Damn Crom.

 

For such a serious innovator in truck touring fashion, I find this thread somewhat amusing....

 

Dude! I love that you have a 'build' thread for your daily! You've inspired me to make one for 2004 Subaru. Once I get my Taco back up and running it'll be time to give the DD some love!

 

I've never noticed that, but did a little research. "Expert" below is from justanswer.com. Makes sense but you may want to do additional research.
See 'expert' SUPRYZE's response. I think the 180 turn is when head makes contact. The Haynes manual should address it somewhere in their book.
http://www.justanswer.com/car/2qats-convert-deg-rotation-ft-lbs-torque.html

"...when a torque spec is given, for example, 90 ft/lbs, that value of "ft/lbs" is the resistance of rotation. Take three bolts: a rusty bolt, a new bolt, and a new bolt with oil on the threads. The rusty bolt will have the greatest resistance to rotation of the three, and therefore, will hit "90 ft/lbs" before the other two. The new bolt with oil on the threads will offer the least resistance, and therefore will require much more turning, to achieve the 90 ft/lbs. All this extra turning causes excessive clamping force, since each turn of the bolt brings the bolt head down lower. So if you torqued all three bolts to 90 ft/lbs, the rusty bolt won't offer enough clamping force, the new bolt will probably be just right and the new bolt with oil will be too tight.

When manufacturers give a rotation spec, they give an initial torque valve (for example 10 ft/lbs) just to make sure the bolt is seated, usually very low. Then they give the rotation (180 degrees for example) because they know, that no matter if the bolt is rusty, clean or oily, that 180 degrees will give the same clamping force, no matter what.

If you don't believe me, thats OK, its a hard concept to grasp. But google "torque to yield bolts" and you will see a ton of information on the theory and benefits of using such, and maybe then you will understand the difference and why it can't be converted."

Spell checked, and emphasis added.

 

I had a 02 cavalier I drove for a year and a half. I hated the thing I pay $1300 cad for it and it had 250,000km. I beat the living piss out of it, it burnt about 1/2qt of oil a week I'm pretty sure it had a bad valve seat. It made all sorts of weird noises and it had a bad wheel bearing. All I did for maintenance was top the oil up I was even to lazy to change the filter. I hated that car but it took a beating like a champ I remember jumping on the hood just destroying it. And booting the fenders in. So the time finally came where the wife was getting a new car and I made mazda take it on trade and the salesman didn't want it. I told them if they didn't take the car they had no deal. Man I hated that's car. I don't like domestic cars

 

Just let it ride.

If it ain't broke don't fix it. And if it's broke run it into the ground.

Stupid cavalier

 

Time to rattle paint the wheels.

 

Shit got real.

 

That seems like more work then what that car is worth.

 

I inherited a 97' Cavalier from my wife when we got married and we bought her a 4Runner. Actually a great car I put over 100k miles on it for a total of 210k when I sold it. The only thing I ever did to that car was brakes, tires, recharge the AC and replace the starter relay that shuts it off after the engine starts. It didn't even burn or leak any oil.