DIY LCA Bushing Removal and Replacement 2005+ Tacoma (4x4) The Easy Way!

There is no problem with fitment. The bushings fit perfect. They must be pressed in with a shop press. I paid $40 to someone for this service.

I am in no rush to install, truck is not my daily driver anymore and when I swap LCA's I'm doing additional work in there, and need more parts.

Last week, I just had new

$24 Moog K80827 Front Lower Suspension Ball Joint for Toyota Tacoma

Moog K80827 BJ's pressed in by an auto shop. $22.50 for both BJ's. Pressed perfectly.



Welder closed all the drain holes and reinforced a few things. and this was after first coat of paint.

 

Welding it shut is primarily to guard against corrosion and to make stronger. I had the welder gusset the arms where they join to the bushing eye and fill in a large gap that the factory put there. Also had him run a bead around the bump pad to add strength there, and close up any air gaps.

None of this is really necessary for most rigs. Mine is built for off-road endurance and I'm just trying to stack the deck in my favor.

No idea about chaming.

I will say this though, make sure you read the installation instructions from Whiteline before you install. The bushing has two position oreientations you must be aware of.

1. Fatter part of bushing faces out.
2. Two little holes in the poly that run the length of the bushing must be parallel to the arms.

 

Right and thanks for the info

 

Welcome

 

Need to do this with the extra set of LCA's I have.

 

Some questions about the kit after I just got it today.

For the smaller sized bushing, theres two sets of sleeves, one set with a larger inner diameter and the other with a smaller. Also there's the same situation with washers.

Could you specify which is suposed to be used in our application?

I also noticed that the sleeves I rreceived, when inserted, sit inside the bushing by a very small amount, is this the case with yours as well? I would have thought it better for them to be flush with the bushing, but perhaps not.

 

That's right.

That's because this kit fits more than one vehicle. You must use the right parts in the right configuration for Tacoma.

As I stated before, if you take notes of your factory arms when disassembling, you can't go wrong when putting it all back together.

Yes. I can illustrate with photos.

Pictured below is a Toyota second gen passenger side arm as viewed from the back side.

Notice the LCA bushing holes are of different size? Take note of that.

Smaller bushing sleeves go in the rear new poly bushings, larger sleeves go in the front poly bushings.

This will all make sense when you see the bolts and cams that come off your truck (also pictured below).



Associated hardware pictured.

• Bolt on left goes in the rear bushing.
• Bolt and cam sleeve, in the right of photo, go in the front bushing.

I would not worry about it.

I just got my expensive ass tube of 14 oz of Prothane 19-1751 Super Grease in the mail yesterday. Getting closer to install.

Make sure you read the install instructions, linked here

 

Ahh okay, that helps alot, thanks! I figured I would've got it when I was doing it, but if I didn't it'd be a real big pain in process. Hopefully none of mine are frozen after a year or so from the frame replacement.

 

I doubt I'll be able to get them out, welded, painted and installed in one day, but I'm up for a challenge haha. Probably take them out the night before, weld/paint then go first thing in the morning to press in bushings.

 

Gonna pop them out in the morning and weld up hopefully. Then press in new early Monday and reinstall and replace outerus tierods. Then alignment.

 

Got them all popped out pretty easy! Not welding them for now, gonna press in early morning. Woo!

 

Hell yeah! Glad to hear it. @MTopp

 

Almost done, getting lcas back in now. Also replaced tierods, inner/outer at same time. Pressing in was a pita, had to take to another shop due to press size being too small at my local one, cost $80...too much imho.

 

Good. Yeah I paid $40 for bushing pressing. What brand tie rods did you use?

 

All back together a few hours ago, but it was a bit of work, more time consuming than difficult really.

I bought all moog, inner and outers. My driverside inner outer were shot and seized. Passenger side wasn't as bad, so I kept it as a spare. With the right tools it's easy. I bought this special clamp type tool for inner tie rods specifically, was under $10

I'm gonna test drive tomorrow and then hopefully get an alignment tomorrow or Wednesday. Lol, he'll like that my tie rods move now. They were very bad last time, driverside seized as I said.

 

Congrats, it's a ton of work!

Watch your boots on the Moog outers. Lots of complaints about the boots splitting in short order.

I got that camp too. Gonna do some tie rod work soon on my car, and figure good to have for Tacoma too.

 

Wow, now that you say that, it did look like the boots were splitting already on the moog outers lmao..great.

Yea the clamp didn't fit any where specific on the taco inner rod since it's quite large, but it went on, I got it real tight and worked awesome. Only problem is can't really use that to get the correct torque spec, but I just made them tight and put those washers on.

 

Rides fine so far, maybe a bit better. Definitely need alignment to add more caster, too much bumpsteer right now and steering wheel is a little crooked(I changed my tie rods,not related to lcas)

 

It doesn't matter that I torqued the cam bolts to spec (100ftlbs) while at full droop, does it? With oem rubber yes, but with the new poly?

 

Exactamundo!