2nd Gen 4x4 35s 3" Lift w/o BODY LIFT

18"

 

most of my rubbing issues came from the front bumper, easy fix for that.
I still need to cut an inch or two off the rear fender wells, I've just been letting it self clear.
I can't do super tight turns that well but I dont rub UCAs or frame on articulation.

 

Damn it that's what I meant....

 

I want 14s but I won't fully utilize them with a stock length leaf pack (Ome dakar). I'd go 63s but I love how much I can load up the dakars with no sag. But I do smell flat deck in my future

 

I ran the Dakars and OME shocks for a long time. The OME shocks actually robbed the Dakars of at least 4" of travel. Undo the top of your shock and jack up the truck by the bumper. You'll see how much more droop you can get out of them.

 

I've actually got Ironman 4x4 shocks but ya same idea. I know full well my shocks are acting as limit straps. Gotta order up some longer shackles, shocks and the bamf kit. And then revisit the front suspension lol it never ends

 

Here are some pics. Like I said there are numerous variables that contribute to the off axis articulation of the shock body into the tire, but what I laid out before works for me. I just got shackles from SOS concepts and potentially expo leafs on the way which will probably screw everything up. Just trying to help keep the dream alive.

Good side



Bad side below that I am too close on.




Hope it helps, below are the tops that I just centered up. Use the hole in the frame for reference. In addition leave about eight hours to cut off the stock mounts. HUGE PITA

 

Well the reason you don't rub your shock body is that your bump stop is only a few inches off of the frame. So, your up travel and articulation is very limited. With more lift you would be destroying those shocks when articulated.

 

Thanks for this, the visual helps.

Looks like about 4 inches of shock shaft showing and about 3 inches of compression until full bump off the frame... Isn't that about right

 

Before I start let me clarify that a I am not saying anything negative about the OP's truck, he has good stuff going on. I am just questioning and clarifying a few things.


I'm not talking about the amount of shock travel, I am referring to the lack of travel between the bump stop and the frame and how it relates to flex / articulation. It doesn't matter if you have 4" of shock shaft showing if your bump stop is only 2 inches off the frame. Regardless, the issue being discussed is tires rubbing shock bodies not suspension travel. The only reason I mentioned his lack of up travel is that with only a couple inches of up travel of course you are not going to rub your shock body because you are not articulating very much. I would bet a fresh $1 that when he gets his flip kit and new leafs his tire is going to dry hump that shock body like a Chihuahua that ate a Viagra.

I see a few things in this photo :

1. If that bump is 2" tall there is only 2 ish " of up travel.

2. Those are only 2.0's.

3. Are those 35's ? Could be an illusion but how could you have uncut flares with all of the fender liners in tact on a truck sitting that low with 35's ?

4. The axle tabs could be moved inward and the shock body would still clear the flip plate. When you mock up shock tab locations for a relo like this you should take you leaf pack apart leaving only the main leaf. Then measure the thickness of the removed leafs and cut a block of wood to the same thickness. Insert the block of wood on the main leaf and retighten the u-bolts. The block of wood keeps the axle located properly. This process allows you to use a jack to easily flex to full bump and full droop and more critically to full articulation. When mocking up full articulation you have to not only stuff the tire but also pull down on the othe tire to really get it at max / . Again, Keep in mind that flip plates like to hit shock bodies when articulated but you really need to tuck that shock body as far in as possible. I can almost guarantee that he will need to move those shock tabs over so that the shock body barely clears the flip plate when he gets his new leaf pack.

 

Phew, well I appreciate the insight into your observation, and the tips on the installation. I don't disagree with you, but with 4 inches of shock showing, and a 2 inch bumpstop that compresses at least half its length, that's 2 inches from the frame, leave 1 inch of shock showing when at full bump? The rest of your described process makes sense, as I want to find a middleground between the hub and the leaf springs, so my tire doesn't rub the shock at stuff, and my u-bolt plate doesn't rub the inside of the shock at extension.

 

Before I start let me clarify that a I am not saying anything negative about the OP's truck, he has good stuff going on. I am just questioning and clarifying a few things.


I'm not talking about the amount of shock travel, I am referring to the lack of travel between the bump stop and the frame and how it relates to flex / articulation. It doesn't matter if you have 4" of shock shaft showing if your bump stop is only 2 inches off the frame. Regardless, the issue being discussed is tires rubbing shock bodies not suspension travel. The only reason I mentioned his lack of up travel is that with only a couple inches of up travel of course you are not going to rub your shock body because you are not articulating very much. I would bet a fresh $1 that when he gets his flip kit and new leafs his tire is going to dry hump that shock body like a Chihuahua that ate a Viagra.

I see a few things in this photo :

1. If that bump is 2" tall there is only 2 ish " of up travel.

Superbumps are quite squishy and they compress down pretty far. I have 4" of uptravel and will have more with extended shackles (not yet installed) and potentially expo leaf pack (standard pack in picture, allpro). I dont want any more than 4" uptravel. I would invert the leaf pack at that point and iwent with the shackle flip for more droop, not upstroke (which I equate to more articulation). Ideally I wanted 30-40% upstroke and 60-70% droop of the shock body stroke length.

2. Those are only 2.0's.
(Yes, 2.0 smooth body 13" stroke valved for tacoma, i dont drive fast offroad and they work great for me)

3. Are those 35's ? Could be an illusion but how could you have uncut flares with all of the fender liners in tact on a truck sitting that low with 35's ?

I dont have any flares on the truck right now. I am going to cut them and reapply once i put on my HC rear bumper. 315/75-16, so not quite 35s. I have axle adjusters in that lush the axle forward 1" to center in the pocket, but i do still rub on the fender wells in the rear and just havent cut any on the rear yet

4. The axle tabs could be moved inward and the shock body would still clear the flip plate. When you mock up shock tab locations for a relo like this you should take you leaf pack apart leaving only the main leaf. Then measure the thickness of the removed leafs and cut a block of wood to the same thickness. Insert the block of wood on the main leaf and retighten the u-bolts. The block of wood keeps the axle located properly. This process allows you to use a jack to easily flex to full bump and full droop and more critically to full articulation. When mocking up full articulation you have to not only stuff the tire but also pull down on the othe tire to really get it at max / . Again, Keep in mind that flip plates like to hit shock bodies when articulated but you really need to tuck that shock body as far in as possible. I can almost guarantee that he will need to move those shock tabs over so that the shock body barely clears the flip plate when he gets his new leaf pack.

How much different can it be going from an allpro standard leaf to an expo leaf? I thought it was the same amount of leafs just a stiffer pack tempering (not sure what the technical term is, but you get it)



I tried to answer most above but probably missed a bit. I did all this on the floor of my garage solo. I would love to use lift and multiple mockups but I am just a hack learning in my garage by myself.

 

I thought this was the 35s on a 3" lift thread

 

34.66666666 repeating of course

 

I have the All-Pro expedition leaf springs on my truck and they flex pretty good my tires don't rub on my shocks but they are Bilsteins. I'll try and get some pictures of the bump stops tomorrow.

 

Thanks for giving all the background! I'm in the same boat as far as wanting to limit uptravel... I may be dreamin, will let you guys know

 

Guarantee @Holloman doesnt get pics of his bump stops in the next 24 hours....


And yes @Evenflow this is the 35s/3" thread, really appreciate all your input here even when it gets a little sideways.

 

I'm not sure that they are understanding that the bump stop is not the end of tire movement...maybe I am not describing it well ? I've got a headache from hell tonight so I'm probably not explaining it correctly. Even when your axle has hit the bump on the stuffed side as the other side droops away the top of your tire tilts as if it is hinged. So the top back edge of the tire continues to pull in toward the shock body.

Again, not saying anything is wrong with the OP's set up just to clarify the potential fit issues for folks that dive into this thread thinking about throwing 35's on and walking away thinking " oh cool I'll just have to trim my mud flaps " Every single truck and set up is different and the proper mock up and design steps solve those probs before they happen. I actually had a post in the old MT thread full write up with pics of how to take apart the leaf pack, measure bump and droop to find the right length shocks and set up hoops etc...it all got nuked when that thread was toasted.

 

i know what you are saying. once you are on the bump your axle articulates at the point of the bump stop and the tire continues to tilt in.

 

Yes sir exactly, I was not explaining what I had in my head in that first post

I'm cheating a bit these days with regard to shocks and leafs ..I ditched the leafs and did a 3 link so now she stuffs a 35 like a fat kid at an all you can eat buffet...