Clay it

This is what I ALWAYS buy. Complete kit (less wax) for $12-15 depending on where you purchase. I buy mine from Checkers... most stores carry it. Brought to you by Meguiars;

http://image.popularhotrodding.com/...7020945+cr1+re0+ar1/meguiars-clay-bar-kit.jpg

 

How does it work on trail stripes?

 

You typically need polsih for that. Clay is really for removing bonded contaminants, not scuffs and scratches.

Here's a post on some 'pinstriping' that we removed with polish:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/detailing/66330-wetsand.html

The 'after' pictures are on page 2. Yes, we used clay, but it didn't change the scratches.

 

Oh, and for Wax I use Meguairs NXT Next Generation 2.0. Stuff is awesome for cars with dark colors and/or light colors.

 

Right on. Any Wax brand suggestions?

 

I really like this wax except for the fact that it stains trim. Otherwise, it really makes the paint pop, especially with metallics.

As far as Meguiar's Waxes go, I prefer their Ultimate Quik Wax. Also doubles as an air freshener (cherry).

 

thanks!

 

BTW...if you are in Socal, we could do the same demo on your vehicle that we did for raskal311 and his off-roading damage. Just PM me if you are interested. He was very happy with the results.

No charge and no obligation to purchase anything.

 

I would certainly like to - plus I'm not afraid of buying something.

 

Do you just rub the clay over the entire vehicle? Does it need to be wet? What do you do after the clay has been applied over the car? Wipe off, buff?

Thanks in advance!

 

its better if you use a spray detailer.... or a waterless detailer

 

Stay away from the black plastic parts and anything that looks like chrome. You always need a lot of lubricant, wetness, between the clay and the surface of the car.

Your next question is a depends on question. If you are doing a full detail then I usually polish the paint without doing any other clean up. If you are going to wax and buff then you really should wash the car with a good quality automotive soap.

 

One other item. You do not want to run the clay over any decals or pin stripes. I keep forgetting that a lot of the Tacoma's have decals. My bad.

 

After trying several brands I really like the clay from Griot's Garage. It's not a stiff bar like some of the cheap stuff, and comes in a nice screwtop plastic container that protects it from junk.

As for how long it takes, I clay once a year at the end of winter after my vehicles have been pelted with salt, slush, snow, ice and road grit for months. To do a good job given the condition of my finish takes half a day. I make it enjoyable by rolling down the windows, cranking up the stereo, and keeping a cooler of microbrews handy.

Can't think of many better ways to spend an afternoon.

Pete

 

So I got the clay kit! The weather has not been cooperating. The kit came with a small cleaner wax. The Maguiers stuff. This will be my first go when I get around to it. On a "new" should I polish before waxing or will the clay be sufficient? The other question is do I (should I) invest in a buffer or can I just do it by hand?

Do you guys treat the black plastic trim with anything specific. I want this thing to last and look sweet!

 

Clay barred mine and waxed it Saturday......smoother than a prom queens thighs!

 

I would only polish if you have a machine or if you are into doing a lot of work. Hand polishing is a long hard process to remove swirl marks and scratches.

I would invest in a Porter Cable random orbital buffer, pads, and polishes. Be prepared to spend about $250 to get started.

I would not polish the black trim unless it is really ratty. Always test a small out of the way surface on the black trim to see what a wax or polish will do. If the black trim is faded and discolored try Back to Black, it works to restore the trim color.

I know that most of the members on this board wheel and that does damage to the paint so it is really a two edged sword. You want the Tacoma to look good but hey next weekend I will be in the woods and it will just get mucked up again. I would still advocate the purchase as the tools and product can be used on your other ride and on a lot of other jobs around the home.

If you are serious spend some time on the Autogeek and Autopia boards, just remember that these guys are as fanatic about detailing as you are for off roading.

 

If you have the time, doing a pre wax cleaner or paint polish can make a huge difference, however, its certainly not a requirement.
Polishing by hand is going to take a long time, especially if you're trying to remove defects such as spider webbing and swirls. If you just want to do a mild cleaner, or to apply wax, I dont know that a porter cable is really necessary.
For the black plastics, treat them with Poorboys Trim Restorer or similar product. Apply the product with a microfiber applicator. This will give it a little more "bite" to help do a little cleaning along w/ treatment.

 

I've been told to use this for the "fallout" on my paint (small orange specs which rub off, almost like rust particles). I live in an area where there multiple steel mills and particles in the air which get stuck on the paint job. I dont believe the dealership, but they say to use a claybar to get rid of them.

 

If you've never used clay on your truck, I pretty much guarantee you would benefit from it. The dealership is right about the clay bar, it will remove everything on the clear coat, including wax. This is good, it gives you a fresh surface to clean and put some wax on thus protecting your paint even more. It does help to learn a few things about how to wash your truck too if you want to avoid swirl marks in the paint as well.