2nd Gen 4x4 35s 3" Lift w/o BODY LIFT

I need that.

 

Ditto.

 

Shit, you could go even crazier with yours because your bed is already cut out and you have a long bed which makes fitting everything MUCH easier.

I didn't want to lose any bedspace since the short bed has such limited space and didn't want to cut holes in the bed because we use the interior often. We spent a couple of days laying under the truck with tape measures and laughed when we realized it would fit w/o penetrating the bed. We used 12's and built towers up under the wheel well and then did the bolt through bed cage to spuuport the towers. Even with just 12's it pulls 20" bumped and strapped. It sits right in the middle of it's travel 9" up and 11" down. The guys with 16's get 24" +

Here is what the towers look like, that's my fabricator bro @jeffz0rz aka JTA Metal Fab hard at work on the opposite tower. Everything including the links was built by Jeff.

 

dam nice! I think I know my next setup for the rear. What about the fuel tank? Managed to clear it without issue? Looks so sick! And it would be nice to have a coil-over in the rear to adjust for all the gear I have instead of the leaf pack which sags a bit all loaded up.

 

It is a 3 link so the stock tank is still there. Someday I would like to convert it to 4 link and stuff a fuel cell under the back end, could fit a 30 gallon easily. The adjustability was one of the biggest factors that led me to this. You gain height adjustability, very precise tuning, zero axle roll and travel but not just dick measuring travel ...way more supple and with heim's on both ends of the links the articulation is resistance free your not twisting a leaf if that makes sense ?

With CO's you can also run dual rates which make a huge diff too. I am running 400/450 right now but am going to step up to 450/500. @nfs257 is running 500/550, I would love to get his truck and mine on a scale to compare rear axle weight from my OE mod'd frame with a full bed and shell etc vs his back halved chassis...I think all of the tubing on his fully built back end with cage etc might actually be heavier ?

 

*but* to be entirely transparent you do lose ground clearance with links so depending on your preferred offroad terrain it could be the wrong move IE: you're not rock crawling with this style of link. If your into crawling you would have to do a link build like Jerry at BAMF... But with that style there is absolutely no way to avoid penetrating your bed and losing that space. We just do a lot of surf travel down to baja, hours on dirt etc so it was a huge upgrade for me.

You can see how far the links hang in front of the rear tires :

 

I would probably be way heavier. Also 44 gallon fuel cell lol

 

True, I don't do much serious crawling. so may work out for me. @jeffz0rz May need to visit you next year. lol

 

Fuck that's the only kind I want

 

Yeah that What I was thinking Chris, even with the fuel cell empty there is so much tubing in that complete back half ...but my shell is an F-n tank. I think I'm goi to try the middle road with 450/500's.

 

So I tried to get a picture with my bump stop touching but I couldn't get it far enough up the bank the dirt was too soft. Here's some pictures anyway but I think I'm going to need a forklift to get the tire all the way up. my bump stop is about a half inch away from touching.

 

I'm ordering 35's on Monday. Started cutting today to fit them. Just want to be sure. The front and rear cab mounts will hold everything in place just driving on the street until I can reinforce the CMC right?




Few more pics like you've all seen before

 

Did you cut the pinch weld instead of folding it over ?

 

Nope. I hammered it over. I did make a couple of relief cuts first though.

The white stuff looks like grind marks in the pic maybe? That's the Seam sealer from the factory. I need to find something that's paintable to go over it with.

 

You'll be fine. I've been driving and wheeling with mine open

 

Cool. I was just worried because I know I cut a LOT...

 

Nice.