Improving AC?

Forum: It seems that many of us are less than happy w/Taco AC. Doesn't look like we can do much about it.
I am wondering if I put on a Trans and Oil coolers on my 07, will it make the AC more efficient?
I'm thinking less heat for cooling system would be a good thing.
Any thoughts?

R

 

Those will not make it any cooler. They will only cool the oil and transmission fluid. No impact on the HVAC system efficiency.

A possible larger condenser and evaporator along with a larger dryer with a faster compressor ratio speed would be the only way.

 

Best you can do is add insulated foam that they use on home AC lines. And even then I'd doubt it would drop more than 1-2 degrees but it's something I've added to my Honda Civic due to shitty AC performance and it seemed to help just a bit. But every bit counts when it's 118 outside.


EDIT: Not the stuff I use, just using this as a refernce.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/K-Flex-6...ar0YGbzvkveUOpEXNSAnPvu8UXU5nx3rc4BoCi1Hw_wcB

 

Nope, but it will make your engine run happier. Find someone reputable that has a set of A/C gauges and a vacuum pump. Have your system evacuated and refilled with refridgerant "freon" and it should blow colder.

 

That is what I thought, but I can hope.

FWIW I bought a windshield heat barrier from the dealer.
It was not cheap.
The counter guys told me it was custom made.
One size does not fit all.
Mine fits perfect, like Weather Tec mats.
Brings temps down 10* on a 100* day.

I was hoping for more.

R

 

You mean like this.. That only helps keep sun out of the windshield when it's parked. Run away from the stealership.. They're a few $ at Walmart.


Easy enough to open windows and drive a second to get the temp equal to outside. Though they may help keep sun off seats if you have leather.

 

Mine fits perfect or I would have returned it.
It stays on the windshield, fits the contours well.
I am very happy w/fit and function.
I was hoping for more cold from my AC.
That was worded poorly, sorry.

R

 

Windshield visors can be amazing. I always use my visor and crack my windows open an inch or two in the warmer months. There is an honest 30°+ drop in in cabin temperatures compared to no visor with closed windows. I strongly suggest a reflective, insulated, fold up one opposed to some black thin cheap thing. I got mine at Walmart for $20 and it has served me wonderfully these past 3 years. Buy a size small if available.

It sounds like they were blowing smoke. Also leave your windows cracked at least an inch on hot days if you want a noticeable improvement.

X2. I couldn't have said it better myself.

This is a good example pic too showing the good reflective, insulated, fold up type compared to a crappy see through one.

 

No. I assume you mean to say refrigerant R134a. Not Freon.

 

Tint

 

correct refridgerant for the system...

 

I'm lucky to have a secure parking lot at work so I leave my rear window open a bit. With the power window mod, I can leave it open enough to let the heat out but yet not all the way open. The motor keeps anyone from opening the window anymore than where I left it.

 

Adding coolers will HURT A/C performance. If you look carefully, they all mount in front of the condenser coil, which means the air temp over the condenser coil will be higher due to the heat removed from the transmission and oil.

Don't waste your time on the foam. It won't do a thing. That "cold" line has already done its job, that's why it is cold. The high pressure line is hot, coming from the compressor to the condenser and then back to the Evap core. That fairly hot liquid flashes to gas and since it boils at 40 degrees or so depending on low pressure level, it instantly cools the evap core to that temp. The larger (colder) line running back to the compressor is pretty much irrelevant. If you try to insulate it, all you can do is prevent it from absorbing a small amount of heat on the way back to the compressor. The compressor raises the pressure (and temp) to exciting levels. The foam will probably not change anything on the high pressure side by even one degree.

The foam on a house A/C system is to prevent condensation and water damage as it drips from the cold suction line on the way back to the compressor.

One test you can do, after the usual check pressures to determine charge level, is to feel the suction line right at the firewall where it comes right out of the evap core. It ought to be quite cold. If not, and the charge looks right, the Tx valve might be marginal and not flowing enough freon to produce max cooling.

But avoid all the voodoo, witchcraft and superstition and let someone look at it with gauges... Cheaper and more effective in the long run. If you want to learn how to do that, even better. But solving an A/C problem without gauges is like trying to fix a broken bone with no x-rays. It's going to be painful and not work very well.

As a note the lowest refrigerant velocity an A/C system can tolerate is in the 1200 fpm or 20 feet per second range, to be sure it moves the oil around rather than letting it pool away from the compressor and cause total failure. How much heat do you think the suction line freon will pick up when it is only exposed to under-hood heat for less than 1/5 of a second?

 

I just started a thread based on this same issue. When I am wheeling or in stop and go traffic here in Phoenix my AC will loose its effectiveness. I know its due to airflow across the condenser coil / radiator. I'm looking into putting a couple nice sized electric fans in front to keep air flowing even if I'm not moving. Anyone have experience with this? Chuck
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/hood-support-electric-fans.446511/

 

Best solution keep changing out the cab air filters and add some additional insulation to the cab. The Tacoma's have nearly none.

 

Get a front windshield tint at least 50% i have that and works just fine for the heat inside the cabin and live in central Florida wish is really hot out hear

 

It is really marginally effective at best. Better than nothing when sitting still, but it takes one STOUT fan motor to blow 30mph + air through the condenser and radiator, lots of resistance there...

I once knew someone that re-routed their windshield washer to behind the grill and a switch would blow a spray of clear water on the condenser which REALLY ramps up efficiency at idle and slow speeds.

 

Tinting the windshield where I live gets you an instant ticket. You can tint the top 6" to help with the sun but that's it.

 

Sounds like dirt build-up between the condenser and the radiator or a failing fan clutch. Other possibility is refrigerant level is low. I'd check the refrigerant level first.

 

You would be surprised how much crap can be blown out of a condenser, especially if truck came from farm country. Here in Idaho I wont follow hay trucks, or any truck for that matter.