What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Did you see the cat that is selling a pair of spindles? That would be the way to go if you really do need WBs.

 

It's fairly simple, I ran into a problem I didn't see on any of the how to threads. Don't tighten the belt tensioner before reinstalling the timing belt, even with it compressed I couldn't get the belt on.

 

Whats everyone keep in there truck to jack up the truck in case of a flat to change the tire? Stock jack? Does that even go high enough for a lifted truck on 33's?

 

Stock will need help of a block or two if changing a front tire.

 

Fixed the spot on my hood. Didn't exactly come out great, wasn't sure exactly how to approach it, but it will work. Wish I would have tried a little different technique.

 

Hi Lift

 

Anyone have advice on how to get the fill plug off the rear diff? It's not in the best shape (drain plug looks excellent somehow) and it keeps going to strip. I already did the trans and t-case today with very minimal difficulties. The front diff was a 5 hour long worst-time-I've-ever-had-working-on-anything nightmare of a job but it's done. All I have left is this rear diff and of course, I have to deal with shitty stripped bolts. I'm losing resolve. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Edit: this is the awful state of it

 

Here's a pic of mine. Don't know exactly how far over the rails they went but it's more than a 1/2"... and I really like it

 

Mine is almost exactly that far over the bed rails and I love it. Line-X did a great job.

 

weld something to it and replace it with a new one

 

Buy a new fill plug. When you have it on hand, go to town on the old one. File down the flats and use a set of vise grips.

 

I think those are both good ideas, especially getting a new one FIRST.

Just out of curiosity, do you recall how my gear oil your front and rear took? I just swapped out both on mine, and they both took way less than expected. Thanks!

 

If I had equipment/knew how to weld, I would definitely. Unfortunately, I have neither of those.
But I will definitely be getting a new plug.

Yeah there's no way I'd bother to get this one out without a new one. As for removing the old one, vice grips was my first thought. But filing down hadn't come to mind. That might be a big help. Thanks for that one.

Well I can't speak for the rear yet, as I haven't done it. For the front, I have only a rough idea since my drain plug was stripped before I even got to it, so I ended up pumping out the old through the fill plug. So assuming I didn't get a thorough a drain as I would by removing the drain plug, I only put 1qt in (calls for 1.2qts) and it did drip out a bit after I removed the fill hose. So I'd guess it was a little less than what was called for. I'd just fill the recommended amount and then when you remove the fill hose, if any starts coming out, let it. Wait until it slows to a crawl or stops and then you should be good.

 

Thanks, Mike. I was right at one quart when it started to drip, and that was with a brand new 'dry' diff. I might just drive it slowly around the block a couple times and try to top them off again.

 

Yeah that's a good idea. The concept is the same as a new, dry engine. It's going to take more than an engine you're just changing the oil on. But I'm sure you already knew that.
You're definitely better off overfilling and letting it overflow out than being underfilled. I'd recommend parking on a slight grade so your fill plugs are facing slightly downhill. This would, in my novice mind, make it so the fluid could overflow out easier but would not be enough of an incline to let it pour out any that isn't overfill.

Oh I have a question. Maybe you can help me. Okay so a big part of the issues I had doing the front diff was my inability to remove the front half of the factory skid plate. One of the two 12mm bolts at the back end of it came off with no issue at all. The other was in terrible shape and started to strip from the get-go (very similar to my rear diff fill plug) so I was unable to get it off and this created a load of issues. It's done now, but I still want to be able to get that bolt out for anything else in the future. It's a small, recessed, vertical bolt. I tried a few ways to get it off, but it's so small and there is no good way to get at it. You have any thoughts on how I could get this off? My thinking is to drill it out and probably re-tap the hole. It's a PITA but it seems to be the best way. My other thought would be to cut off (no that I have the tools/know how to do that), but that would probably result in having to drill out and re-tap anyway. If you have any clever ideas on how to get that bolt out that doesn't involve doing that, that'd be awesome.

 

You need to consider that rear lift springs/pinion angle shims can rotate the housing. Typically this moves the pinion end up and the fill plug down. This defeats the "fill to the bottom of the threads" thing. It is also why different model trucks with the same rear have slightly different listed gear oil capacities to get to the "bottom of threads".

 

Based on all these feedbacks , definitely worth the $450 quoted, now dont know if they wll charge me more when I tell them that change mind and want it over the railthey cliosed saturdays but sep1st on off to do ot

 

I think its about an extra 50 to go over the rails, but I cant remember exactly

 

Damn, those are beautiful.

The mountains are gorgeous too!

 

@m3bassman

where at?

ID or MT?

i have a week off early sept trying to find a place to get out to.