A/C blows cold on drivers side/hot on passenger

I have spent a good deal of time searching for info on this problem with no luck so I will post the question.

I have a 2007 Pre-Runner, v-6, 4 door crew cab. With the exception of the audio system, it is stock.

The Air conditioner system is a standard system, it does not have any kind of zone temp control. A few weeks ago, it seemed that the compressor began to cycle more often. Today, (it is pretty hot in Memphis this week, mid to upper 90's), I got in and started. The system was blowing cool on the far left vent and was progressively warmer on the vents as you went to the passenger side.

Soon the far left vent got fairly cold, the second from the left was getting cooler but the two on the passenger side remained warm. It took a while but the air from all the vents got cool.

A former Toyota tech told me it could be low refrigerant or a temp sensor. Any thoughts

 

That's a strange one. ALL the air comes through the heater box where the evap core is. At that point all the air should be equally cooled. I suppose it is remotely possible that with a low refrigerant charge, the evap core cools off unevenly, but boy does that seem like a stretch. Any chance the right side of your dash was in direct sunlight, while the left side was not? That might warm up the right side ductwork enough that it takes a few mins to cool off and start blowing cooler air?

 

Thanks for the reply. I do understand your thinking and it would seem as you say. However the truck was sitting in the sun for a while and got pretty heat soaked all the way across the dash. The left vent got pretty cool pretty fast. It took some time for the vents on the right side to start getting cool. Early this morning, while things were cool from overnight, it blew cold air from all vents right off. I went to an automotive service facility and they wanted to replace the expansion valve for over $900.00, ( they would have to completely disassemble the dash). I said no and pointed out that a Toyota tech had suggested low refrigerant. They evacuated they system, found that it was in fact low on refrigerant, it held the vacuum for over an hour and they reserviced it. It has worked fine all day today. I guess time will tell if that is the fix.

I too would think that with one evaporator in one box, the air coming out of the box would be the same temp to all vents unless it is as you suggest, that the evap core is cooling unevenly.

 

Had the same problem 2 weeks ago in our 2011 Jeep GC. It was just low on refrigerant... Topped it off and all is well again.

 

Maybe not related but just a heads up. I have an '07 also and am seeing the duct sealing foam once in awhile that blows out of the vents. I think it's starting to cause the airflow to leak.

 

Sorry to take so long to update this. I had the system evacuated and reserviced. Before they reserviced the system, they let it set with a vacuum and it held it for over an hour. After reservicing, it has worked as it should since.

 

Just thought i'd add in on this.

I been having the same exact issue with my 2005 access cab off road manual. Driver side air vents were cool and the passenger side air vents were hot. Did some reading up like others and decided to try recharging with some freon before i go to deep in taking stuff apart. After that, truck blew cool air on all vents. bout 2 weeks later began blowing hot air on passenger side. Led me to believe i got a leak somewhere. Took it to a near by auto repair shop close to my work. The guy injected dye into my system and said right off the bat, the condenser leaked dye out (had a hole in it). Currently wants me to drive it around for a day so the dye can circulate good before replacing the condenser just in case there may be another leak.

Debating whether or not to replace the condenser myself or just fork out the money and pay them for labor. Wants about $197 for oem replacement condenser and about $250 in labor, none of this includes the price of adding freon.

Do i really need a oem replacement condenser or would a aftermarket brand work just fine reliability wise? I want to price out the oem brand condenser from what the shop is charging me, when i do i get around $800? is that right?

 

I'd go for the best price. I had a 95 Dakota where the evap went out and all that was available was OEM Mopar. But if there are choices, it is pretty likely ONE of those choices makes the so-called "OEM" part as well. You should visit a factory here and there to have your eyes opened. There is a "blanket factory" in Mississippi I worked at while going to school. We made and packaged electric blankets for Sears, Sunbeam, JC Penney and I can't remember who else. All using the SAME blankets, most using the same controls but with different labels on 'em. There's a tool (electric) plant in Jackson TN that does the same. Rockwell. Black and Decker. Craftsman.

The nice thing about evaps and condensers is that they are simple parts since nothing is moving. I doubt you can go wrong. And since you can't tell who made what anyway...

 

Took the truck back in today for a recheck to see if they could find any more leaks. Shop told me its only the condenser leaking and nothing else found. Decided to replace it myself and take it in once im done for them to charge it up. Shop said they charge about 40 for freon and 40 for labor. I went ahead and bought a Denso brand condenser for about $80 ordered online. Now just waiting for it to arrive so i can start working on. overall should be a total cost around 180 more or less hopefully. Beats paying over 500 to have them work on it.

 

I have a 2014 Tacoma with only 39000 miles on it. The AC is doing the exact same thing... cold on the driver's side left vent and progressively warmer on all the vents on the right. The air is hot by the time you get to the far left vent. It started doing it about 2 weeks ago. With this happening at 39k miles sucks as I believe the warranty is only up to 36000 miles.

 

My 09 is doing the same thing did you figure yours out?

 

I ended up taking my to the dealer. They found a faulty pressure line and so I was really low on Freon. I asked if it was a bad crimp or a dry rot issue (something that should net be the case with a two year old truck) but they were very sheepish as to what the problem was and they replaced it for free even though it was out of warranty. My guess is that there is a bad batch of pressure lines that came out of the factory and they did not want to have me make an issue of things.

So, my culprit was low Freon caused by a faulty hose.

 

Thanks man! I'm taking mine in tomorrow hopefully it's something simple like that

 

Dual climate control

 

Took my truck into a local repair shop yesterday they found the same thing, faulty pressure line inbetween the condenser and compressor. Cost me $220 for parts and AC service as its way past warranty but it's back to blowing like new again.

 

What was the fix

 

Same thing happened to my 2011 DCSB TRD OR. I added some refrigerant and it worked properly for about two weeks. Dealer found a leak in the line between the compressor and condenser. They replaced it with a line that has a rubber hose in the middle compared to the original metal pipe. I paid $180 with the extended warranty.

 

How long ago was the repair done and has it worked since then

 

You had a complete metal pipe from compressor to condenser? That could not possibly work since the engine rocks from side to side under acceleration due to the flexibility in the motor mounts. Never seen one of those. Every refrigerant line I have seen has been metal on each end, rubber in the middle.