5100/885/AAL experience

LOOKING GOOD MIKE!!

 

Looking great guys! Glad the installs went well! Enjoy that ride!

 

thanks! Probably wouldn't have happened without this thread. I am waiting til I install the ucas later this week to do alignment and drive it. Right now my stock ucas are about 1/4" from the tire. Too close for comfort.

 

Alright, I'm sorry if I am beating a dead horse, but want to get your input on my anticipated setup:

I have a 2012 DCSB TRD Sport with 265x60x18 tires on the Limited Toyota wheels (chrome clad). I have been wanting the black TRD Trail Team 16" wheels (pictured below) with a small lift and larger tires. After reading this thread, I believe the 5100 kit w/ 885's and the deaver single is right for me. When ordering, do I need to add in the strut assembly? I am also still deciding if the LR UCAs will be a good idea to add while I'm messing with things.

Other than that, I am a little torn on what tire and size to go with. I live in the Washington, DC area and have to park in garages from time to time, so I think a 2.5" lift kit will be my max. That being said, I also would like to avoid having to do much trimming, so i think the 285 is out the window. I'm interested to see more on the St. Maxx or hear your review, but I'm really just looking for an A/T that won't look dwarfed by the added 2.5". Like I said, I plan on getting the 16" Trail Teams.

Thanks for the help

 

Any vibration? I did the full OME suspension kit and i have some vibration so i ordered the driveline carrier bearing drop kit to see if that helps.

 

Better late than never.

 

I was in the same boat as you. I added in the strut assembly it saved me a few hours of work and lots of pain. At the last minute I ordered the LR ucas. For tires im running 265/70/17 with c rated k02. Love the setup. But if you want 16" Rims the equivalent tire size would be 265/75/16. It will look similar to mine and many others in this thread.

 

So glad to hear that this thread helped you with everything as that was my goal to help other people when I was in the same boat! I don't know much when it comes to working on trucks but I do my research and I know enough about the things I've personally had experience with. I'm sure the UCA'a will make you feel better, my wheels have more backspace on them so it pushes them out more which is why I think I have more space between my tires and UCA's, plenty for me.

No worries man, that's what this thread is here for. I love those trail team wheels but I wanted something with a little more backspace and I think those have the same as stock wheels. I would def just pay for strut assembly as it makes for easy plug n play when it comes to installation. I wouldn't trust myself with a spring compressor or other shops to do it because there have been a lot of horror stories about other shops assembling the coilovers incorrectly.
LR UCA's just depends on how comfortable you are with your alignment being slightly off because you can't get it perfect but you can get it good enough to where it won't cause any abnormal wear on tires. Also, if you get the trail teams, because of the stock backspace and offset of them the UCA's may be close to the tire like @lashingbar was saying. Plenty of people run stock UCA's with relatively no issues though.
As for tires, you may have to trim very little with 285's depending on how much you might flex your suspension. I'm getting 285's eventually and don't plan on having to trim much, if any, because I'm almost strictly city driving. 265/75's look great with this setup though, they look no where near too small to me.
The ST maxx's have a ton of great reviews, a lot of people like them and praise the aggressive look and great road manners that they have. I personally love my toyo at2's, going to buy them again when mine wear out. The c-load has more aggressive tread and sidewall than the p-rated version and are still relatively light. They drive smooth and are very quiet to me, love them.
One more thing, I don't know if you're 4wd or not but if you are not, you may get closer to 3 inches from the setup like I did, as Marie from @HeadStrong Off-Road told me too due to the truck being lighter. Whatever you do, make sure you order from them. Best prices you will find and free shipping. Good luck buddy and come back to post!

I have no vibrations whatsoever. I have heard a few times lately that the ome shocks with the ome coils are causing vibrations though. It's weird because you would think pairing the same brand suspension components would give you the least issues. I've seen more people pairing the 5100's with ome coils and having great results. Hope you can figure out the vibes.

 

I've got this same exact lift and my bilstein are set at 0. My front end is 1.75" lower than the rear and id like to level that to about exactly even. What setting should I move them to?

 

with 885s, shoudlnt move the setting. Can change to 887 for maybe another inch-1.5 or run a 1.5 inch level kit on top of the strut. Have to think about UCAs though.. 4x4?

Wondering why your rear is higher if you have the same lift. Have a steel bumper or winch?

 

No steel bumper or winch. I have light racing UCAs already. Maybe I'll switch to 887

 

Subscribed! Looking good everyone.
@Lashinbar do you have photos from the side closer to the front?

 

What do you have your fronts set at? Looks good though.

 

Anyone have General AT2s on their truck or had them in the past? I've read good reviews, but was wondering what they wear like. I'd be looking at 265/75/16

 

It is not recommended to preload the coils, it will make for a rougher ride. Another option other than 887's would be the @HeadStrong Off-Road 1/2" top plate spacers which sit on top of the struts and don't preload the coils. This will allow you to gain an extra inch of lift. This is probably going to be the better option for you to level out your truck. I'm considering getting these down the road once I get bigger tires and LR UCA's.

http://www.headstrongoffroad.com/store/p30/HS_1/2"_Top_Plate_Spacers_-_TT05512-TPS.html

 

I've always heard bad things about spacers. I dont do any serious off roading though so would it matter? If I want a full inch, I would put two half inch spacers on each side in additon to the taco lean spacer I have on there now? or put a 1" spacer on each side?

 

You don't get an equal amount of lift compared to the thickness of the spacer. But, as lift goes up, there is a diminishing return on lift per inch of spacer....Example; On a 2" lift, an additional 1/2" will raise you about 3/4". On a 2-1/2" lift, the 1/2" will lift about 9/16".

Then there's the length of the studs on the top of the struts; They will only accept about 3/4" worth of spacers at the absolute max. You can get LONGER studs though, which will accept roughly 1-1/4".

Personally, I would not suggest more than 3/4" worth of spacers at the absolute maximum.......1/2" is my limit.

2" or 2-1/2" "spacer lifts" generally will bolt to the strut via the studs on the top hat, and have a second set of studs attached directly to the spacer.....

 

okay so, since i already have the 1/4" spacer on the drivers side for lean do I just add the 1/2 spacer on top of it or do I get a 3/4" spacer on that side and a 1/2" on the passenger side? will my studs be long enough with my current setup or will i need new ones?

 

I did essentially the same thing you're doing.....A 1/2" and a 1/4" spacer on drivers side......A 1/2" spacer on passenger side. Before the 1/2" spacers, I had just the single 1/4" spacer on the drivers side. That gave me a level 2-1/2" above stock height. After the 1/2" plates were added, I now have a level (side to side) 3-1/16th" above the original stock ride height.

I considered a 1/2" (only) on drivers side and the 1/4" (only) on passenger side. Took a gamble. It paid off. I was able to get the 3" I was after AND still get good alignment numbers with stock UCA's. Like it has been said, this is unicorn stuff.....Very VERY rare to get decent caster with 3" lift and stock UCA's. I got 2.9 degree pos. caster on drivers side and 2.8 degrees pos. on passenger side. Desired goal was 3 degrees. There was still some adjustment left, but I decided to leave some in the bank in case something settles or changes.

With 3", I'm at the point where CV joint angles give me cold chills when I look at them. They work OK, and haven't cause any problems after 30K miles, but the angles appear to be about as much as I care to risk. (Don't like diff drops)

 

These 1/2" top plate spacers are not the same thing as a 2.5-3 inch "spacer lift" that everyone, including myself, would never recommend using on our trucks. But no, you only use one 1/2" spacer on each side. A 1/2" will yield 1" because of the suspension geometry, don't ask me how. They should give you the extra inch you're looking for without compromising ride quality like a larger spacer lift would. If you looked at that link I posted it explains exactly how the top plate spacers work and they also come with the longer studs that you will need. and I'm pretty sure you can stack it on top of the 1/4" lean spacer. Thats what I was planning on doing down the road, especially now that @Bluegrass Taco verified it for me. Thanks Bluegrass! Did you notice any real differences in the ride just from adding the top plates?