2016 BBP audio build

That's pretty cool. I assume the metra harnesses I will be installing with the new sound system would not affect those connections?

 

Would be cool if you could still use the touch screen, but you have to use your phone to control it and it basically just makes the receiver act like a monitor for your iphone. For that price, I'll pass. For the same money, you could just buy an ipad for your dashboard and do the same thing.

 

Yeah I don't think it would at all.

 

Good point. I thought it was pretty cool still.

 

I'm using 16g monster cable. It's fine for the amount of power I running to my subs.

 

Double layered back wall with Raamaudio. This was the first layer then I did a second one after plus ensolite. The thing is with the sound deadening it will squish if you put enough pressure to it. I had no issues with my sub box however I built my own vs buying one from Mr. Marv. Either way you should be ok. It's pretty thin if you do a single layer.

I also covered all the vents.

12g copper cable ran for all speakers. 8g copper wire ran to my sub.

 

Yeah I figured I would listen to Marv since he has been dealing with tacomas and making enclosuresures for so long

 

Thanks for the input! What model is your Tacoma? I don't see the two horizontal vents that I have. I've heard that you can not cover these vents completely, otherwise your windows will fog up and cabin pressure will build up in the cab. Jason at RAAM audio said if it was still noisy I could cover with Ensolite but still cut slits to allow airflow thru vents.

I covered with 1 layer of RAAM audio BXT for now. Waiting for my box from Mr. Marv before I add any additional layers to test fit. Fortunately, he said with my particular set up he could shave a little off the back of the sub enclosure

 

I have a 2011 and you can cover the vents. The doors are bit harder to close because it creates pressure. I've never had fog issues but I live in Az so that might be why. I want to build pressure in the cab, otherwise my sound waves are just leaking out.

Ensolite helps out a bit with higher frequencies.

 

Uuuggghhhh. So I've been working on sound deadening rear doors. Decided to put one panel back on to have functional door release. Tested. Everything worked great. Locked the car. Came back out and now door won't open from inside or out.!!! I figured maybe one of the cables came off. I am able to power up window to put it down and was able to peak behind panel from the top and the cables are good - I can see the handle and lock cable moving. What's going on????!! I don't think I can remove panel without the door open. I tried locking/unlocking electronically also.

Suggestions?

 

That sucks. Same thing happened to another guy on here and reportedly the dealer fixed it in minutes. Check this thread and reach out to him for detail.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2016-slow-as-molasses-build.439854/

 

Probably didn't put the cables in correctly. Slim Jim it

 

thank you @hookembevo !! I sent a message to him. Craziest thing. I can manually move the lock cable but the problem seems to be at the latch. Hope the fix is as easy as his.

 

Once again I am hijacking your thread Jeremy but I think someone here asked me about the foam around the speakers so I thought I would post a pic to show what I was referring to!

 

I think I'm gonna do this to mine soon. Thanks for the pic marv!! I hope all is well with you and your family

 

Thanks @Mr Marv . Is that something you purchased or fabricated?

Here is a quote re installing Ensolite foam from RAAM Audio...
"Add one layer of PS Ensolite over the mat, again 8x8" to break up the sound wave off the back of the speaker and help decouple the energy from the door.

NOTE: DO NOT use more than this, if you add to much it will cause a great reduction in the midbass response and just not sound all that great. We only want to break up the back wave off the speaker and this works just as well as those expensive pads sold for this purpose"

Is what he talking about doing the same thing as your idea?

 

@1sttruckguy78 . Marv said my set up should be coming soon. I was taking a closer look at some of your install pics. Couple questions.
1. Did you run your wires INSIDE that horizontal bar on the rear wall? One pic shows them placed on top of that bar but the final pics look like you may have put them inside.
2. I see that you had to use your Dremel to remove some metal on the rear wall behind your 2 subs. Will that be necessary on mine as well?
3. How did you secure your sub-box?

 

Yes I was able to run the wires other than the rcas in the channel on the back wall. When it was all said and done the only 2 wires I had in it was the power wire and remote wire for the subs amp.

I do not know if you will have to cut those brackets off, I did but you may have to ask Marv if you will have to with the design on your boxes he is building for you. If they are just like mine you will have to.

I will take a pic of how I secured the boxes and post it later on today. Basically I took a 90 degree bracket, anchored it to the channel on the back wall and anchored the boxes to the bracket.

 

So I could not get into dealer until mid-September to address door not opening. Just for the heck of it I tried opening tonight.... low and behold it opened right up! I made sure to get the panel off right away just in case it happened again. Still can't understand why it did that. I looked over everything and don't see any areas where it could have been a problem. Crossing my fingers next time I put panel back on.

Update on my build...
-Sound deadened all doors and most of rear wall.
-Ran 16 g speaker wires to all doors and tweeter location. HINT FOR THOSE DOING THIS FOR FIRST TIME - I FOUND IT MUCH EASIER TO FISH WIRE THRU TO DOORS BY LOOSENING THE WATERPROOF RUBBER TUBING/CONDUIT BETWEEN THE DOOR AND THE BODY!! INITIALLY I TRIED TO POKE A HOLE BUT THAT RISKS CUTTING WIRES THAT CONTROL WINDOWS, ETC. I ALSO FIND RUBBING A LITTLE BIT OF FOAM HAND SOAP ON WIRES AND IT WILL SLIDE THRU LIKE BUTTER
- I was mistaken on the rear speaker crossovers. Fortunately, the larger crossovers were for the front so I was able to place those inside the kick panel.
- 4g amp wire placed thru firewall
- Sub box/amp rack should be arriving soon!!!

 

Glad your door opened!! That's awesome.

Great work on the sound deadening on that door too man. Looks great. I need to go back in and add more to mine just because. It sounds great but I figure why the hell not.

You reminded me I needed to get you a pic of the bracket I have holding my boxes in....
Here you go!! I wanted to get them perfectly centered but couldn't because of the way they lined up with the holes in the rib.