2016 BBP audio build

Does anyone know where to get this? Looks like factory speakers were trying to do something similar? Purpose??

 

Thanks Jeremy! Did you just attach to rear wall using one of the pre-drilled holes? 10mm?

 

thats what Marv was showing in his pic that you quoted.

 

no I drilled a new hole and just put a screw in it

 

For the foam I'm trying out a window air conditioner seal foam and cutting to the size I need. Using a double sided mounting tape to hold it in place. Here is one of my rears before it goes into the truck:

 

I get that. Just curious of purpose and to see if there is a vendor or is foam weatherstripping just as good

 

There is but is was expensive. I don't think it's worth it for them.

 

Check out this dudes thread, he bought the foam baffles. They are called FAST rings.

http://www.mobilesolutions-usa.com/store/p878/F.A.S.T._Rings__3-Piece_Foam_6.5"_Speaker_Enhancer_Kit.html

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2016-black-sabbath-tacoma-audio-build.442046/

 

Good stuff! Thanks Jeremy. Jason at RAAM Audio instructs us to place a 8"x8" piece of Ensolite (foam) behind the speaker opening to
"break up the sound wave off the back of the speaker and help decouple the energy from the door.
If you add too much it will cause a great reduction in the midbass response and just not sound all that great. We only want to break up the back wave off the speaker and this works just as well as those expensive pads sold for this purpose."

It seems that the thicker 3rd piece of foam from FAST Rings is doing the same thing. Seems like it would be simple enough to add that foam on top of the speaker/adaptor.

My build update...
- connected the metra harness/speedwire tonight! I initially had a moment thinking that the harnesses would not fit!! I unclipped the top 2 connectors and noticed they were not the same. Fortunately I continued and saw that they are on the bottom right - you guys already know this but here's a pic of top 2 unclipped with the new Metra harnesses on bottom right. May help those who are debating to tackle this themselves or not. I have very basic skills and Jeremy and the gang have been incredible source of info!!
- just waiting for sub and adapters

Just a note on soldering Metra harnesses. Again, I soldered but did not get big enough heat shrink wrap so I just wrapped with electrical tape. I noticed the tape was starting to unravel slightly. I was going to redo and use butt connectors and crimp but decided to just use zip ties. I think this will hold up fine.

 

Those harnesses look freaking perfect man. You did a hell of a job for a guy with "basic skills" Dave. Your install is moving along, I'm diggin how you are not rushing anything and just getting it right the first time.

 

It's so worth it when it's done...

 

110% agree.

 

Where did you mount the crossovers for the front door speakers? Was it difficult to find room to fish the wire through the door? Lastly, was it difficult to find a location to securely route the power cable through the firewall?

 

Hopefully I can help you as much as the other guys have helped me.
1. Crossover was pretty easy to find space behind the kick panels in the front. I can't remember exactly, but one side seemed to have a little more room than the other - due to the wiring set up. My front crossovers were a good 4x6x1.5" thick so pretty good size to put in there. Jeremy has done a nice job with pics, and I would agree it is MUCH easier to fish the wires thru if you disconnect the rubber tubing that connects the other wiring between the door and body. Very easy to put back on. I also taped a long zip tie to my speaker wires. A simple trick of mine is to use foam hand soap and hold the wire and pulls right thru with no resistance.
2. Firewall/Amp power wire - I wanted to run my 4g wire on the driver side to the rear. I am reusing a system I had in another car and was concerned about the length of wire I had. I am planning to have a amp rack behind left rear seat. Getting the wire thru the firewall rubber was a little more challenging. There's a nipple that is visible from the hood that I cut but could not easily pass a coat hanger. I ended up going just below cable in the picture.
It was easier to create hole from inside the cabin. I located the cable and made a small "x" slit. I marked with a silver sharpie ( can't see the hole after you remove blade). Then I took a Philips head screwdriver and pushed thru to test. I found it easier to use something stiffer to get thru this piece of rubber like a coat hanger. Used my foam soap and slid right thru!

I still need to hook up to my fuse. Can't decide a good spot to secure it. Suggestions? Don't know if I should just use double sided tape on top of that black box??

 

@nashsnazzy I forgot to add these pics. I mistakenly put smaller crossover to front doors ( pic shows smaller crossover) but I had no problem putting larger ones in later.

 

A good trick for running the Power wire is to start from inside the vehicle. I poke a coathanger through the rubber grommet with the power wire well-taped to the end of the length of coathanger. Then, pour some rubbing alcohol on the wire, and work quickly pulling as much wire as you need through the firewall from the engine side. This method has always worked really well for me, and I've never had any problems. Alcohol dries quickly leaving no mess on carpet or wires.

 

@toyomaniac71 , Thanks for the pics! I have two more questions if you don't mind.
1. Did you drill through the floor pan to mount the amp under the seat?
2. Is there an easy way to jumper the speaker wires in the dash? I ask because I want to mount my tweets high on the door rather than splash them off the windshield. I'll need to find space to mount a crossover in the door too I suppose.

 

Not worth it to tap in to the dash for what you're trying to do. You'll just want to run new wire from the amp to the crossovers, and then wire from crossovers to the tweeters and door speakers.

 

Sorry I haven't been paying attention to my own thread. I tucked the crossover for the passenger side behind the center console, there is a perfect spot for it to rest on the floor and it is perfectly hiden. I put the drivers side crossover above the large harness above the fuse panel.

Thanks for responding in my absence. I ran my power wires through the same grommet. Super easy to poke a hole through. I zipped tied my fuses to the top of the fuse lid right next to the battery, double sided tape didn't hold.

Looks great! Just like mine!

 

1. I'm not putting anything under the seats. Living in CO I need those vents to run some heat and I just chose not to place them there - I know that Jeremy living in AZ that was not an issue! Mr. Marv is building my sub box with amp rack that will all go in the back. I will post when I get them.
2. It's easy to put the front crossovers behind the kick panel. From there it's easy to fish a line up to wherever you want to put the tweeters. I know Car Toys has no problem putting crossovers in the door ( LAZY!) but after discussing with other members I don't think it's an ideal location.