Brice's NA V6 Build

Did it myself, it's fairly easy as long as you have the instructions. The transgo kit came with instructions that were top notch in all but one place. If you do it yourself tell me and I can help you through what got me stuck If you were local we could even make a video explaining the whole deal, sadly that can't happen. Again it was an fairly easy 4 hour first time job. In all honesty now that I've done it I could probably do it in like an hour. In case your curious the kit was like $98 dollars and WELL worth the money. If you do do it be sure to get gaskets, a torque wrench and petroleum jelly or assembly lube. (These things don't come with the kit lol)

 

That hard pipe across the top of the intake manifold, close to the firewall which your rear pcv hose is attached to. That is just mounted to the top of the intake manifold yes, not plugged into it, correct?

Another way to run a V-engine, is a both valve covers routed into the catch can, with a filter on the can. Then there is the exhaust method, which create a vacuum pressure differential and pulls it out. I am not to sure the specifics of that methods, but I have seen it a few times.

 

As in connected to the manifold to see vacuum/boost? No it isnt. That hardline is just bolted to a bracket. I have my check valve and filter there so they are easier to access when I put my hood on, rather than having to get to the back of my drivers side valve cover.

 

Just talked to LCE and said they just vent to atmosphere.

There was a guy here a while ago who had a pretty sophisticated solution using some type of electric solenoid. Not sure he's around anymore though @anothernord

Trying to map some methods out in my head using a handful of check valves but it seems overly complex after 4 and not really worth it. Apparently it's pretty beneficial to be pulling vacuum through the pcv though so I'm somewhat determined to solve this.

After more reading routing pcv pre turbo seems like a bad idea, even with a catch can. In non boosted conditions leaving it stock will function exactly as intended but once you hit boost you need a different approach. With check valves you could set it up to vent to atmosphere as soon as you hit boost but then you're dealing with a vacuum leak so you'd also need some type of switch on the vent to change from intake, metered air while non boosted to atmosphere, non metered air while boosted.

This is all pretty involved and it seems to be the biggest issue plaguing N/A to boosted engine conversions so it would be nice to find a concrete solution.

 

Concrete solution? Leave it stock. Probably won't hurt anything. @vasinvictor has 14psi through his stock setup and no issues. I'm doing a can and atmosphere because "Horsepower bro" And once again, THESE ENGINES MAKE LITTLE TO NO BLOW BY, so it doesn't really matter what you do as long as you don't let crap in through the valve covers. Heck if you're super concerned/worried just pop little filters on both valve covers and you'll probably be fine. And as long as the crank case vents in some fashion whatsoever you really can't hurt anything

 

The exhaust method, with a breather on the opposite valvecover. You'd have to look up how to do it exactly though, as it might be more intricate than what I just stated. It will pull vacuum though.

 

With a stock setup anytime you hit boost you're sending all that blowby out of the vent and back into your intake.

Having it vent atmosphere is just a default solution IMO. There are advantages to having the blowby sucked via vacuum and the vacuum apparently also helps the crank actually turn.

 

Yeah I've seen it mentioned a few times but as you say I think the intricacy of the system turns a lot of people away so there's not a lot of documentation on it.

 

We are all clear on the fact that the pcv is a check valve correct? And at boost it will close? No big deal if it closes for a bit. And I'm not sure if it matters if the pcv is hooked up to vacuum or not since it's not like these things spew oil...

 

What exactly do you mean by "out of the vent and into the intake"?

 

I have my PCV hooked up stock and the vent side of the valve cover is connected to a pre-turbo vac source (intake tube). I haven't had any issues with it running this way. Granted mine is a 3rz, but it should be the same concept.

 

So if one end is closed and you're building blowby pressure it follows that it would go out the other end.

Furthermore, blowby volume is proportional to engine load/rpm so during boost, which also increases blowby pressure, you have the greatest amount of pressure built up in the crank case which can no longer vent through the pcv since we know it's a check valve and is closed.

The stock setup for the vent is intake just after MAF so that's where all your blowby is routed under boost.

Just spit balling here as I'll likely just vent to atmosphere but I can tell you from personal experience with a s/c for 170,000 miles that you will have tons of gunk all though your intake not to mention a less than optimal pcv setup in general.

 

If you were to keep the pcv in the stock location then all you'd have to do is leave the crank intake to atmosphere, this would allow the pcv to close under boost but still create vacuum at idle, and allow the crank intake to vent under boost.

If we are gonna set a concrete way to deal with this so people stop being confused then I vote we settle on venting to atmosphere through a catch can and putting a check valve on the clean air side. I'm gonna be making a mega "How to turbo your 5vz" thread and I want this information in it, and I'd rather it be a solid info that we know works so people can get as much information as possible in one place. What I'm seeing is that there are multiple ways to do this pcv thing correctly, now it's just a matter of which one should be the main way to do it.

 

If the vent is to atmosphere then you'll have a vacuum leak since you'd be pulling unmetered air through the clean air vent and into your intake.

 

The clean air vent for the crankcase isn't connected to the intake manifold, not even on the stock setup. The pcv is the only thing attached to the intake manifold, and if you go with catch can all you have to do is plug the nipple it had plugged into to prevent a vacuum leak.

 

The vent side is attached post MAF on the intake and the pcv side is attached after the TB on the intake manifold stock.

 

Oh yeah, I thought you meant it had a nipple on the intake manifold. At this point I'm not even sure what's happening with your pcv, vent situation so its up to you man. Again my pcv dumps into a catch can. My crank vent draws through a filter.

 

Here is a good pic on how the pcv is operating and how the air flows through it. Just so every is on the same page on how its works.

 

Thanks for posting this.

 

So I was spewing oil out my tailpipe...my fix (or so I thought) was buying this

$27 Vibrant 10289 1/8" NPT Oil Restrictor Fitting

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DB8TQI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The threads ended up not fitting...However since it had adjustable jets I had an idea. My current restrictor was .07 (way to big) I needed a .035 so what I did was is drop the .030 jet that comes with that restrictor down INTO the .070 restrictor. Risky? eh maybe... Needless to say it burns wayyyyyyyyyyy less oil. at 3000 rpm there's barely any burn. The kit came with a .060 and a .030 I think Ill drop them both into the .070 restrictor to have it set how I want. Pictures tomorrow.