Axle binding

Put a Daystar level kit on a while back and it sat alot higher in the front. Had to add a 1" lift block to level the "level kit". I noticed that my driver side cv binds when the front is lifted in the air. Thought is was the Daystar spacers. Just installed a full 3" OME/Bilstein setup thinking that it would fix the issue. Binding is just as bad or worse. Anyone having issues like this?. Did it with the factory and aftermarket CV's. Love the look but can't wheel like this. I added the procomp diff drop prior to the full suspension swap and no difference

 

When does the axle bind ? all the time when moving straight ?
When turning corners ?
In 4x4 or 2 wheel drive ?
When was your last wheel alignment ?
The inner joints on your constant velocity axles plunge in and out as you turn . If the original axle was binding for any reason , something with your frame is terribly out of alignment

 

If I jack the front end up say to change tire or something, at full droop the wheel wont spin because of the bind. Turned or straight, doesn't matter. Never had aligned. Didn't think that would affect the shafts being over extended? Driving on road is fine. Just can't flex it out.

 

That is really strange there....sorry im not of any help but id have to agree with gearcruncher that something is really messed up under there! Being that both sets of cv's have done it including the oem's something is really off. Ive seen some cv angles that are super crazy where guys stack lifts and the angles are terrible and even that hasnt ever caused them to bind up to where the wheel wont spin.

 

Im sure that this is obvious but make sure your hubs are set to "free" if you have them and that your in 2wd. Also, have you tried jacking up both fronts and trying to spin the tires? Sometimes the locking hubs can get junk in them or dry up and stay locked in even if the dial is turned to "free". My passengers side dial did this and I just had to clean and grease it to fix. This would account for the locking when jacked up but being free while driving

 

Doesn't have locking hubs. Lifting front and letting both tires hang only the front will bind to the point of not spining. Can feel a slight hangup in pass but not bad. I have 881 with blistens set to top notch.

 

Despite the ridiculous amount of preload on those coils the suspension can only droop as far as the 5100 will let it which is basically stock. so it technically still shouldn't bind anything up.

 

Set up put me at 2.5" of lift. Didn't think that would be to much lift? Attached is before and after

 

Pic of front suspension setup?

 

Bought kit from wheelers. Wanted 3" lift. They sent the 881 and Bilstein for 2.5 and OMU enhancers for the extra 1/2". This is without the enhancers.

 

2.5" is the max allowable suspension lift on a 4X Tacoma...
...staying within the factory's engineered travel parimeter.
~ pre-runners can push to 3" lift... but who cares about 2wd ~

A proper alignment is mandatory after changing the suspension components.

Your outer CV boot fins look like they're touching...
and this friction of the boot ribs at full droop could be causing your bind.
Assuming you're pictures posted are at full droop on a jack ?

This boot bind will be lesser when weight is on the truck's front suspension.
Exception being if the suspension's strut coils are jacked up to their max.
Rule is... you should be able to slide a piece of paper between the boot's fins
when the weight is on the front end and when static.

Though I employ a 2.5" lift as well...
my suspension lift is actually nearer to 2.25" when static.

Rule here is... the suspension lift should be set to 40/60
meaning the up/down travel when at the normal ride height
should see about 40% up travel and 60% down travel remaining.

If ya ride around with the suspension nearer it's upward travel limits.
If will ride harsh and wear components (and CV boots) more quickly.

What size tires ? (they look stock height - smallish)
Tire height is what really allows for clearence under the suspension/drive components.
Utilizing the suspension to dictate ride height, stand alone, is not the correct way.
Your tires need to stuff upwards into the wheel wells somewhat.
And trimming those wheel wells to allow for upwards tire movement
is likely what needs to be done here.

^ Is probably why others think your suspension looks to be more then 2.5"

Proper up/down travel settings are what allows the suspension to move fully
within it's engineered suspension travel.
Over extending those engineered travel parimeters...
will likely create further issues - premature wear.

I'm guessing you have your CO's cranked up to their max to increase lift.
But max droop should only occur accasionaly when at full extension off road.
Not not all the time drivibng down a flat road. hence... 40/60

I run my CO's at about 2.25"
and sport 295/75/16 tires (34")
I had to clearance the front wheel wells for compensation.
Not increase the suspension's lift.

285/75/16


295/75/16


Suspension improvements are not meant to solely create lift.
And tho' that may be a partial by-product of that.
It is not the correct way.

I'd suspect you need to lower your CO's ride height a little
by turning down the collar(s) somewhat.

If increasing ride height is all you really care about...
ya need to lose the ifs front suspension and go SA.

But realize even then... there are limits.

I personally think you need swap up to a big ford truck
if being taller then everyone else on your block
is on your list of importance.
As the common Tacoma 4X will have it's limitations.
And can never be as tall as a full sized ford or chevy street queen.

--------

oh and stuffing even 285's ain't as easy as
simply increasing the suspension's lift...

 

Pics are on its weight (not jacked up).
Tires are 265/75
I am running same set up that 90% of lifted people on here. Just can't seem to figure out why my results are different. I was waiting a to let it settle some then retorc before the alignment. Maybe I will get it done sonnet than I wanted and see what happens. I am sorry but cv ribs touching wouldn't cause a tire to bind to the point of not spinning. My CO' are set on top notch because that is where Wheelers told me to set them to get the 2.5. Should I remove to the middle notch and add back the enhancers?

 

I am running same tire height and CO height as you so why do you assume I am looking to have the tallest truck on the block. I am looking to run a 265/85. Not into a tire as wide as a 285.

 

If you have OME coils on those shocks the shock is supposed to be set at the lowest setting so you don't exceed the recommended height limit, you need to also have an alignment done afterwards your shit will be all out of wack after you change your suspension height our any adjustable components.

 

That's the issue! I set them at the top setting with the 881. I am way to high!! Will reset them this weekend. Next question is how much will my rear leafs settle?