Brice's NA V6 Build

boiling brake fluid would cause the peddle to go soft. If you think your brake fluid boiled, it needs to be replaced immediately. But yeah, I don't know what I'm going to do about that part of the brake lines. I'm going to wrap my down pipe to keep the heat away from the lines, the A/C line, etc...

 

Maybe not boiled but got hotter than usual. I'll flush the system when I do brakes.
For my A/C lines I just tied them to the inner fender, Eventually I'll get a turbo blanket but for now some Rockwool will do. IN other news... The knock sensors are still workin! (as far as I know) I'd say the chevy SU1075 is a valid replacement. No codes a'tall. For some reason when I let off the gas the truck will die every once in awhile... Its usually when I'm deceling from a high speed or just coming off boost, as long as the throttle doesn't close completely after boost or high speed then everything is just fine. Overall I'd say Im done with my install for now. Eventually an AEM, injectors and Meth are in order but until funds for that arise I'm done


(oh and I have a bunch of videos to render...)

 

Why do you say not to worry about the angle? The heat comes from the header.

I ask about the cable you used because I recently looked into how pcv valves actually work and they restrict flow at high vacuum and open gradually till equal pressure is on either side which opens them fully then completely closed if the vacuum is going to opposite direction. The brake booster needs high vacuum to be effective so that may have been the issue.

 

Hey thanks for putting all this info and stuff here, articles etc...

 

A turbo running at 8psi will see substantially less heat than a turbo running at its max rated performance.

His PCV system is completely removed from the intake system and will have no effect on the vacuum.

What may have happened is when you boost, that shuts the check valve on your brake booster which will cause your brakes to go stiff. If they stay like that, might have damaged the check valve by jamming it closed partly

One of these days, when I feel really stupid and brake, I'm going to try to convert the stock vacuum brake booster into a hydro booster running off the power steering pump.

 

Haha that sounds fun. Lemme know if that happens. I had to remove that check valve as it was preventing some sort of venting and was causing my valve covers to seep oil quite a bit, took it off and no problems.

 

Loy performance Igniter retainer. -$50 (quality stuff) not really lol

Loy performance A/C retainer -$35

Relocated the o2 sensor for AFR's I'm idling between 14.6 to 15.2 which is far better than before. I won't be able to get it super steady till the AEM.

 

How the heck do I add my build link as words but still as a link (hyperlink)??

 

The heat addressed by the article is the heat soak effect that occurs after engine shut down. All the heat from the header and down pipe go to the turbo and center housing after shut down because it is so much cooler. The amount of heat the center housing sees after shut down is the highest amount it will see ever which is why it is so important to have your angle right and a proper coolant siphon in effect, at least according to the article.

 

The valve on your pcv vent?

 

Write your words, then highlight them and click the chain link picture in the editing tools bar.

 

No the one on the fresh air intake for the drivers side cover, which I will now abbreviated as FAI lol

 

Thanks strange Asriel dude!

 

So you had a one way valve on there before and it was giving you trouble? Have you thought about routing both ends of the pcv to the catch can, or using dual cans? I've seen a few people report good results that way.

I think I'm going to run 2 cans and have the can discharge tubes routed down under the engine somewhere where an emissions tech won't be able to see them

 

I'll probably just put a filter on it for now and just get a 4 port catch can later

 

Nice to see another confirmation of the o2 relocation working out. It's only an issue on truck that have a bank 1 wideband. (99-04 5vz with automatics) You narrowband guys, consider yourself lucky. My truck is still goofy sometimes (throw p1133 sensor switching code) due to lack of heat/flow but mostly it's acceptable. It was nearly undriveable before o2 relocation.

Also I keep the totally stock PCV system intact (which you really should keep functional). I simply vent the rear (driver) breather. Not even a filter, not that it wouldn't be a good idea. The 5vz doesn't really make any appreciable amount of blowby in boost. With 3 turbo trucks now, I've never wiped any oil off the firewall because of it. Part of that is due to the PCV system being functional and keeping the oil rings sealed better, among many other benefits of a functional PCV system. Even running 14lb boost, I never even used a check valve on the IAC or brake booster. What can I say, I like to live on the edge...

 

Looking at the internal construction of the bearings and cartridge, you can see that how the oil will pool of the angle is too far from 0°. The second portion is then the drain path and size. Larger is better. Then there is PCV back pressure, as noted in the picture.

 

I think that FAI port having a check valve would cause "gurgling" as they said which would also cause pooling? Regardless, after removing that check valve I'm not seeping oil anymore, and not blowing it all over the place. Thanks for posting this.

Some Of my newest issues are these.

-I need/want to satoshi my grill and bumper for better air flow to the IC and oil cooler.

-Bigger IC? Boost temps are around 115 or so

-Exhaust drone sucks at 2000-2500 rpm, so resonator

-Fix off boost/accel stalling

-Move wastegate post IC for higher boost

 

I had oil dripping from turbo and out the exhaust until I put in a restrictor and not a problem since. 5vz makes good oil pressure. Also an interesting note, at idle, without restrictor, my low oil pressure dummy light would come on.

 

Does anyone here have an oil pressure gauge installed?