What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Sweeeeeeeeeet!!!!!

 

Yea i can snap some for you later today!

 

Used the bamf relocation for first gens but did a descent amount of fab work to get it where I wanted. For the crossmember to be all the way up (almost touching the bed) the frame plates included didn't work for me as half of the crossmember would be above the frame... had to plate the ends of the crossmember then weld the bottom half of them to the frame plates and gusset the top. (pics later in case this was confusing)

 

Thanks guys, that's kinda what I figured. I wasn't able to find any info that would conclusively make one coolant better than the other... I guess I'll stick with the green stuff.

 

sooo nice, I love white trucks, sounds like a successful swap

 

Does your diff hit it at full compression? I thought I have heard about this happening before, maybe it was on a second gen...

 

I think that's on 2nd gen, the spare isn't even close to the diff.. But I still need to flex it out to find out.

 

Ordered a swing away tire carrier bumper today. So f-ing pumped.

 

Temps finally fell below 90ºF so I got a chance to replace my boy's Air / Fuel sensor as well as the O2 sensor (more colloquially known as the upstream and downstream O2 sensors, respectively). And I didn't have to cut the heat shield off . If anyone's interested, I can post a short little vid. A flexible head ratchet is absolutely essential, for any of you looking to do this. It takes about an hour, 10 of your best choice words, new sensors (obviously), a couple flaps of skin, tetanus shots, some blood, ice packs, PB blaster, towels, and a vacuum.

Reasons why you need these:

• Flexible head ratchet: will allow you to get into the weird angle of the 12mm nuts. This is impossible with the regular ratchet. Plus, you get to keep your heat shield! Yay.
• The heat shields have somewhat sharp edges. You'll cut yourself. You'll bleed.
• You'll probably misjudge / forget the distance between your forehead and your ride's body. Enjoy the welts as a result of making contact.
• Towels will help soak up the excess PB Blaster you used to get your nut.
• The plug for the rear sensor is actually under the passenger seat. It's easiest to just take out the seat to get to it. But since it's out, you may as well vacuum, hence the sucking machine.

 

Red has silicates in it, and many claim the silicates will cause the waterpump to fail prematurely. Mine started to seep after 8K miles on a new OEM WP when I ran red. Now I only run pink. Food for thought.

 

lol, pretty much... for what it is worth tho my bosch 12 volt impact fit nicely on both sets of nuts with a short deep well socket had the studs out in about 20 sec's (nut was rusted to the stud)... getting them back in was what took longer...

 

Pics for @quetzal & @a.smo ... Uptravel looks small in some of the pics but it's just the camera angle...

 

That's awesome! Thanks for the pics. I'll most definitely need to cut out the rear cross member.

 

To run 12s properly... yes you will

 

I'll be doing lots of cutting and grinding shortly. I also have some frame plates to weld up. How much shock do you have showing at ride height?

 

Red and pink are are the same stuff. One is just already diluted with water. My water pump failed after 30k miles and it was the green stuff...

After reviewing all I could find, as long as you don't mix the different types of coolant or put the newer OAT or HOAT in a vehicle with a radiator that can't handle it.... All should be fine. There has been mixed results on which ones help prevent corrosion or extend the life of water pumps. Mixing the different types has a tendency to eat the seals causing premature water pump failures. Obviously, it is advisable to stick with whatever is OEM but there is no consensus for one being better than another.

On a side note, color isn't always a good indicator of what type of coolant is being used.

 

I only have the Dewalt 899 It's like trying to stuff a sausage in a cupcake

 

I have 4in shock shaft showing at ride height with a 33" tire and a hi-lift in the back. At full bump i have about a little over 1/4 shaft showing and at full droop i have about 9.5" showing at that angle.

Worked out pretty well for me being able to use the whole shock pretty much

 

Those are 12s? Holy shit, the most I'd go is 10s unless I cut the bed

 

Nice! That's awesome!

He's running 10s. I'm planning 12s.