Dakota's Yota Build (Long Travel, Chevy 63s, and BS)

I brought in mine through the back, mainly cause I have the back areas cut out too. But I also deleted my sunglass holder completely and fiberglassed mine.

 

Damn guess I need to pull the console out and cut the back out, But leave a chunk where the mounting screw goes
I'm just using OTRATTW switches.
Ran (1) 12 Gauge Power Wire
(1) 12 Gauge Ground Wire
(1) 16 Gauge Illumination Wire
(6) 16 Gauge Relay Acc Wires

Yeah guess I'll do that. I really don't want to mess with fiberglass lol.

 

Why are you using 12ga wire? For the amperage running through those switches 18 or 20 would suffice. Hell, I saw someone use cat5e once to run from the switches to the relays, really quite clever.

 

Running Cat5 would be pretty nice as long as you can get all the connectors done right.

 

Cereal? @Whitecloud and my electrician buddy both thought that 12ga with a 10 amp fuse would be safest. It's definitely made this whole process a major PITA

 

Did you run the 12 for all the piggybacks? I would just do 12 as the main and then you can step down to a smaller for the rest of the piggybacks.

 

Yeah I did. Eff me That would be so much nicer lol! I'm gonna re-do that with 16s for all the piggybacks. Should be way easier to make smaller loops and I can crimp them better. *sigh*

 

Sorry buddy.

 

K so I fucked up

 

Well I cut out my panel more - good


So i ran out of 14-16 ga disconnects making the new piggybacks so I decided to work on my locker switches. I bought all OTRATTW switches for the lockers so they match. Anyways I just used a tester to "attempt to determine" what wire was what on the factory locker. Welp, I thought I had it figured out but I just jabbed some wires in there to the new locker switch and flicked it to test it and the switch blew. Illumination on the new switch doesn't work anymore but the led on the factory switch does....
But now the factory switch no longer has any power going to it. Can't get the relay for the locker to click. No locker power and I haven't found a fuse yet soooo...
That's how this is going

 

Update - so illumination led works on the new switch. I plugged it into my compressor switch which was working fine. It won't power on the compressor or light up the logo. So I guess this brand switch is fucked? Still can't figure out why the factory locker switch doesn't have power either

 

update: new rear locker switch actually is fine and functional. So it just appears I blew the factory locker fuse....
EXCEPT THAT FUSE DOESNT EXIST

 

In the mean time can you wizards tell me how to wire this? Not sure what I did wrong, maybe it's related to note about jumping #7 to #8. I did Do that and it appears the factory wiring has a + and - illumination wire....

 

YES!
If anyone is curious this is your locker fuse

 

Woah woah woah.. Only thing that matters: does the locker actually engage and it's just the switch light that's blown?? Or the fuse to the whole harness??

 

This is what really makes my brain hurts.
With the key on
Pin 4 - which the diagram shows as the IGN does not show power...
Pin 3 - which the diagram shows as the wire to the relay *shows* power...

Seems backwards to me. Ugh help.

 

We're back in business the locker does indeed work again lol. All the switches are fine. I just blew a fuse.

 

Phew

 

Panel looks good. That is as much as I cut mine. Were you able to source more of the connectors?

 

Sweet good to know. I'll pick some up today. Do you have any advice on wiring my locker switch?