New BakFlip and RevolverX2 Models for 2016'S NOW AVAILABLE for Pre-Order! Ship date is 1/15/16

Did you ever find out about the VooDoo mount or the Rocky Mounts fitting?

I've mostly been interested in the Rocky Mounts Clutch SD (obviously it's what fits our bed rails) and would like to know how well that would work with the BakFlip installed. From the pictures I've seen I am doubtful it would work ...

Here's a pic I grabbed off the internet of the Rocky Mount on the front bed rail (I think this is a Tacoma? but should give an idea anyways for people who aren't familiar with them):



Which doesn't seem like it would give enough clearance for a bike to bolt on even with the BakFlip folded all the way forward ... maaaaybe it miiiight fit, just barely, but I'm doubtful:



Soooo ... maybe that means I would need to use the KB VooDoo crossbar mount:



Which I think the bar would clear when the cover was down, but the cleats probably would need to be removed when not in use. This would let me put the bar just behind where the cover flips up at the front of the bed, and not have to remove/reinstall it every time I needed it at least.

Anyone want to take a guess at the fitment of the KB VooDoo based off the photos, or maybe give me a measurement of how far from the bed rail to the bottom-side of the cover when closed so I could do an estimate?? Any help is appreciated!

 

I don't get my truck until the end of this month so i haven't figured it out yet. After looking at pictures, i doubt that the @KB Voodoo responded saying he didn't know. I doubt that the mounts would stick out far enough to clear the cover. Keep us posted to see what you figure out. I hope someone can chime in with the clearance from the bar to the cover!

 

Are you guys asking if you can leave my bike mount in place, with the cover on?

 

I can't speak for @JoeRacer302, but that's what i'm wondering. With the lowered rails with the 2016 backflips, will your cross bar still work and will we be able to close the cover leaving the mounts in place. One thing i thought of is possibly attaching your bar to the bottom of the cleat rather than over the top. You'd lose ability to hold a load, but would probably work just fine holding a bike. Thoughts?

 

If you attach the bar to the bottom of the cleat, and if the rail is lowered, you should have clearance, Clarence

 

How did those new seals look and work out? Different from the first shipping?

 

Hey. Do you mind measuring your cross bar to tell me the distance from end to end length wise from where the bolts would attach to the cleats?

 

54.25"

 

Looks like the new S-clamps take away approx 9/16 to 5/8 from both sides of the bed, resulting in a span of ~53" between mounting holes on the cleats. heh...any custom cross bars?

 

Got a drill?

 

Yes, What do you have in mind?

 

If you got the XRXS bars, you could just drill new holes where the cleats mount to the bars.

 

would the bar still fit with the cleats/rails closer together?

 

Good to know!

 

Also, i believe @JoeRacer302 and i are looking for a solution where we can close our tonneaus leaving the bike mounts on your cross bars in place....

 

Did anyone that received the replacement seals decrease the amount of water getting into their truck beds?

 

I m about to pull the trigger on a bakflip fibermax wonder if you guys can help direct me to where the best place to buy from and best price out there!

 

Maybe a little bit less than the original seal, but enough water still gets in that it'll soak anything in the bed. I cannot keep anything that can't get wet back there unless it's in a watertight case. I mainly have to pile stuff in my cab anytime it rains.
IMHO these covers are not worth even half of what they cost. They protect from sunlight and honest thieves, that's it.

 

Got my bakflip fibermax this week thanks to Morrie "https://www.tacomaworld.com/members/rockinroad.41734/"
Great customer service gave me a good deal and had my cover and pop a lock from him in in less then a week!
Install was easy but took my time with tge heat we have here took me 4 hours! On the pop a lock I followed the directions of one of the members on her since it didn't come with any. Routed the wire to the passenger kick panel on the video he showed to spike the greend wire from the actuator to the red and blue to green on my trd off road that was backwards! Lock when I unlock the doors and unlock when I lock em! Swapped the wires and all works good!
On the right rail system rubber seal that was a little tare I didn't know if it was serious enough and if I should call back about it I sure don't want to send the cover back! Also I thought there was a clip and a strap to to hold the panels in open position but it didint come with any just 2 little hoops shown in the pictures

 

For anyone who is still tuned in after all these months, I now have had the time to start to seal the bed with the silicone. The first thing that I did was to seal the sides, where the rails directly contact the upper side lip of the bed. It is here that the rubber flap seal is inadequate where it dips down into the grooves of the bed lip. First, I cleaned all surfaces with a clean cloth and 91% isopropyl alcohol. I masked off the area that I wanted to cover with blue painter's tape to create an even smooth line with the black silicone that I used. I used nitrile-gloved hands to smooth the silicone into the groove. Where the rubber seal from the rail and the bed side cap met, I made sure to push in both in a forward and backward motion to get some silicone under those tiny open holes that the water gets in to. Once that was done, I pulled the masking tape to create a smooth edge. You don't want to let the silicone cure on the tape of you will never get it off. Here are a few pictures to illustrate:



After I let this cure for a day, I moved onto the front leading edge, somewhere where I also suspect that water leaks onto the rails. This, too, was masked with blue tape.I lifted up the flaps, exposing where the rails squash down the gasket that was installed prior to installing the rails. Onto this, I put large blobs of silicone to sandwich between the gasket, rails, and rubber insulation flap. After pushing down the rubber insulation flap, I then smoothed out the outer layer to make a smooth seal. The tape was then peeled off, and a smooth edge remained.



In the next post, I will attempt to make more complex gaskets for the rear over the tailgate.

As an aside, my Rok-Blok and side seals have performed great over the past six months. Here are pictures of them installed: