Colorado B.S. Thread

We get paid but it's terrible. So yes there are alot of warranty jobs that gp to the less certified techs. Mostly because all the certifield techs are stuck doing recalls

 

Damn, didnt know. Sorry for wasting a full day of yours on my rear main!

 

Free online night photography class!

Just wanted to post this up. It showed up on my FB feed. I've never taken any of these classes, no idea how much info there will be, but I would imagine there could be some good info/tricks/tips.

https://www.creativelive.com/night-...m_campaign=unreg_look_night_photo_nf_video_v1

Looks like this page says the classes are available one each day (broken into 5 different sections). If you want to watch them anytime, then you'd have to pay.

https://www.creativelive.com/night-photography-week?via=header-banner_-1

 

I'm greasing my drive shaft and the rearmost zerk (just in front of rear diff) looks like it's been painted over. Anyone else experience this?

 

NBD... just scrape the paint off the hole and fill'er up.

 

I got mine at NAPA for... $20 I think it was? No, $25. It's red, not a total cheapy, but my father has a nicer one. As for grease, I just grab whatever of the proper rating (NGLI #2). I'm only on my second tube ever, and both have been red grease, which I kind of like since it makes it easier to tell when it's coming out clean.

I can't recall if my zerks look like they've been hit with paint or anything, but I do of course have to clean them off every time. Stuff should flake off the end pretty easy if it's covering the seam between the ball bearing and surface. Once you're sure you won't be forcing anything into the joint, just jam the thing on there and squeeze away. You'll want a shop rag/(blue)towel or something. After a few good pumps watch for it to start coming out the seams like the top of your pic. I like to go until it starts coming out clean all the way around, or at least in a couple of spots and not just the first point it squirts out. Then wipe off all the excess as you spin the thing by hand a few times to work it in/out/whatever. Whatever excess you leave will end up splattering across the bottom of the truck when you get it up to speed, if you care. Also, you don't have to remove the exhaust shield to get to the front one if you position the shaft just right and your hands aren't too big. But it is a pita, even with the shield out of the way.

Also, I know you said you were at 30k so if you haven't used one before I'm hoping someone else did your service and the shaft has been lubed before now. I try to hit mine at least every other oil change if not every. I know that's overkill for what's actually needed, but there are a lot of people who do/recommend that same schedule. Make sure you hit all 5.

 

Thanks for all the tips. I ended up with a pistol grip gun and Lukas red n tacky grease per @Squeaky Penguin suggestion. I was able to locate and hit all 5 zerks. I ended up removing the exhaust shield for the one in front of the transfer case even though it sounds like that may not have been necessary. It was only two bolts though so not a big deal. Sadly, unless the dealer greases the shaft as part of their oil changes or services before 30k it has not been touched. I have never been a "car" or "truck" guy and have never even done my own oil changes . I am trying to change that and learn more about and take better care of my truck. Later I am changing the diff and transfer case oil which I helped @CO Ryan with last year so hopefully that should go pretty smoothly. If you can think of any other zerks that are easy to hit or other easy maintenance items that have probably been neglected over the last 30k miles please let me know so I can take care of them

 

And now I'm listening to the Nature and Landscape presentation active right now...

The Night Photo class starts at 10am our time tomorrow.

 

I just tuned in... I need to work on my exposure adjustments. I havent really messed with it.

 

I don't use Manual enough, which is this guy's go-to. I do use aperture priority quite a bit, and then shutter speed when I'm shooting moving objects (like a bee).

 

yeah, I mostly only use manual.

But, I use a lot of different ISO's. I'll have to try what he does and keep it close to 100 and adjust the shutter speed more. Good info though, looking forward to the night photo presentations!

 

I flipflop between locking in ISO 100 and using Auto ISO. I get lazy a bunch and leave Auto on when I shouldn't.

 

Earlier he talked about the need to block light through the eyepiece when your eye is not to the eyepiece... and he mentioned high end cameras have a built-in shutter to close/block light through the eyepiece. Since I've never handled a high-end body, I didn't know that existed. Good to know.

 

Yeah, didnt know that either. Being that I have a mirrorless camera, I'm guessing I dont have that issue since it seemed related to the mirrors/light meter.

 

Some dude in my neighborhood asked me the other day if he could pick my plum trees.
I said sure, the squirrels usually get to them before I do anyway, help yourself.
He brought me a jar of plum jam today.


Now if I can just bag a b-day deer...my day will be complete.

 

Happy birthday bud!

 

I cannot get the drain plug loose on my front diff. Have used PB blaster multiple times since yesterday and the damn thing won't budge. It is starting to round out because the 10mm hex hole is shallow and whatever metal it's made out of is soft. Anyone have any ideas?

 

Have someone weld a nut to the face, allowing a wrench to be used.