Secondary Air Pump / taking it apart / $1400 / If you own a Tacoma you should read this..

Has anyone actually had a air pump failure from this filter? Its a good idea but most the issues I see are stuck valves with only fix to replace. Need to figure out a way to evacuate the moisture in our systems and maybe extend valve life.

 

I've been wondering this as well.

The stuck valves send you into limp mode, bad valves just give you a CEL.

I'm more interested in valve maintenance.

 

I just opened up mine, foam looks good, and clean, but only 40,000 on the clock. I did see little pellets in the bottom, before the foam, that looks like tiny rat turds. Wasn't foam, crumbled when ground between fingers, looks like the factory had bugs in everything. I have that external filter on the way. My cousin has a 2014 DCSB Sport with no issues at 70,000+ miles.

 

Toyota and all manufacturers have therefore been lazy since the 1970s. Smog pumps were present on the 2F starting in 1975. The engine doesn't run dirty per-say, air injection just dilutes the exhaust to meet arbitrary tailpipe standards. Toyota implements it because they designed an engine that met 2005 rules but by 2012 the rules had tightened so they do this as an alternative to a new engine. I don't think the 2GR-FKS needs it but may at some point in the future and apparently to meet Federal rules in 2008 it wasn't necessary since my Tacoma does not have this air pump. Maybe the OP's truck is a California spec? I dunno if that was still being done back then, but my '78 FJ40 and '91 Pickup both were Federal models and had different outfits compared to CA models.

From an engineering perspective it's probably better to have one engine configuration and ECU for all 1GR-FE, all models, all years, and patch on a system that lets it pass emissions specific to a year. The alternative would be a hardware and software control nightmare. It's easier for a person to pop the hood, see an air pump and know it's properly emissions spec'd for a model year and location. This is not unusual, some early cars had catalytic converters, some didn't (my 1978 FJ40 didn't need them), for example. It did have a smog pump, though, but back then it really was just a hack so it's not unusual to have a gutted air pump just to pass visual that doesn't do jack. As long as your truck is running well and passes the tailpipe sniffer the letter of the law is met even with a sham manifold injection system.

 

I completed the filter mod on mine today. The foam was intact and had a small pine needles stuck to it. There's really nothing to keep the filter from being pulled into the fan blades of the pump if it begins to fall apart. Friction is all that holds it in place. The design could be improved if the filter were in the cap or tube with a press fit stainless steel screen behind it to prevent debris of any kind from getting into the blades. I stopped at my local Auto Zone and picked up a universal breather with a 1" tube and then used a 1" ID hose with two clamps to connect the two pieces together. The filter mentioned in above posts has the rubber tube molded on but I didn't want to wait for one and had time this weekend. This fix won't solve the moisture issue with the system but it will solve the foam failure problem which leads to broken blades on the pump.

 

If you are referring to the filter which is addressed in this thread, that would be the exact reason multiple people here have cited for their pumps failure, including mine. (Am I missing something or did you not read anything on this lol??????)

 

As for an update, I found an 08 at a junk yard about 100 miles from me that still had the pump. With one year warranty it came to about $140. Much better than $1450 ish from the dealer. When the warranty runs out I will just take the foam filter out. I will probably take the worthless intake cover off and put on a breather like others have mentioned.

 

Dilution with fresh air will certainly reduce the PPM counts. I also understand that air injection helps the catalytic converter in its function to incinerate everything into oblivion. In other words, any unburned fuel in the exhaust will be burned in the cat(s) but that secondary burn (in the cat) requires additional oxygen.

 

^^ Exactly. The pump injects extra air in order to bring the cat converter up to temperature much faster, as well as burn off unburned fuel from the ultra rich cold start A/F mixture.

Mine is still functioning after 102,000 miles and ten years, but this thread definitely makes me want to pull the foam filter and replace with the breather filter. Probably do it this weekend. Thanks OP for making this informative thread.

 

My 2012 has less than 50,000 miles and it started throwing multiple codes (P2440, P2442, P0418) all relating to the secondary air pump a few weeks ago. It only happens when the engine is cold and ambient air temp is below about 85F. Thanks to my UltraGauge Blue, I am able to read and clear the codes without going into limp mode. I will definitely be pulling it apart for inspection when I have time to do so.

 

Sub'd this thread, sucks this pump can become an issue.

Someone mentioned 13's function differently on shutdown as opposed to startup? I hear mine on my 13 run on startup

 

My 2015 Air pump went out at 7,800 miles. Toyota replaced under warranty. The pump goes on at start up and shut down.

 

The pump on the 2012 only runs at cold start, 2013 and above runs both at start and shut down. I believe having the pump run at shut down was an attempt to correct the moisture issue and ultimate valve failure. At least that's my understanding...

 

Just did this simple mod. The foam was pretty clean for 100k miles. Mostly highway miles though so prob why it's semi clean.

 

Sounds like you need this thread.
The secondary injection valves (while related to the pump) are a whole different problem.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/secondary-air-injection-switching-valve.381997/

 

Wow your engine bay looks spotless...no wonder it was so clean

 

Bad habit from car show days.

 

I wonder if the quality of gas (brand, not octane) has any effect on air pump failure rate. I see so many people talk about using high end synthetic oil with a great oil filter and how it'll prolong engine life.

Using a good quality fuel is important as well. They are not all equal. Some foul more than others. Some have high water content. Some are just plain dirty. Ones like Shell, Mobil one, etc are found to run much cleaner.

Those with air pump failures: realistically, where is your "go to" place for fuel?

Those with higher mileage without failure?

Also, location where these failures happen the most? Where is everyone having the most failures? Environmental effects on these must have some bearing on longevity of this part...

 

I'm in NorCal with 99k miles and always used shell 91.

 

If moisture is the big issue, I wonder how many people who wash their engines and/or do a lot of trailing through rivers/etc. are more susceptible to this device failing?

In my area, you are allowed to clean the engine bay at the local do-it-yourself car wash. If I ever do that, you can bet I'm going to cover that corner of the engine bay.

OP - thanks for taking the time.