2nd Gen Courtesy/Runnging Board Lights Mod

This is how I wired the lights with an on-off-on switch because I wanted to be able to turn the lights on independently of the dome circuit.

I used all 18 gauge wire. Inline fuse. Waterproof butt connectors 14-16 and 18-22. I also used one tap splice for the dome light in the a-pillar.


Make sure if you already have a fuse buy the correct in line fuse holder.


There is a nice little place to run your power wire. You may need a hand to get it right on it.


Ground from switch

Power line coming in from top of frame just beyond the cross member. Here I used 2 14-16 butt connectors and split the power and ground lines into two lines one for driver side and one passenger side.

Split the wires again. A set for each light. 14-16 connector.

Wiring to the lights. These are the oem running boards. Drilled a couple of holes for wire ties. These lights only have 24 g wire so I stripped off an inch or so and twisted and folded over twice. I used heat shrink/waterproof 18-22 connectors and electric tape.

Cleaned up everything and added wire loom for aesthetics. Off to the cab.

A-pillar was easy but I didn't take any pics. I only tapped the blue wire. This is @larryde09 picture.







Under this panel is where the ground comes into the truck. Pull easy from rear to front to remove.

Remove foot rest. Remove side panel. Under the foot rest is a plastic cap the has to be removed to remove the side panel.



The yellow connector is the ground for turning on lights on independently of the dome circuit. The other black wire is the ground coming from the lights under the truck.

Where I brought the wires through the fuse panel. Ran out of 18g so I grab a piece of speaker wire. Silver/gray wire at bottom.

Here is the on-off-on switch. Took a little cutting for the switch to fit. The top is from the a-pillar. Middle is ground from the lights. Bottom is grounded at the yellow connector.




Now I can turn the lights on whenever I want, turn them completely off, or use them with the keyfob.



https://youtu.be/2Ga3yodbqzM






Here's the new switch.
https://www.oznium.com/gsw-45#photos ON-OFF-ON

 

Yes it would. ON when you want and ON/dimming OFF.
I'd suggest you also change the dome and map lights to LED in order to keep the dimming circuit from being overloaded...I don't know the specs on it's current capacity.

 

I have a 2016 Access cab and want to do the same - where is the best location to tie into the SPDT switch.......

 

If you buy an L.E.D. that replaces a festoon lamp it might have this:

which you would use to tie into the ground side of your dome light and the ground pin of your added SPDT switch. You could upgrade the wire which is like a 22 awg, but good luck running the wire from the overhead to the dash/switch position.

There is a overhead connector R44, Roof Console Box Assembly, pin 22. But such a new truck...

There also is an underdash connector 1D, pin 19.
Both are the dimming/ground of your interior illumination.

 

Where is the under dash connector 1D pin 29?

 

ummm..under the dash...

 

Sent ya a PM...

 

Just use a tap?

 

Yes..like the '05~'15...

 

Is that the power side?

 

Sorry...yes it is.

So fused juice to one side pin of the DPDT or SPDT switch-
other corner pin of switch to pin 19 on connector 1D,
Middle pin on the switch to the (+) of the added lamps.
Ground lamps.

 

This for a 2016...

 

First time I've seen it off the hot side. Thank you!!!

 

Size of fuse should be the amperage of the lights added together +30% for safety.

 

Dimming Circuit max amperage is unknown so as low LED lights you can get...

 

It's built with halogens in mind, any LED is going to come in far under that especially if the halogen bulbs are swapped with LED equivalents.

 

And your point is?..Where does the '15 have halogens inside the cab?

 

you don't see why that's relevant?

 

Do you know the added amps of all the lamps in the interior light circuit to add a +30% "protection"? On a '15 and the changed circuit of an '16+?

 

The dimming wire for the dome light is a ground. The diagram you posted looks more like a reverse light circuit than the "courtesy/dome light dimming ground circuit.