Closed (for now): Group Buy: IEDLS Polyurethane Carrier Bearing

nooooo.... dont give up!

 

I played around with all spacings up and down. I spun it around, and mounted it upside down with spacers to get it back to the stock height and it was alright but i still had take off vibes related to axle wrap. Played with axle shims etc and ended up at mounting it as it would be on the ranger, facing down with a flat stock across the top.

This made the joint angle out of the tcase pretty high downward then the center joint similar in the opposite direction then the pinion at near zero. This is less than ideal but overall it works the best for me and my lift height. Its also the simplest to try out first.

 

IN!

 

With having the CB very low, doesn't that make the operating angle of the 1st joint pretty extreme?

edit: just read your post after. No take off vibes? Nice.

 

This does not bode well..... Crom can do anything.

 

Thanks for the info. I too was wondering if having the CB lower, would help with angles. But.. Like you mentioned, the first joint is now at a new, not ideal, angle.

But.. You're right. It is the easiest to try first. So why not.

 

Haha thanks.

Got too much on plate, not enough time. Might do IEDLS bearing in future though.

 

The easiest way to do it is make sure the flange off the trans and the flange on the rear axle are parallel(either from factory or add a shim, I had to add a 2.5° shim, fat part towards the front of the truck to angle the flange down). Then drop the carrier bearing so the middle joint is almost neutral(.01 to .3 degrees)/ the two peice looks like a one piece..almost.

This move's the cb way down though which I don't really like.

You could try and mount the cb as high as possible so the first u joint by trans is near 0°, then you'd need to cancel the angle between the middle and rear u joints, but this puts those u joints at a much more severe angle than the above method.

 

well shit..

I'm just gonna try it with the new top plate up.. and see how it does. the biggest thing I'm worried about with that, is the clearance. but maybe it will be fine. maybe I will do what Crom did and say Eff it, not worth my time or the potential headache/new issues.

 

Having the first and last joint at similar and opposing angles and the center joint at 0* is less than ideal, this actually creates a driveshaft that is 90* out of phase. 1st and 2nd joints or 2nd and 3rd joints are meant to be canceled out, not 1st and 3rd. This is why when having the cb at a low position, the 1st and 2nd joint nearly cancel out and the rear most joint is close to 0, this allows it to move up and down due to axle wrap and have the least impact on oscillation.

The reason why most have success with 1st and 3rd joint cancellation with the center joint at 0 is due to the stock CB and how floppy it is... any angle seen at the stock CB means there is a side load on the CB which turns into even worse oscillation of the driveshaft within the CB. having it at 0 was the best situation for the stock CB. With the much stiffer ranger CB we can have angles at the CB and not worry about driveshaft movement as it doesnt flex nearly as much.


Ideally the CB would be raised to the point where the first joint was around .2* downward, then the center and rear joint at equal and opposing angles, this would keep the driveshaft up and out of the way more and angles and phasing would be proper to cancel out vibrations. Problem is AXLE WRAP. when you get on it that rear most u joint that was at 4* becomes 0 and now you created a big offset of angles that have no possible way to be canceled resulting in bad take off vibes due to inconsistent velocity of the driveshaft.


The thing i have learned with playing with driveline vibes on the tacoma. Biggest problem is Axle wrap. second was the stock floppy CB. It just takes a lot of trial and error to find what is best, as what looks good on paper or sitting there measured in your driveway is not NEARLY the same as under power.

 

Totally agree!

 

I wold agree, that's why I said easiest depending on one's lift/pinion angle, not really the best.

It works and keeps the u joint angles less severe with a higher lift. I am going to change around my setup to the way you described, carrier being up as high as possible to make the first u joint near 0°. The 2nd and 3rd shold then cancel since I added the axle shim's bringing the flange on the axle parallel(within .2° parallel) to the trans flange.

On the axle wrap issue, stock leafs are terrible with wrap, adding stiffer aals helps a bit, which is what I temporarily have now. Adding aftermarket leafs may be even better, but only a trac bar or similar could eliminate it almost entirely.

 

I have a single 2in aal and axle wrap is still pretty bad..... so dont get your hopes up!

 

You might want to do some fact checking.

Spicer says to make the pinon angle match the slope of the first shaft.

I snipped this picture out of their documentation.




My pinion is -2* from fist shaft and I have no unwanted vibrations other than initial take off shudder.

All my u-joints were in spec except for the fist one which is 5.05*.

I'm currently waiting on a stock CSB replacement to be delivered...

 

Damn it Josh, you're always thinking of cool shit. You're killing it . First the spod flush mount thing and now this(possibly). If you need any OEM measurements, let me know and I'll get em to you.

I always seem to see you pop up in any thread I'm look at haha

 

I can't see the picture that @Crom posted above. But I think this is the one he is talking about.

 

There's multiple setups/ways to do it. That's one of them from spicer, I've seen that one.

 

LOL! thanks man. IDK if I'm going to attempt this just yet. I want to try mounting it the regular way first and see how that does, then go from there. I'm hoping it doesnt make anything worse. I dont see how it could TBH. we shall see!

and sometimes it gets pretty slow at work..

 

Yeah a million ways to do it wrong. And one a right way.

It's geometry.

Spicer states that pinion should match slope of first shaft, not the TC as you indicated.

Right out of the Spicer install manual page 16-17.

• For a 2-shaft application, set up the first coupling shaft (sometimes called a jackshaft) so that the universal joint operating angle that occurs at the transmission end is 1 to 1-1/2 degrees.
• Install or tilt the axle so it is mounted on the same angle as the first coupling shaft (the centerlines of the axle and the first coupling shaft will be parallel)

Spicer further states that, BY FOLLOWING THIS PROCEDURE, THE UNIVERSAL JOINT OPERATING ANGLE AT EACH END OF THE LAST SHAFT WILL AUTOMATICALLY BE EQUAL.

That illustration refers to compensating for an exception. Here is the accompanying text

Check the actual universal joint operating angle at the rear of the first coupling shaft. If it is less than 1º and the transmission universal joint operating angle is greater than 1.5º, rotate the end yoke at the center bearing position so that the ears of the yoke are 90º to the ears of the tube yoke on the transmission end of the coupling shaft. As an alternative, rotate the slip yoke on the driveshaft 90º if the slip spline has 16 teeth​

And just to be clear, I'm only posting this because misinformation, when posted many times over, can be very hard to correct.

Personally for me, I'll have my DS rebuilt in a week with OEM CSB and will reinstall. I'll attempt to follow Spicers direction (if possible), and see how it plays out. Luckily for me I have a DS expert that I can persuade to assist me if I run into any issues.

Unsubbing this thread!

 

True! Let me know when you decide to do that job as I have to do all my u-joints (at least the 3? rears) and bearing. I may try to make it up Phoenix if it's gonna be done at a mod day and I know others with experience will be doing a similar job.