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Manual Hub Swap Question

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by CedarPark, Sep 15, 2016.

  1. Sep 15, 2016 at 11:02 AM
    #1
    CedarPark

    CedarPark [OP] Master of Destroying CVs

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    Dylan
    Cedar Park, TX
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    Lights & Lockers & Duals
    hey y'all,

    Went looking for CVs and managed to be the first one to get to a new pre facelift 4x4 4 banger manual. It's got locking hubs. Should they fit on mine? And any advise on anything else to pull? Going on a 3.4 auto. Getting an Aussie next week so these would be gold

    Thanks
     
  2. Sep 15, 2016 at 12:07 PM
    #2
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

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    Donahoe CO's, Deaver leaf paks, Lockright Locker, All Pro body armor ( sliders, front and rear bumpers ), All Pro under belly skids, Warn M8K w/Masterpull synthetic line, Dual Optima battery system, 4 ea LightForce Striker 170 offroad lights, 8 ea wired rock lights, and plenty more I'm sure
    you can

    but you will need use the donor's manual hubs, spindles and cv axles.
    As the two different drive assemblies do not share a commonality.
    So basically you will need utilize almost every component from the CV axle(s) outward.

    kool thing about swapping to the manual hubs
    besides the free wheeling when unlocked.
    Is that the manual hubs are free floating.

    Meaning: that the S knuckles/hubs will stay on the truck
    and allow it to be driven, even if the cv axle(s) were removed.
    Tho' you'd need plug up the holes in the front axle housing.

    With the shift on the fly hubs/spindle
    the outer cv axles cannot be removed
    or the hub/spindle assembly will separate and fall off the truck.

    Meaning: the outer cv axle(s) must remain in place to keep the hub/spindle assembly together.

    I think you can still shift into 4X on the fly
    but will require the hubs be locked to do so.
    Tho' I'm not 100% sure 'cause I haven't swapped mine.
     
  3. Sep 15, 2016 at 1:13 PM
    #3
    SafetyDang

    SafetyDang get your facts straight

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    Anaheim, CA
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    Swapped to Manual Trans & 4x4
    Dell you are correct. Shift on the fly still works but he will still need his hubs locked. I have a twin stick and shift from 2 to 4 all along the trail. Same goes for high low.
     
  4. Sep 15, 2016 at 6:14 PM
    #4
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

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    Donahoe CO's, Deaver leaf paks, Lockright Locker, All Pro body armor ( sliders, front and rear bumpers ), All Pro under belly skids, Warn M8K w/Masterpull synthetic line, Dual Optima battery system, 4 ea LightForce Striker 170 offroad lights, 8 ea wired rock lights, and plenty more I'm sure
    Thanks for the clarification Dang

    I wished I'd have swapped to manual hubs.
    But not doing so has never held me back.

    Besides now I'm too old and it's too much work ;)

    plus once you alter things... it's not always easy to convert back.
     
  5. Sep 15, 2016 at 6:29 PM
    #5
    CedarPark

    CedarPark [OP] Master of Destroying CVs

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    Lights & Lockers & Duals
    We ended up not doing it, didn't want to mess with the ball joint in the spindle... (again)
     
  6. Sep 15, 2016 at 6:30 PM
    #6
    maulcruiser

    maulcruiser Well-Known Member

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    Wilmington, NC
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    OME kit
    As said, get the CV, knuckle, and hub assembly. I did this conversion on my '96. I love being able to knock it into 2-low for finessing a trailer, and for the varying terrain here in NC. Also, and this is a highly debated subject, but having less parasitic loss due to less rotational mass could help MPGs, and could extend the life of the CV boots since they're not always spinning.
     
  7. Sep 18, 2016 at 8:38 PM
    #7
    SafetyDang

    SafetyDang get your facts straight

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    Dang
    Anaheim, CA
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    DC with 4x4 & MT Conversion
    Swapped to Manual Trans & 4x4
    Only regret in choosing manual hubs is that long travel isn't cost effective. Custom axles only. A cross between tundra shafts and manual hub outters. Trails less traveled told me to just convert to Add if I wanted long travel.
     

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