Tubing Firewall Required with Glass (another 35s thread)

Hey y'all,

For starters, I've read every thread I can find about running 35s on an IFS first gen plus that website with the first gen they took to baja. However, I was hoping to have a conversation regarding specific questions I have in the process.

-Has anyone done this with a 3"/1.5" lift with an additional 1" body lift? It would seem as the 1" would help a lot, since most LT first gen guys I've talked too with 35s say their kits provided approx 3.5 to 4" of traditional lift.

-I feel it would be a lot easier if I didn't have to run a 12.5" wide. I've read Toyos made a thinner 35 but I can't find them online. Anyone have any ideas? 16" wheel.

-if I got front glass, combind with a 4" taller ride height, would I still need to completely tube the firewall? I'm fine taking a saw to parts, but being in school I only have so much time.

-would wheeling (and DDing of course, but I can suck it up) be possible for a couple months before I can afford to regear? I want to lock the front and buy stronger CVs (any recommendations?) at the same time I regear to probably a 5.13 if I run 35s.

Thanks for the help y'all! I'm sure this question gets asked all the time and I'm sorry, was hoping to have a conversation about the specifics to see if it's at all practical or not.

 

The 1" BL will help keep the tire out of the firewall, depends on wheel backspacing also though. Not sure about a thin 35 in radial tires, the only ones I know of are bias ply TSLs. If you run a wheel with higher backspacing, you can keep the tire out of the firewall, but it'll hit the frame sooner. You might be able to find a balance there you can live with. If you're still running 4.10 gears, 35's are gonna suck. You'll probably want to regear to 5.29s ASAP. Unless you're jumping your truck, you can trim the fenders to clear the tires just fine.

 

Thanks for the reply. Im probably gonna go 5.13s but need a couple months to save, being in college I just can't drop it all at once. Gotta pace myself and keep money in the account.

Think glass is necessary? I off road a good amount, so tire will get pretty tucked. Want to have a diverse truck that can handle trails but I also cycle the Foxs on washed out roads. Being a guide at Hidden Falls, though, need it to stay somewhat dependable.

 

If you're running stock toyota diffs, there is no 5.13 gear ratio. 4.88 or 5.29 are your options.

I have no experience with glass fenders, I fit my 315/75/16 MTRs with a firewall tub and minor fender trimming. If you're going LT, you may need glass for the additional uptravel, but otherwise the stock bumps will limit you before you really get into the stock fenders. Just trim them a little and you'll clear fine.

 

http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/article/clearance-for-35inch-tires-on-a-tacoma-at-any-lift-height/

 

That's the first article I read, but not having a LT application I wondered if my up travel would still be as drastic.

 

I roll 295/75/16's (34") W stock sheetmetal fenders, plus 1" crawler body lift.
And tho' I had to do some clearence work to fit them
I have not needed to tub the inner fender wells.
But if they were 35" I'd have to think I would need to.
The 34's just barely fit and IMO were challenging enough.

I personally would not run 35's unless I were SAS'd
I do have the 4.88 and 3.4L
But I'm satisfied with the 295's

I did have glass (Frt/Rr) but decided not to go that route
and sold the stuff retaining my original sheet metal instead.

Mostly because once the bedsides are modified
it's difficult to return them back to stock.
And glass is weaker and eventually will crack.

Plus... I don't have one dent in any of the four fenders.
So didn't have the heart to destroy the bedsides during removal.

Good luck in your quest.

 

295/75r16 would be my preferred size, but I want MTs and not a fan of the Hancooks

 

^ understood.

but my Hankooks are MT's

to each their own.

good luck.

 

Yeah, just not a fan of the tread pattern to be 100%. I'll probably cave.

 

Yeah I wasn't real excited about them initially
But they did net good reveiws
And here in SoCal and Moab they work real well for me.

I had the BFG MT's and BFG MTII's prior
and quite honestly... I like these better.
Both wear and traction.

Clean out is acceptable in the mud
tho' I honestly try to avoid that when I can.
Work well in the snow/sand and most every other terra firma.
Rolled very good thru the Moab rocks.

Plus they cost less then my prior MT's.

But hey... I don't mind if ya don't like 'dem

 

Coming from an MTR I've been quite spoiled heh... I might have to try em. Tire punctures and chunking are an issue where I wheel so it's hard to find a good tire and the MTRs have been great

 

Yeah I probably wouldn't change tire mfgr's if yer happy using a specific tire in your environment/terrain.

I like my RT03's but wouldn't suggest to anyone to change
from a tire they feel comfortable with.

But just so you know...
My 'kook RT03's have held up admirably/wear better (chunk less) then did my prior BFG MT's
and I feel the traction is as good if not better then my priors offered.

Only drawback IMO is that the RT03's in the 295 size can only be had in 8 ply.
And only the 'kook 285's could be had in 10 ply.
Maybe they've changed that over the years I do not know.

Regardless the 8 ply tires are much thicker/beefier then the 10 ply BFG's I rolled prior.
And I've yet to puncture or cut one down.
plus... they ride smoother, wear better and are quieter on pavement
then the 10 ply of most other MT type tires I've rolled.

Honestly I don't think there has been a tire that I could not destroy
given the terrain and sharp edged rocks I generally roll on. (Moab excluded)
So it's probable I've just been lucky thus far,
even tho' I've pushed my luck with these more then a few times.

I've read the MTR's have proven themselves to be durable
but I've seen them get cut down on the very same trails that I'm rolling.
And if I remember correctly were fairly expensive to purchase/replace.
Guess that's why I've not pony'd up for them.

So my theory is... if I'm gonna cut down a tire wheelin' anyways.
I'm cool with spending less money on the replacement purchase
if that might occur.

So I'll suppose it will matter if ya have a hazard warranty included
with the original purchase !?
My RT03's have no such warranty as I purchased them
from a source other then say America's or Discount tire stores.

My local America's tire was employed to install mine.
And they balanced well using the lug centric hub adapter
I made them purchase for the install.

It's the only tire shop I'll pay to balance my tires now

Oh and btw... I only paid $ 120 per tire (X5) for my RT03's
Think it was thru myrubberneck.com some years back
and it was likely a one time offer.
They probably cost more in 2016 but I do not know what their cost is currently.

good luck with your selection
and I'll wish you happy trails

 

Two years later bump... got the 35s on

Planning on SASing the truck but these were too good of a deal to pass up on. Still stock piling parts for the SAS so said fuck it

 

Toyo MT’s? One of the heaviest 35” tires out there, good luck to your CVs lol

Looks good though. Have you done any tubbing yet?

 

Don’t remind me broken 13 CVs in the past two years on 31s and 33s.

And nope, doing it tomorrow. Getting some stuff to weld in today

 

Thirteen?? Holy shit

 

Please understand, he's hardcore wheeling.

 

Two OEM, one autozone one CVJ nine O Riley’s

Pro tip, extended travel shocks without a diff drop bind like a mofo