Need Help with Front Diff Drain plug

I was trying to change the front diff oil (2011 TRD OffRoad), however the drain plug is seems to be seized in place and will not budge. I hit it with PB Blaster a few times and still couldn't budge it. I pulled out my impact drill and tried to persuade it to come off that way... that didn't work either. It did however leave a rounded hole where the 10mm hex used to be.

I need some help in getting this dang bolt off so I can change the oil... Is anyone in the Washington DC, Virginia, Maryland willing to help? I'll buy beers....

Thanks

 

Should have tapped on it with a hammer, helps break it free

 

Not close enough to help but I have a couple of tips.

1) Try Kroil or another penetrating lube. Let soak overnight.
2) "Shock" the threads by hitting the bolt with a hammer. Hit it straight on, not trying to turn the bolt.
3) HEAT. Use a torch and cook that penetrating oil into the threads. Watch the fumes!
4) Repeat the cycle as necessary.

As to the stripped allen head: You can try hammering in an oversized Torx driver, or using an easy-out the size of the hex. You might have to drill it out to get an easy-out in there. Normally I'd recommend starting with a left-hand thread drill bits but the bolt is too big.

 

Echoing what TaterHarry said. One of those methods should do the trick. Just make sure to have a replacement bolt on hand once you break that one free.

 

Spiral flute extractor or torx bit. This almost happened to me, but I got lucky.

90341-24014 & 90341-18032 should be the part #'s for the drain and fill plugs.
90430-24003 should be for the new "gasket" washer for drain.
12157-10010 should be for the new crushable steel "gaskets".

Got done typing all of this and realized its for my 2.7 4x4. I would use http://www.toyodiy.com/ to verify part #'s are the same.

 

Jake I did that before I used the PB Blaster and as part of the PB blaster treatment... sprayed wait a few mins, tap with hammer, and repeated a few times

 

Coma,

I've got the washers for the 4.0 all ready and waiting to be installed.

Thanks

 

Tex,
I knew this was going to give me trouble with the rust so I got a replacement bolt and is ready to go in when this one comes off

 

got use a breaker bar those bolts are a bitch to get off, I almost gave up on mine gave one last try luckily it came loose. I would get a hex head set that are larger than the 10mm, like an 11mm or 12mm and pound it into the stripped hole since the 10mm is fubared. the last would be to drill it out. some of these quick oil change places have some sort of extractors for tough stripped nuts/bolts I took a old truck I had with a stripped head on the manual trans to one and the dude got it off in 10 seconds I was so happy I gave him $20 he didn't want anything for helping me out.

 

I found that when they do break free they really break free and let loose as I smashed my thumb under the breaker bar on the concrete. As for getting the old one out, hammer a larger size hex head and then grab your MIG Welder and run around it on the plug, the heat will help loosen it and you will have a totally secure hex at that point too.

 

Make sure you use "Antisieze" when you put the new one in or expect a repeat performance.

 

yes good advice is to wear some mechanix gloves or work gloves when it lets loose smash time

 

I probably wear protective gloves of some sort 95% of the time and naturally I was not when loosening that plug. That plug is strange as it goes from full torque to like zero torque in maybe 1/4 turn.

 

yes I don't really like to do this front diff maintainence cause I know whats coming

 

Yeah, because we all have one of those in our garage Penetrating oil, heat and a good whack is all you really need.

Galvanic corrosion on the threads and between the plug, crush washer and diff is what seizes the bolt. Another trick is to use a mildly strong acid like Phosphoric acid (Coca Cola works in a pinch). The acid breaks down the corrosion that has frozen the parts together. Gloves and goggles are a good idea if you go this route

 

That bolt is a pain, I just did this 2k miles ago. Put a torch to it, once heated use a long breaker bar.

 

Thanks guys.

I just ordered the kroil and I'll pick up an easy out and torx bit sometime next week, so I'm hoping to tackle this the following weekend.

I'll be trying what you guys recommended and I'll see which one works.

Thanks for the input. I'll keep you guys updated.


Tater, what part of sante fe are you located? My inlaws are off of east alameda and I used to drive there every year for christmas

 

I used the correct Allen wrench and my right leg. One swift kick was all that was needed. If I remember correctly the bolt is deep enough to prevent slipping out upon impact. Maybe that's what she said.

 

the socket you need is a 10mm hex not a torx , probably can get one at harborfreight like this, a torx is probably why your bolt got tore up in the first place if that's what your usinghttp:// and