Rear Diff Leaking-- Now E-locker?

Hello All:

Looking for thoughts/ advice.

The rear diff on my 2001 appears to be leaking.

Is that necessarily an ominous development?

If the whole thing needs to be replaced, is it worth it to swap in an e-locker? (I do take the truck off-road) If so, ballpark, how much will that cost? ( I don't have the skills to do it myself.)

This truck is my baby, subject of a long slow build, gonna keep it forever and already plan to put more money into it.

Thanks for any input you can offer.

Regards,

Tom

 

Pictures of the leak/leak area, better description of amount of fluid lost, etc.

It may be a simple seal. But we need to know more.

 

Yeah.... Excellent point. Will take some tomorrow morning and post them. Thanks.

 

Updated with few pictures. Driveway pics shows accumulation over about 10 days.

 

Looks like the housing is rusted out and porous. You aren't going to want to hear the answer which is to replace the axle if it can't be ground down and welded.

 

Yeah thats no bueno. A few options are hacking off the cover, cleaning everything back to good metal and welding a new back on....GL finding someone to do that.

I just went through this over the early summer, heres what gave mine away



I ended up finding an e-locker complete axle on ebay in CA and had it shipped for $250, axle cost $500. But, I did have to do all new bearings, seals, and rear brakes so cost went up some. I'd say your looking at anywhere from $1000 upwards, a little less if your lucky

But its so nice once its in

 

Forgot to mention, the e- locker will add cost because you need a wiring harness/ switch which run from the cab back to the e locker motor. The other issue is sometimes the locker motor can be FUBARed, requiring disassembling and cleaning or replacing if it wont come back to life. These are all things you need to research before taking the lot to a mechanic, I can see them pulling their hair out over what I went through

Though, now that I have it, I wouldn't do it any other way

 

Gentlemen, thank you for the quick replies.

Well I guess I'll start looking for an e-locker, hopefully a complete axle like you found Nate.... ( you're in MA? me too... Worcester. Guess that explains why both our rear ends rusted out.... and my frame.... Got a new one.)

Regards,

Tom

 

Yessir, Masshole born and raised! new frame for me too! good luck with finding one, be sure to post up questions or anything and also to get a VIN with the complete axle if you go that route, had problems with new part fitment until I realized not all 1st gen axles are equal.

 

Thanks Nate. Will start searching and post back with updates ( and lots of questions I'm sure.... But I've already found the e-locker swap adventure threads and started reading.)

 

Living in the brine belt I keep after my truck each spring.

Then I guess if you don`t do your own work you have no reason to be under the truck.

A simple cleaning and painting will prevent this

If you were a little closer I would love to buy your rusted rear .

 

Right here in this forum is your much cheaper and every bit as effective answer.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rusted-diff-cover-repair-part-1.449412/#post-13160755

 

Wow. OP took a beating in that thread. Still, intriguing idea.

 

Yuck.

I think the Barnes cover is the cheaper/quicker idea, assuming you get a fabrication shop to install it reasonably. But to chop and weld your still looking at a few hours of labor. Keep looking on CL and the TW forums for a used axle. Putting an Elocker in will definitely be an improvement.

In the meantime i would get a wire brush on an angle grinder and blast all the corrosion off. The cover is thicker than sheet-metal and people have welded the pinholes in the past and depending where it leaks you can throw some JB weld on it and paint it up for awhile.

 

OK, I'm already in over my head.... Need more advice. Apologize in advance for my deep lack of relevant mechanical knowledge.

Want to go with an e-locker.

They all seem to have 4:30 ratio. I've been researching, but haven't yet figured out the ratio on my existing non-locker diff. (2001 2.7L auto 4x4). If the ratios are different, can I still do the swap?

Researching part availability/ prices...... Stuff seems expensive:

1) 4:30 e-locker diff $599.99, plus Trail Gear Rock Assault Housing for e-locker $359.10, total $959.09 + shipping

vs.

2) Complete 2002 4:30 e-locker rear end $1789.99 including shipping.

Nether includes wiring harness.

Reading e-locker swap threads, a little overwhelmed.

Thanks for any advice.

Regards,

Tom

PS @capetaco12 : Haha... I'm a little afraid to do that because I'm afraid the corrosion IS the cover now.

 

If you have a 4x4 you need to have the same ratio in the front and rear. If you have a 2wd you can put what every ratio you want in. Check your door tag and see have ratio you have if its a 4x4. IMO call local scrap yards/ car-part and such maybe send @mach1man001 a pm and see if he has anything in stock.

Remember with the TG housing not everything is plug and play. Your going to need to weld on the leaf spring brackets, you will need to attach or delete your LSVP and ebrake hardware and such. Wont work with ABS.

I would still suspect that even as bad as it looks its mostly surface rust with a couple pin holes.

 

Thanks. Will give the housing a go this weekend.

Its the "not plug and play' part that scares me.

 

Just let me know if you need any help

 

@mach1man001 : Thanks. May take you up on that.

Just decoded my door tag: 8" 4.56, no limited slip. So I'm SOL for e-locker without re-gearing front end? Interwebz say 4.56 locker exists, impossible to find.

Air locker?

 

way easiest way to fix that was to take to a decent weld shop, drain grease, leave the plug out to keep pressure from building up from the heat being generated internally while welding,,, grind the pin hole/holes by small groove,,,, heli-arc the groove,,, done in about 15 minutes.
you better make sure you flushed all that "grit" out of the carrier,,, you'll be doing bearings or worse if not.