Long Travel BS Thread

Hmm odd.. Seems like most people have the flange one. Looks like the washer one is longer
Just ordered both ball joints and 8 flange bolts. Came out to 200 shipped

 

some pix coming to me from the DTF shop!! its coming out awesome i cant wait to see it with some legs on it! the truck will def be going back up there some time next year for a engine cage and to have his rear kit installed

 

Desert season is coming up, good time for someone to buy my truck!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1993-race-truck-prerunner.414332/

 

Guys give me the low down on trailing arms. Compared to like a universal 3 link kit with DOM tubes and stuff... trailing arms are just a super strong set of lower links so you can mount coilovers to, correct?

I'm trying to plan out my rear suspension... It really doesn't seem that hard... Just a lot of labor. Was a PITA to the do the 63 swap... shoulda just done this.

Basically here is what I got:

• Plate the frame
• Weld in some trailing arms (unsure of what length still... 48"?)
• Make a crossmember and weld in upper link
• Panhard bar so it can't move side to side
• Build simple low pro bed cage and throw some 14" Dual rates thru the bed
• And err bumpstops. Simple right?

 

Sounds like a Saturday worth of work.

 

The most important part of all of that will be designing everything to have the proper geometry(anti squat, ic, ect.)

I'd recommend buying a set of weld it yourself links from Trac performance. His are fairly low profile,strong, cnc bent, astectically pleasing, and affordable.

 

Lol yeah I need to revive our PM...

Yeah... I think that shouldn't be too bad. I mean as far as axle positioning goes...

Yeah I'm not sure whether or not to go with a vendor here or try to just build off of ruffstuff...
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/3LINKKT.html
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R1760.html
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R1982.html

They degree angle stuff does confuse me...

 

should make a list of what do you want your truck to do. im doing a short coarse 4 link on mine. i would do trailing arms but thats more $$$ just for trailing arms and work to cut stuff out to get the shocks close to the cab than what i wanna do to it. i can still pull a clean 18" of travel with a 18" coil/bypass. more then enough for me and what i wanna do with the truck. i dont want spring under so this is the next best thing but not as pricey as full blown links and still better control then leafs. but each to their own, your truck so do what you wanna do with it and can afford to do

 

RuffStuff uses a bushing in the link where it mounts to your frame. You can angle it if you need to have your links kick out to the outside of your axle. Guys on here like using uniball instead so you can be a bit more relaxed when welding frame mounts.

 

You don't want a bushing on your links. It will apply pretty heavy twisting forces to your frame. @nfs257 used the ruff stuff links on his build, they just swapped out the bushing cups for uniball cups. No extra work needed.

I designed my whole set up prior to purchasing anything. I'd read everything you can on linked suspension geometry long travel and race car related. Coming up with perfect geometry on paper is easy, but when working around stock frames and factory stuff their will be comprimises. The better you understand the ways geometry affects your handling characteristics, the better you can decide how to compromise your ideal design to fit your packaging needs

 

I'd also recommend wobble stoppers with the uniballs

 

Just started my ford 9" build/parts gathering lol, ruffstuff bare housing....CHECK!, friend at Fearless gear building me a third, 35 spline with a Detroit and I'm broke for now haha

 

Just throwing these out here.

Glassworks short bed flat tops. Originally got them from @DTFtacoma 2-3 years ago in a package deal. Friend never mounted them and sold truck.

$250

 

more updates!! @DTFtacoma is killin it! these pictures just make me so excited lol

 

my update isn't nearly as cool.

 

Are you going to be back in az anytime soon?

 

Yes but they sold today.

 

I was under the impression that a 4 link isn't ideal because the gas tank gets in the way... Unless you're talking about super short uppers like in the rear of a JK?

Gotcha.

Gotcha. Uniballs always seem better...

Ok so this is what I don't get. What do you mean come up with a perfect geometry on paper? I don't really understand what you could do different.

The trailing arms/lower links just fall where they fall. I was thinking I would tack them in place with the leafs in place if they don't get in the way. They just hold the axle the proper difference from t-case so the driveline is happy, correct?

Then with the upper link I just need to place it where it twists the axle to the same angle to the driveshaft as the angle coming off the t-case, correct?

Then I mount the pan hard so the axle stays centered.

Cycle, make sure the driveshaft isn't going to fuck the t-case, Make sure all the joints are happy, and then bam figure out what size coils I need.

Wobble stoppers?